Messages

Does anyone on here know of a CHEVY rear differential that is about 54-56" wide outside of drum to outside of drum for my '34 roadster?

I have a Chey rear out of an '80's car,I don't know if it's from a Camaro or Monte Carlo (it might even be out of an S10) in my '34 Ford roadster now and it measures about 61" wide and I need something a little narrower with leaf springs.
I want to stick with a Chevy rear because I have a new set of AR Torque Thrusts with the Chevy bolt pattern for the back and I want to use them but I hate the way they stick out.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give,Glenn.

I apologise if this has been answered before or is a dumb question,but here goes:
I have a Gibbons fiberglas roadster with smooth running boards and I want to know if I can put the rubber covers over the glas w/o clearance problems. Those boards seem to fit pretty tight against the fenders and I'm wondering if there is enough clearance to get the boards back on once I've put the rubber covers on them.
If so, can anyone offer advice on what to be careful about?
Thanks in advance,Glenn.

Thanks,Vance & Tom. I think I'm going to like the car. I picked it up in late October and haven't driven it much yet because the weather in northen New England in Nov. is just not roadster weather.

It was built in Pa. and it looks like an older build with drum brakes all around and a dropped tube axel up front with a 4 bar. it's got parallel leaf springs out back with a GM 10 bolt. It's a Gibbons body on what looks like an original 33/34 frame. It ride,steers and stops great ,so I can't wait to start putting some miles on it.

I wish I could find out more about it.All of my past rods have come with a history ,so it's kind of a quest to get more info on this one. I'm more of a traditional rodder but this car was such a sweet deal,I couldn't pass it up. It won't take much to get it looking more traditional looking but the SBC with all the billet on it will just have to be covered up with a full hood to make me happy.
Glenn.

I haven't been on the RRT in quite awhile, but now I'm back with a new ride. Here's my '34 Roadster. Gibbons body,SBC,older build.
It has a Pa. vin tag.

Does anyone know anything about this car? I couldn't get much info from the guy I got it from.

Thanks in advance.
Glenn

I just got a note from Bob Drake saying that they are working on these handles but they are bareky in the design stage,so they won't be availible for awhile.
Thanks for your help. I have a '34 3 window with the correct handles on it and I think that's what we'll use on the two '32's. I'm sure the modifications aren't very difficult.

I have about 20 VHS tapes full of car videos that I took when our car club first started in 1990 and they are priceless now. People in my club are always borrowing them. It can be a real tear * to see friends and cars who have passed on in all of their rolling glory.
I'm glad I have them.

Does anyone make exterior door handles with locks in them for '32 Ford sedans and 5 window  coupes?
I heard a rumor last year that Vintique was going to be making them,but I cannot find them anywhere.

Any help would be most appreciated.

These little batteries are also sold by Performance Distributors but are more expensive there. I had one in my '34 for eight years and it worked great even when I drained it down pretty bad. It finally quit this past autumn and I bought a new one.

That was one of the best shows that Speed has had on in a long time. I always like seeing Dave Despain  doing what he does best.

I voted for change but then I couldn't think of any to suggest .
I don't post here much because I spend way too much time on the HAMB as it is.
Now I've found a snowplow site and with winter coming and the hotrod put away,I'll probably spend too much time there also.
I think the format is fine and I think if you break the subject matter into various topics,some people will not view every topic.
so why the heck did I vote for change ?? I'll shut up now......

Ford 351W crate motor w/ 10 to 1. and a Comp cam. I always run 93.Never tried lower octane.
Heck my v6 S 10 pick up pings on 87 octane but runs great on 89.Go figure....

It sounds like the ignition module is bad. They only need 9 volts,hence the resistor,but when they go bad,12 volts will make them work for a little while.
The problem usually shows up when the engines warm or hot.

I had a tough time with one a few years ago. But do as Frank says--keep using the slide hammer. Eventually it will pop out. Just make sure you don't pinch your finger in the slide hammer. I can tell you from experience it will cause a lot blue language! Hurts, too!

Probably a dumb reply but NAPA has the axel bearings and seals.

My daugther got her first car yesterday, 95 Mustang, 6 cyc, the lens for the head lights are yellowing, also have some moisture inside them. Is there something that can be used to clean and polish this yellowing out of the lens ( its plastic)?

Most ,if not all,of the plastic headlamp lenses are molded from polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) is GE's brand. The yellowing and crazing is a normal sign of aging and there's nothing that can be done about it for a permanent fix. The lenses are coated with a UV resistant coating to slow the process but (as us greybeards know) aging is a natural process.

That happened with the Wilwood brakes on the front of my '34. Wilwood sent me anti-squeek shims and a spring that goes between the pads at the top where the cotter pin holds them in. The spring did the trick.I just needed a little something to hold the pads apart when I wasn't braking after they wore in .
I don't know if you have Wilwood brakes or not but this reply might help somebody.