Messages

KB

They only deal with emails, so I sent one out with my gauge info. I will see what they say.

Thanks again
Mike

Thanks KB
    Yes I did see them. My gauges are the smaller ones not the blue line ones. I am going to give them a call today and see if that sender would work with my gauge.

Thanks for the help

Mike

I have a Sun Water Temp Gauge that I bought new in the early 80's. I have used it on the first go around on my 50 F1. The truck has been torn apart since 85. I lost the original temp sending unit that went with the gauge. With a lot of googling and YouTubing I am finding out that a original sending unit or replacement is a unicorn or if you find one it is $150/$250

I really don't want to get a different gauge because I have a dash insert built for the truck and it has a Sun Speedometer and water, oil and fuel gauges all matching.

I guess I have to find a temp sending unit that matches my gauges resistance from cold to hot, by hooking a sender up to my gauge with the sender in water heating up on the stove with a thermometer.

Where do I start? I mean how many sending units will I have to buy to get close?

Has anyone here went through this that can give me some pointer?

Thanks Mike

Thanks Enjenjo
I will be putting a adjustable one on.
Mike

Working on brakes on my 50 F1.
It has GM front disc brakes. 72 Monte Carlo
Ford drum brakes rear 9" rear. Narrowed rear. Large tires and wheels (wide)
Is there any reason I should put a adjustable proportioning valve on this set up or will a non-adjustable one work?
Thanks Mike

I am using a clutch fan. Can a spacer be used to get the fan closer to the radiator or will the weight of the clutch, fan and spacer put to much strain on the water pump?
Thanks Mike

Mechanical Fan

I am working on a 1950 F1.
If I have a full fan shroud can the fan blades be 4" to 5" away from the from the radiator or does it need to be closer.
Thanks Mike 

I have to tell you what I did, it's been over a year.
I put a mechanical fan on, built a full shroud and put some openings in the side panels. This all helped a lot. The motor is staying cooler an and I am sure the oil is cooler also so I have more oil pressure. All is good. Thanks for your help.
37 Plymouth 2dr sedan slant back.   

36 Ford Coupe

Tony there is a guy on Youtube that puts one on his new car trailer.
Search
"Mortske gets a new car trailer. Custom winch and spare tire bracket fabrication"

Helped a friend put a power disc brake kit on his 72 chevelle. Had the same problem as you. Had to adjust the small adjusting screw in between the master and the booster. Works great. It wasn't allowing the master to make a full stroke to grab brake fluid.

No tach, but idle around 800rpms warm 5lbs and cold 50lbs

55mph around 2000rpms 30psi warm

I have owned the motor for years. I bought a car with it in it. Took it out and built a new motor for the car.

Mid 70's 350 Chevy. Nothing special, probably all stock. I have never had heads or pan off.

10/40 oil

Cold start oil pressure is 50lbs

When the motor gets to 185/190 degrees oil pressure is 5lbs

Motor sounds good. No knocks or clatters or smoke.

oil pressure is from a new gauge set, electric.

What do you think?

Would a new oil pump help?

Maybe oil pick/up came off the pump

Any info would be great.
Thanks Mike

I get lit up on my blaster all the time. Right where my arm goes though the metal cabinet