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Messages - Coupe

#1
I don't know if this is any help but I vented mine from the filler neck and ran a 3/8" tube UP and made a loop and then down and out the bottom. as long as the loop is above the tank there shouldn't be any spillage.
they sell shut off kits for the pump.
???
#3
Rodder's Roundtable / spliced wires
May 14, 2009, 02:03:04 AM
Quote from: "enjenjo"I hate to tell you this, but if power was applied with the wires hooked up wrong, there is a very good chance the computer is junk.

Yeah, I know. i'm sending it to Arizona Speed & Marine tomorrow to have it checked out. this is probably a $900 mistake if I have to replace the telorvek unit too. Im taking off to Oregon in my 37 tomorrow so I wont be able to work on it for a while but at least when i get back there will be new parts to work with.
#4
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: spliced wires
May 13, 2009, 08:38:57 PM
Quote from: "WZ JUNK"
Quote from: "Coupe"will wire splicing of sensor wires  affect computers reading of sensors.  I have a ramjet 350 wired with a dz telorvek panel and some of the wires were accidentally cut. now i am getting code readings of both high and low temp sensor readings, both high and low tps sensor readings and low voltage map sensor readings.

How did you splice?  With mechanical or solder?  I think they need to be soldered because they are usually low voltage and there might be some loss with a mechanical splice.  Also check for a good grounds in the system.

My thoughts.

John

Long store short: I inherited the problem and what I found was the Telorvek panel was installed horizontally with the wires exiting to the left of the unit behind the driver seat. When it was manufactured the unit sits vertically with the wires coming out of the bottom. now the simple mistake i found was that the terminal cover with the numbers showing the placement of the wires is oriented originally from the factory with the numbers facing into or towards the center of the unit but when the number strip is removed there is no terminal numbering on the unit to follow. picking up the terminal cover the numbers 1 -25 are read left to right BUT when the unit is installed horizontally the number cover correctly installed should read upside down!
consiquently they thought that the unit was wired incorrectly and cut and spliced wires inside of the unit. A very simple mistake but it has set back the build nearly a year. (many other factors too)
I disambled the unit and re-spliced the wires mechanically. i am still getting codes 14/15 - 21/22 and 34 which all lead to a common  ground problem but I have cleaned up all the ground connections. At this point i figure it must be in the box where the splices are. I think the next opportunity I will open the unit and solder the connections and if that dosn't take care of the problem I may have to buy another unit. being so hacked up, I dont feel it would be roadworthy enough for my sister in law to drive long distance.  this has been a real hair raising ordeal for me because i only get a chance to work on it one day every few months. Living in Oregon and the car is in SoCal but I want to thank all of you for the input. I havn't used this site much (4 or 5 times) but I do read a lot of posts and I have to say this is the most informative site i have ever been on. Thanks again
#5
Rodder's Roundtable / spliced wires
May 13, 2009, 10:38:38 AM
will wire splicing of sensor wires  affect computers reading of sensors.  I have a ramjet 350 wired with a dz telorvek panel and some of the wires were accidentally cut. now i am getting code readings of both high and low temp sensor readings, both high and low tps sensor readings and low voltage map sensor readings.
#6
Rodder's Roundtable / need electrical help
August 01, 2008, 11:36:02 AM
Quote from: "enjenjo"With the proper tool, a Weatherpac connector comes apart pretty easily, should be easy to check.

Thanks, i will check the grounds that may be connected and try to pull the weather pack apart and let you know what i found next week.
#7
Rodder's Roundtable / need electrical help
August 01, 2008, 01:16:16 AM
Quote from: "enjenjo"The sensor will have continuity all the time. But you have to measure the resistance. The computer reads the output voltage of the sensor, and compares that to the input voltage to determine engine temperature. You have to check it with an Ohm meter that is designed to read very low resistance.

My best guess is a faulty sensor, they are easily damaged by overtightening them.

I checked out the Sensor and it was within specs. i even put in another sensor to confirm it was not the problem. the continuity i am speaking about is in the plug when it is disconnected from the sensor and the ECM.
#8
Rodder's Roundtable / need electrical help
July 31, 2008, 11:59:36 PM
Hi, i am new to this website and this is new to me as i am not as computer literate as some. a little about myself. Born and raised in Southern California and now that my kids have grown up and moved out I have been spending the last few years building  a 1937 Chevy Coupe and going to car shows all over. i have been helping my Brother put together his 48  Chevy Sedan Deliery up until three months ago when he passed away. i am trying to help  complete the car with a couple of friends as a kind of memorial and now that i don't have him to bounce problems and questions off of i am in need of a little help.
It has a Ramjet 350, 700R trans and we are just getting the engine running but it has a really hard cold start problem. if i can keep it running long enough to warm up it seems to run and start fine.  it has a code 15 (engine temp high) when it is cold. i have traced the wires  of the ECT back to the ECM with no apparent nicks or pinches but when a take a continuity test from either of the two pins in the weather pack plug back to the J plug i get continuity on both pins. could the wires in the weather pack plug at the sensor be touching inside? i really want to get this problem behind me and get on to body mods and such. I don't have everyday access to the car as it is about 70 miles away and need to get it running to move it around..
ANY electrical help will be appreciated as I have pestered Arizona Speed & Marine enough