Messages

If this pans out as promised it sounds like a bargain.  Description wise it sounds like functionally the same as the MSD Atomic system I put on the '36 roadster...................but for about 1/2 of list price!  Gotta love competition in the marketplace....

Looking further down in the replacement tube that Frank referenced there is an alternative supplier, http://www.amazon.com/WYZM-4-Pack-Double-end-Fluorescent-Replacement/dp/B00ZTU1SW0/ref=pd_cp_60_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1N49FX46QX5E8WC5EBM8

This works out to $37.50 ish each in the four pack, $35 and $30 ish in the 10 and 20 pack.  Makes it competitive with the fixture replacement.  As time goes bye the prices will probably continue to drop.  Now I wish I hadn't bought all those NOS magnetic ballasts.......

I went through similar exercise late last year.  The big box guys and the local hardware stores all only stock electronic ballasts rather than the older magnetic type.  I found a supplier in Florida on ebay and bought several of the magnetic type (NOS) that should get me through a few years more.  I contacted the manufacturer of the electronic ballasts (GE I think) and they said you can't mix electronic and magnetic ballasts on the same circuit, so eventually it's going to take a system change out when the supply of old stock magnetics runs out, if it hasn't already.

Love it!!!  Hope you enjoy years of piling on the miles.

I'm very much like you Frank, generally happy and often BIN stuff.  I do play the bid for it game, often after a bit of back and forth to determine the real vs. repro thing, or to tighten up definitions such as "good", or "excellent".  Occasionally stumble across something listed just a bit off which cuts way down on the competition...........not as easily done as in the past though.

Last month got an unexpected bonus.  I'm not sure what triggered it, but there was a "10% up to $100 max" discount for many of the things I was looking for.  Ended up getting $100 off a set of wheels.  The seller got full credit, and I got the discount, so ebay made up the difference.  Like I said, not sure what triggered that, but I took it.

I used to sell a fair bit of stuff there, but since they started charging fee for the shipping cost as well it's swung the cost curve out of my happy zone.  I understand why they did it, it just doesn't work for me anymore.  I now just sell on Craigslist locally, generally get my price, don't have to jump through the packaging and rate quoting hoops.  You see lots of * online about ebay and C/L, or maybe the buyers, but like I tell folks, there were C/L flakes even before C/L started.  Just like there have always been chronic whiners.

I had the same problem until some time within the past year.  Each time I tried to respond to a thread I had to re-log in, check the box, but it would never stick.  Next time I came to the site it considered me a visitor.  I can't remember what I did exactly, but it had something to do with logging in on a different page, perhaps the main page, but whichever it was NOT from the Forum index page.  Since then it has recognized me every time I return.

Another positive comment about the MSD Atomic FI.  If you do a Google/Bing search for tech articles there's plenty to learn.

Several things motivated me to go with the Atomic.  I first learned about the system about 3 years ago at SEMA show.  Approaching the MSD outside display I saw a familiar car........Jim Shelton's burgundy '32 roadster.  Jim was there, so a conversation ensued.  He had been tapped by MSD to field test the then newly produced system.  They had heard he really drove his car and felt it would be a good test vehicle for the street rod slice of the market.  They were right, he's nearing 100k miles on the beast he first got on the road just over 10 years ago.  He's got roughly 10k miles with the Atomic system.  After roughly 3 years of use he still raves about it.  The only changes he's made since initial install were to load software updates, some additional tuning tweaks to see if he could coax more mpg than the self learning had provided, and to install a fuel return circuit that had initially not been done as this system can operate without a return line.  

Some of the positives that I liked were that TPS, MAP and IAT along with the ECU are all a part of the throttle body.  You end up with a very simple seven wire pigtail that hides easily.  That connects to a smallish (about the size of a cell phone) power/control module that will supply the O2 sensor, as well as other options such as fan.  To that will be connected the even smaller "tuning" module with display screen, no laptop necessary.  We mounted the latter two items under the passenger kick panel, though the display could be unplugged and put in the glove box or wherever.  Since we're in the final throws of assembly and upholstery I don't have a lot of driving data, we've probably only got about 3 miles of use, and maybe a total of 1-2 hrs of messing with the settings, mostly just to see what if anything can be noticed.  It idles nice, starts readily, and for a new installation by non techno geeks works very well just about out of the box.  I'm using an MSD plug and play distributor, but no 6al or similar box.  We could add those to give the ECU and controller more things to do, but so far it's worked well as is.

Some of the other systems are more complex which could be good if you're really into the electronics thing and think you might want to get more involved in the options that affect various tuning solutions.  I'm somewhat technophobic so opted for a more simple solution.  If mine performs anything like Jim brags about his, I'll be tickled.

"Kocinski, ............................ said he just did what he had to do."  Yes he did!
I agree with mom.........."he's one awesome dude!"

This might give you an idea. It's a '36 which is, to the overall population of early Ford enthusiasts, slightly more popular, and it's a "slant back" again, usually more in demand. It's a complete, running, car which some value because they can see quickly how complete it is.  If it's as described it should go quickly, but it hasn't so far: http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133632

Some good tips so far, just to add a couple more possibilities.  If allowed to freeze with water/coolant in them they'll split along or just above the pan rail.  The best way to make a buck on these is pulling the heads for sure, and the pan as a bonus, especially if it doesn't turn.  The max safe over bore is .125 if all is well with the cylinder wall thickness, the closer it's been over bored to that number the lower the value.

I just sold an 8ba that looked very good in the crack zones noted above (did a good clean up for buyer inspection), got $425.  It was standard bore, good valves, and good overall appearance, and I caught a buyer when he was ready/needy.  When I've bought in recent years I wouldn't give more than $100 if I couldn't take off the heads, and then it had to turn freely and not look like it was abused in use or storage (whatever that means, too much to explain).  Some sellers not in the know would complain that it "lowered the value" to take off the heads.  If I couldn't convince them a serious flathead buyer wouldn't buy one without being able to inspect for the common cracking they weren't going to sell.  Making it easier for the buyer is to your advantage.

59ab engines top the list for desirability and can clear $500 if they inspect well, and as mentioned the 4" strokes are very desirable.  21 studs are a mixed bag.  I've got a nice '37 for sale right now that's .060 over and no visible cracks, selling complete with all accessories.  For the buyer interested, mostly the restoration guys, but also a few hard core early style rodders, it is a bit more desirable because of the insert mains/rods.  But it's a more limited market than for the 24 studs so I expect it will take longer for a real buyer to find my ad.  I'm asking $500 and have gotten some nibbles but no pics of Ben yet.  Like I said, you've got to find your buyer with these, or bomb the price and let someone think they've "stolen" it.

Sold my '36 3w from the HAMB about a year ago, not familiar with your car enough to know if it fits there.  In the past have used a few of the usual suspects for online ads with Auto Trader being the most effective.  HR Hotline seems to aim more at the higher end type street rods so might be a good one if the style fits........I got crickets on the one I did there 8-10 years ago.

Wire transfer (bank to bank) is the best way, or least susceptible to fraud if you prefer, to transfer the money.  FedEx the title after payment clears as a courtesy to the buyer........it helps them feel they got something for their money sooner.

Again, depending on the style of the car, be prepared for foreign interest.  I had just over 20 what I would consider serious interested parties in my car...............2/3 were from oversees with half those from Oz or NZ.  They're buying blind, so be prepared to send lots of good pics and lots of good written descriptions.  I encouraged them to hire a pro to look the car over, but for whatever reason(s) there was resistance to that.

I had to do a bit of clearancing on the Dodge because of wheel backspace, but on the early 90s Chev and GMC (only 2" drop) I didn't have any issue.  I did use the custom lower A arm on a 72 about 20 or so years ago, but that was more because I believed that particular setup was the best choice at the time not for concern with wheel clearance.

I've used Belltech kits on three trucks and they just work great.  Even with the deeper drops needing the C notch (nothing to be scared of) which requires bed removal, two guys can get the whole thing done in a decent days work (with allowances for alignment).  On the Ram I did last I also added auxiliary airbags on the rear to retain load carrying ability, worked great.  On the Dodge I did the Ram Slam (4 front, 6 rear), the only hitch I hit was I had to go down a size on the front tire as the stocker hit the fender liner on compression.

As remarkable as that young man is his parents aren't slouches either.  A lot of life lessons could be learned from them.........

Another user who hasn't had all the problems that a lot of folks claim they've had.  But as others here have noted you need to cover your *.

In addition to ebay, i use it for sales on other sites; e.g. HAMB classified.  Some folks don't like the 3 or so percent fee, but that's consistent with small transaction credit card processing fees, so just price accordingly.

To put a finer point on the above suggestions for a stand alone account attached to the paypal account, when you click the box "Agree to terms....." (which I'd bet nearly no one reads all the way) you agree to allow Paypal to reach into your account and take money when they deem it necessary.  I've not seen any credible evidence, or had experience, that they do it randomly, just when there's a dispute between buyer and seller.  If you move the money out promptly they've got nothing to grab.  If this seems like a double clutch to you, imagine a dishonest buyer who you ship a perfectly legit something to, but they dispute it anyway attempting to get it for "free".  Ebay/Paypal will only arbitrate as far as they can, and if both parties appear "honest" then they call it a toss up, and will most often attempt to "protect" the buyer.......honest party loses.  Doesn't happen very often so those who choose to play don't get burned often enough to have poisoned the well.  But if you clear the account you maintain a margin of control.