Messages

I am looking to have my original steering box for my 1935 ford pickup rebuilt.  I got a quote of $250.00 from Lares Corporation in MN to do the rebuild.  Is this a good price?  Has anyone heard of this company and the quality of their work?  Any of you guys know of someone that does this work and you would recommend?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Mike

Doc,

Thanks for the input.

Let me make sure that I have this correct.  When you say start with the valve all the way out you mean - turned as far as you can go in the "decrease" direction.  Correct?  If the brakes lock up right away then "increase" the proportioning which will slow the rate at which the brakes lock up.  Correct?

regarding the master:  Hopefully, I have the correct power master.  The shop I bought it from specializes in street rod building and this is what they use on all their builds.  So, I assumed it to be correct.   It could be that the master is simple a Corvette "style" master.  I guess I'll find out.

I have just completed plumbing the brakes on my 35 pickup.  It is a front disc / rear drum system with an under the floor corvette power booster / master. The shop that sold me the booster told me that I didn't need a 2 lb. residual valve up front because the master has it already built in.  The rear line has a 10 lb residual valve and adjustable proportioning valve.  In order to test the system, where do I start in terms of the adjustable proportioning valve.  The knob on the proportioning valve has arrows to turn to "increase" or "decrease".  To start out, should I turn the knob all the way in the increase direction or all the way in the decrease direction or somewhere in between?
I read some of the tips on the Master Power brake site but am still confused.

Thanks for your thoughts.

I'm running a Borg Warner T-5 5 speed manual transmission. The slave cylinder is a stock hydraulic unit from a GM F body. I have run a braided stainless teflon hose from the clutch master cylinder push rod assemby to the slave cylinder, itself. My question is: what type of hose should I run from the remote fluid reservoir to the master cylinder push rod assembly. The stock line is too short and must be replaced. The reservoir is plastic and the original factory installed hose was clamped to the reservoir and to the master cylinder push rod assembly with nylon wire ties. This is not a pressurized line. The hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is gravity fed. My concern is the corrosiveness of the hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) eating away the hose; but, at the same time I need a hose that will allow me to clamp and seal to the plastic reservoir and composite master cylinder without requiring much force as it could crack the plastic reservoir.   The hose is a 5/16 ID hose.  Would a fuel line hose suffice?
Also, if you could tell me where I could purchase the suggestions you offer. A lot of the local shops that fabricate hose to carry hydraulic fluid will not even consider providing me a line for a vehicle.  They say it's a liability issue. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike