Friends and I were there in May, my first time, can't help much on accommodations. it's somewhat similar to B'ville lot more dusty, and windy, overall a very good turnout. Local vendor had hots and hamburgers been to B'ville before , suggest to bring water and drinks, very dry.....and other usual stuff , sun screen definitely a hat. It's going to be my annual stop.since B'ville is too spotty with the salt issues and besides it's only 3.5 hrs away from here
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#2
Rodder's Roundtable / Odd rear end noise
September 28, 2015, 01:39:27 PMQuote from: "chimp koose"something to do with the pinion gear I am guessing ? while driving it loads the bearing , pinion being pushed towards the front and while coasting it has slack ?had same problem with my 8"" Ford, slop in the pinion gear when de accelerating sounded like a "groan" adding power sound went away
#3
Rodder's Roundtable / The anything car?
August 02, 2014, 11:35:08 PMQuote from: "river1"this itThanks Jim, I guess I'm not ready for the retirement home too soon.........
http://www.motorbooks.com/motorbooks-blog/Anything-Cars/251
later jim
#4
Rodder's Roundtable / The anything car?
August 02, 2014, 08:07:25 PM
Maybe 20-25 years ago I remember That a bank was promoting The anything car or The everything car... It was "a Frankenstein" I remember it had VW parts on it, also Model T body and a few other car features. I had a picture once ,long lost, Please jolt me back to reality if I'm dreaming this :oops:
#5
Rodder's Roundtable / 1940 Chev windshied wipers
August 02, 2014, 07:49:14 PMQuote from: "enjenjo"Western Rain gear has a system that I tried, it was inadequate, I later changed it out for a Newport. Chevys of the 40s has one that is a clone of the Newport. It works good too. The only other one I have tried is the Specialty Power windows system, it works good, but you have to change the transmissions out for something else, and it's twice the price of NewportIn my Chevy(vert) I installed a wiper unit from an older Jeep(read Post office)it wipes left to right, not like the original and I rigged it it with only 1 speed.It serves the purpose, and since it rains about 2" a yr here it's more for show than go
On the splined adapters, Anco has some that hold up well.
If the motor is the problem, I am sure you can buy a replacement.
#6
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Stainless trim restoration
July 06, 2014, 01:32:21 PMQuote from: "348tripower"I have four pieces for this wagon that need some work. Any leads that won't break the bank?Some quick thoughts from my experience.... 1 If you have extra pieces to experiment with.. get a feel how the buffer, drill or whatever works, 2. on long narrow pieces back up the trim piece with a 1X1 ( i wrap the trim with painter's tape to keep the trim from flapping) so it doesn't flap in the wind. 3. a lot of surface sratches can be sanded with 400 paper again practice on a spare piece, I sand with 400. 600 wet/dry sandpaper Proper pressure is the key ,too much and the part will fly off you hands, gain confidence, a major point to your sucess.... I managed to buff out apiece of pot metal so pitted that I was ready to give up (on my glove box) progessively with finer media and then clear coated , I hope this helps
#7
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: bad answer
June 13, 2014, 01:29:16 PMQuote from: "Beck"You guys always have the answers. They are just not the answers I want to hear.There has to be a gazzilion Chevys in the junk yard (not trying to bust your balls ) try getting an arm and blade and see if the problem goes away
This won't work in the snow and ice, for sure!
This Blazer has been beat in the past. I have no reason to expect this is the original windshield. Many of the other repairs were done at less than top quality. I am trying to get it all sorted out.
Thanks.
#8
Rodder's Roundtable / F1 door handles
June 01, 2014, 01:20:42 PMQuote from: "enjenjo"I don't remember seeing this before, you have probably taken care of it by now. Any way, if it's all working like it should, but the handles still sag, you can twist the shaft on the handle so it sets level, and get a lot more use out of them.update.. I bought 2 new door handles for my F1, there is a small coil spring on the shaft just behind the handle, apparently the spring weakens and does not allow the handle to return to the horizontal position. I know this sounds trivial but I noticed that at east 50% of the F 1 door handles sag and hopefuuly it might help somepne
#9
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Resto steering wheels
April 13, 2014, 06:30:21 PMQuote from: "Digger"Just got back from Pomona an hr ago, got this card from a vender that said he has 15" steeringwheels for a 56 Chev I didn't ask for a price, but here......... try (KOCH'S) www.kochssteeringwheels.com...... Acton CAQuote from: "Digger"Quote from: "40 Chev Coupe"Does anyone know who manufactors the 15" 1955-56 Chevrolet steering wheels? I heard they also make a 1955-56 Thunderbird one also. Im trying to get the info on each one to compare, and to find out if the Thunderbird will fit a GM Ididit column.
National Parts Depot sells the T-Bird steering wheels
Looking at that again, NPD's might be the full size. If you Google it there are a couple companies that have the 15 inch wheel. Also one on E-Bay
#10
Rodder's Roundtable / Falken tires
September 26, 2013, 07:40:19 PMQuote from: "Harry"Firestone is owned by Bridgestone.I have a set on wife's Caddy,. They are uni directional 18's and 19's, still in business according to the tire store
http://falkentire.com/?gclid=CLibysGkrrkCFS_ZQgodgUcAMg
Try asking the supplier.
#11
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: T5
September 25, 2013, 06:14:03 PMQuote from: InprimerInstalled a S 10, T5 tranny in my '52 F 1 PU,(stock FH), it has a Speedway adaptor, new clutch, T/O bearing, new 10.5 in P/P all from Speedway The clutch has been adjusted, the motor has NOT been recently fired but it runs fine, now now no matter what gear I put it in, the driveshafts spins (not connected to the rear) at first I thought the clutch was slipping but it seems like its always in neutral no matter what gear its in
I took the gear shifter out and inserted a 3/8 in drive ratchet and "moved" the position going thru the gears and nothing any thoughts??
After yankin the few strands left on my head......turned the problem over a gearhead mech... To the best of my recollection Speedway states that an 11 in clutch and PP will not fit with their adapter, as MY recollection I used a 10.5 in P/P and clutch again as stated at the time( last yr)no can do, after further investigation a (new footnote states that a 9" clutch& P/P must be used somewhere in the bowles) problem solved, but not to tear too much in the Speedway thread I swear by my numbers, /I.E. 10.5 clutch P/P must be used, needless to say I ended up with about $150 or so with wall art.The 9" issue showed up way after I bought the 10.5 P/P and clutch
I wish I should have done more research, lesson learned. On the bright side, my Flattie runs like hellsapopping and the T5 is a blast to drive can chirp wheels in 2nd gear and after all the "drama" mostly of my own accord, I'm one happy old man with a toothy grin.... thanks for listening IP
#12
Rodder's Roundtable / T5
July 11, 2013, 12:34:55 AM
enjenjo, the flywheel was redrilled at machine shop, redrilled for a 10.5 P/P and a 10.5 in clutch, again all new stuff from speedway, also new pilot bearing.
#13
Rodder's Roundtable / T5
July 11, 2013, 12:30:25 AM
Wayne, here is no visible access between the F1 bellhousing the Spway adapter and the T5 trans
The clutch, P/P and T/o bearings are all new,what is weird when I installed the clutch( with a 14 spine plastic install tool) the 3 fingers went in?? the bolts around the P/P were torqued down and red lock tightened.the bolts that actuate the P/P were left alone I was able to put press on each finger individually and all seemed well (with a small crowbar) The T/O bearing has a new sleeve as per instructions. this is the 5th time I R&R the trans and it's getting tiresome to say the least. I am sure the P/P is installed correctly, after some adj I know the shaft and fork are pushing into the T/O bearing and the P/P are dis engaging from the flywheel , next step is a tow to a guy with way more knowledge than me. I have a ton of new stuff in this truck and even though I don't give up easily, I'm wasting precious time fighting this thing. Thanks will let you know the outcome
The clutch, P/P and T/o bearings are all new,what is weird when I installed the clutch( with a 14 spine plastic install tool) the 3 fingers went in?? the bolts around the P/P were torqued down and red lock tightened.the bolts that actuate the P/P were left alone I was able to put press on each finger individually and all seemed well (with a small crowbar) The T/O bearing has a new sleeve as per instructions. this is the 5th time I R&R the trans and it's getting tiresome to say the least. I am sure the P/P is installed correctly, after some adj I know the shaft and fork are pushing into the T/O bearing and the P/P are dis engaging from the flywheel , next step is a tow to a guy with way more knowledge than me. I have a ton of new stuff in this truck and even though I don't give up easily, I'm wasting precious time fighting this thing. Thanks will let you know the outcome
#14
Rodder's Roundtable / T5
July 10, 2013, 07:24:56 PM
Installed a S 10, T5 tranny in my '52 F 1 PU,(stock FH), it has a Speedway adaptor, new clutch, T/O bearing, new 10.5 in P/P all from Speedway The clutch has been adjusted, the motor has NOT been recently fired but it runs fine, now now no matter what gear I put it in, the driveshafts spins (not connected to the rear) at first I thought the clutch was slipping but it seems like its always in neutral no matter what gear its in
I took the gear shifter out and inserted a 3/8 in drive ratchet and "moved" the position going thru the gears and nothing any thoughts??
:?: :?: :?:
I took the gear shifter out and inserted a 3/8 in drive ratchet and "moved" the position going thru the gears and nothing any thoughts??
:?: :?: :?:
#15
Rodder's Roundtable / caddy fuel pump
May 27, 2013, 08:50:00 PM
I'd like to thank Wayne Petty and others for the answer, finally got to it and sure enough the pump was perforated, got new pump, 2 new fuel filters and oil/filter change, thanks for the answer Inprimer and my friend Bill