Messages

Have you settled on a policy yet?

This issue has to be one of the most frustrating for those who like to use their rods everyday like myself.

Grundys recently added a daily driver policy which used the Hartford Grp as the underwriter/carrier.  I was told by the rep that I would have to have all my vehicles on the policy which is a non-starter for other reasons.  I also found out they do not offer this product in 6 states of which Texas is one.

I set up an agreed value policy through SAFECO.  It requires an appraisal and pictures.  I think it was breaking new ground for them or at least for the agency I was going through.  There are no restrictions regarding trailering that I have noticed.

In my experience the specialty car insurance outfits ignore daily use as it exposes them to too much risk.  They are missing an opportunity in my opinion.

I just replaced the GM HEI unit with a Mallory HEI and have noticed an improvement in the performance of the motor.  Is there any other tuning I should considered for general street use?  The Mallory came with a allen wrench and extra springs but very little information as to why or when they should be used.  I am assuming the allen wrench is for adjusting the vacuum advance but I can find no information on this.

The 350 I now have int he truck is running stock dish type pistons (+.030).  A friend has a set of freshly built never run 305 heads he would like to sell me for $100.  I know the 305 heads have a small intake valve and a small chamber.  Would using these cause any problems?  I would like to keep the compression to 9.5 or less.  Any ideas on what it would be in this particular combination?

I am driving right by there on my way to Good Guys this Friday.  I will try to locate the yard and see about that two door sedan.

We ran our generator for about 10 hours a day to keep the */frezrs cold and to power other items.  No sense listening to it at night as the temps were cool.  We had gas staged and full tanks in all vehicles.  I filled up a 1st gen camaro tank I was using in the 54 as a bulk container and siphoned from it and the new 16 gallon tank in the 54 when my initial supply was gone.  Supplies were tight for the first three days but was available thereafter.  Highest price I paid was $3.49 and it is now $3.29 for 87 oct at some stations.

No house damage at all for us.  I had my storm boards up on the downstairs glass which probably saved some of them from flying debris from the trees.  Lost some good size limbs but I had just pruned the big oaks the week before the storm so only damage was less than what it could have been.  Some neighbors lost some junk trees (japanese yupon or sweat gums) but most healthy pines and oaks made it through.

The areas east of the city are the last ones to get attention from the power crews so they may be out until next week or longer.

Well I can finally see the light(s) again and am back to taking electricity at the flip of a switch for granted.

I can finally turn off the generator and put away the camping gear.

The experience would have been more uncomfortable without having some basic equipment on hand such as:
Generator (need to convert it to run on natural gas)
Propane stove
Gas Grill with side burner
Extra propane (bulk and small cannisters)
Propane lanterns
Flashlights with good batteries
Battery operated fans
multi-outlet strips with surge protection
Heavy gauge extension cords
Chainsaw with bar lube and pre-mix fuel
Large heavy tarps (just in case of roof damage)
TV with rabbit ears since cable is out typically
Extra drinking water in gallon jugs
Good Igloo coolers that hold ice for 3-4 days


Things to get before next storm:
Quieter generator (tri-fuel would be best)
battery operated lamps (2-3)
better chainsaw
Wire in a permanent back-feed system to house
larger gas cans

Being prepared made the 9 days of doing without easier than it would have been. We were blessed that we did not suffer more damage.

If you live anywhere that could experience power outages due to storms or human error/stupidity, which is just about everywhere, you might want to start collecting some of the equipment listed and putting it away just in case.

At least I had something to keep myself occupied after the storm.  I swapped out transmissions on the 54.  Just a few minor issues to resolve and the truck is back on the road.  Do not know yet if making it to the Texas Goodguys meet is in the cards but we will see.

I will be installing the Fatman IFS kit on the 58 in the near future but reading through the material provided and various posts on the internet I am hoping to find someone who has installed such a kit and can identify how they located the axle centerline.  

The 58 came to me without any front running gear.  

Is there a "landmark" on the frame or a dimension from the front of the frame or cab mount that someone can share with me?

Would like to see pics of your installation also.

I either stumped everyone with this question or nobody gives a hoot.  Probably the later so I will share the solution I have found.

The lockup feature in the trans is activated by pump pressure so as long as 12v is provided to the solenoid in the trans the converter will lock up. The problem is getting it to unlock when needed to keep the engine from chugging to a stop.  The parts needed to interrupt the 12V are readily available from the parts house.

The required parts are:
GM #25524845 - Brake Switch
GM # 14032087 - Vacuum Switch
GM # 14020691 - Vacuum Check Valve

The price of these AC Delco parts from the dealer was quoted at $107 but I sourced them from XL Auto Parts for $58.  When you look at them you feel you were overcharged at that rate for what they are.  You could probably scrounge these same parts from the salvage yard if you can find any mid 80s GM truck or passenger car that ran this tranny.

The installation is very simple.  The vacuum is taken from the ported connection on the carb located on the right side of the carb base (Edelbrock 1406).  This is plumbed to the check valve which is then plumbed to the vacuum switch.  The 12v switched power is wired to one side of the vac switch, then from the other side of the switch to the brake switch from there it is wired to the trans connection.  

The lockup will now deactivate either through brake application or low vacuum caused by deceleration.

Should be pulling the old trans tonight and stabbing the new on in this weekend during the storm.  

Hope this helps someone else who chooses to use the TH350C at a later date.

Well the 41 turned out to be less than advertised.  The main frame rails were good but the cross members had filled with dirt and rotted from the inside out.  The car was complete with all stainless and trim which was impressive but every piece of it would have needed refurbishment.  This was a Special Deluxe Coupe.

For those who may need the information in the future the VIN tag is located on the passenger side floorboard just in front of the seat.  Right where the floor rots away.  I found the remains of the tag but the VIN was illegible and with a "lost" title it would be a real PITA to get clear papers.

I passed as it would have been as big or bigger a resurrection than the 54 was.  

The car is really massive.  I think the 39 and older body styles fit my need better.

I have a Fatman IFS I was going to put in my 58 truck but will see if I can use it in the 41 with a model specific crossmember.

Another Question

Where is the VIN located on a 1941 Chevrolet Coupe?

Is it the engine number?  If so where on the block is that located.

The owner will need to file for a lost title unless he happens to find it.

I am going to inspect a 41 coupe this evening.  It is an original car with a straight body supposedly.

Has anyone here built one of these before?  Any particular issues I should look for or just the normal stuff?  

What is the preferred front and rear suspension upgrades for this model?  Subframe (front or rear steer), IFS or upgrade original?

I had a TH350C (lockup) rebuilt and am now trying to identify the vacuum switches needed to initiate the lockup.  I already have the brake switch needed for this application.  Can anyone provide a part number for this part?  I could not identify it on any of the FLAPS websites.  

The wiring scheme I plan on using is 12v to the vacuum switch in series to the brake switch which is wired to the solenoid switch on the trans.  This would activiate the lockup upon reaching a predetermined constant RPM and disconnect it at the application of the brakes.  Please advise if I have this backassward.

The system would be the same as used on 80 model G bodies or corvettes according to the information I have.

This is being installed in my 54 Chevy pickup.

This link shows how I installed the bear claws in my 54 Chevy.  Hope some of this may help you out with your installation.

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/19808817

I am trying to find the hood halves/sides to a 36 Chevy like the one in the attached pic.  I am wanting to transplant one or both of the vents into the hood sides of my 54.

If anyone has a lead on this please shoot me a message.

I could not find that tire size available from any of the normal outlets.  You might try looking at Coker Tire though.

The widest tire I could find in a 15 inch is a 265/70.  Seems to be a pretty common size.  The width difference would be about a .25 inch and the height may be different but it would not change the way the vehicle sits very dramatically.  

Hope he finds a solution to his problem.