Messages

Hi all,

Has anyone here bought one of the one-piece hood offerings for 1947-53 Chevy pickups?

I'm wondering about fitment. I've fitted the stock hood but want to get rid of the seam in the middle of the hood.

Any info would be appreciated

My52Chebby

I have never had a problem with someone saying that it is considered a broken windshield.  They were two pieces from the factory, we just removed the rubber strip that separated them.   Yes, we did leave a small space between the two pieces of glass.

John

Thank you John, I will take your suggestion to heart and go with the two piece windshield.

Ray "My52Chebby"

Hi all,

As I said, I'm looking into buying a one-piece bent windshield for my 1952 Chevy pickup.

I'm wondering if anyone on here has ever installed one using the rubber/stainless trim that came with Deluxe cabs? I realize it would entail fabricating stainless transition pieces for the center top and bottom (where the center windshield bar would have been).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My52Chebby

FWIW I looked at one in a '37 Ford & there was quite a bit of distortion in the middle where it was bent. I passed on buying one for my '40 Ford.I believe '54 Chevy truck cabs were 1 pc from factory.

The '54-'55 cab is different from the '47-'53 cabs to accept the one-piece curved windshield.

Ray "My52Chebby"

John, did you measure the center divider and split the dimension an add to both parts?

He probably left a small space in between the plates of glass for the silicone (1/16" to an 1/8"), otherwise you'd have glass edges rubbing and no place for the silicone bead to "lock in".

Ray "My52Chebby"

We cut new glass for my windshield and eliminated the center divider.  The two piece of glass were ground at an angle and we used a thin layer of clear silicone between the two pieces in the center. I do not notice any distortion when I am driving but it is there.  It has been like this for over 20 years.

John

Well John, after reading about the distortion (I know I was already NOT happy with the price) of a bent windshield, I might go your route. The only problem I have with the butted windshield solution is that I was told some States by law consider that a broken windshield. But hey, I'm in Canada... LOL

Thanks all for your comments.

Ray "My52Chebby"

Hi all,

As I said, I'm looking into buying a one-piece bent windshield for my 1952 Chevy pickup.

I'm wondering if anyone on here has ever installed one using the rubber/stainless trim that came with Deluxe cabs? I realize it would entail fabricating stainless transition pieces for the center top and bottom (where the center windshield bar would have been).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My52Chebby

Hi all,

I've tried to email the NEW Hop Up magazine website at 3 different email addies and they all bounced back.

I want to order back issues for the new Vol 11 and the first issue of Vol 12 but can't seem to get a reply.

Are they still in business??? Anyone have a phone number?

My52Chebby

It looks like August 2014 was the last issue.

What month/year was the last issue of Custom Classic Trucks?

My52Chebby

Why would a larger bore create a spongy pedal?

Could it trap a small air bubble ?

My theory is that if hydraulic brakes work by pushing brake fluid from a big cylinder (the master cylinder) into a small tube (the brake line), you'll increase the pressure in that small tube.

Now... If that small tube has to then fill a bigger tube (the Thru-frame fitting) wouldn't there be a noticeable pressure differential?

BTW, I did purchase and receive my Thru-frame fittings from Billet Specialties and yes, they do have a larger diameter through-hole than the brake line inner diameter.

Billet Specialties' through-hole is nearly 3/8" whereas the brake line is a touch under 1/8". That's a 200 percent bigger area to push brake fluid through.

I've decided to compensate (close in the inner diameter) with a piece of tubing as was suggested.

My52Chebby

A piece of polyethylene tubing inside the fitting that fit snugly in the fitting, with an ID about the same as the brake line should cure that.

I'll keep that in mind if I can't get info before ordering.

Thanks

My52Chebby

I remember reading somewhere that a braking problem arose (sponginess) from one of these thru-frame fittings. The problem was that the "through hole" was too big, it should be the same inside diameter as the brake line it's attached to.

Now here's my dilemma, there are basically three companies that manufacture these thru-frame brake fittings; Russell, SSBC and Billet Specialties (I think there are also some made by Jegs). NONE of these companies actually tell you what the inside diameter (ID) of the fitting is.

Has anyone on here used these? I'm looking for 03-AN at one end and 1/8" pipe thread at the other end but I'd like the ID to match a 1/4" brake line's ID. I'd like first hand info from someone who has installed them or at least where to find info on the ID of the fittings.

My52Chebby

I met a guy at a car show this weekend and we started discussing adding a remote start to my 350 carbureted small block. He was saying that I won't have any problem seeing as I already have an electric fuel pump (mechanical pump location holds bracket for A/C)

The fuel pump is wired on the accessory side same as the remote start so once I press the remote start, the fuel pump starts, the carb gets the fuel it needs... No need for pumping the carb to start...

Is this making any sense???

Comments, hints, any help welcome...

My52Chebby

I'm sure the subject has been discussed before but I couldn't find reference anywhere doing a search.

X-Pipes...? vs H-Pipes...?

Size of pipe vs exhaust system pipe size...? Same or smaller...?

No Crossover vs Crossover...?

Pro? vs Cons?

What say you?

Can you provide a photo where your braided wiring loom goes from the door to the dash panel ??

Here's a close-up of the loom...



I shaped aluminum blocks to accept the loom ends (Watson's Streetworks). The ends are the ONLY part I used from the loom kit, the braided hose is actually a plumbing item from the hardware store. The plumbing braid has a tighter braid and is held it place with JB Weld epoxy, not the supplied nut.

Also, the braided hose is fixed at the dash and moves into the raised door panel. Here is what the raised door panel looks like from the backside.



The raised door panels hold the stock looking door and window handles but they're really electric micro-switches. The "ramp" guides the braid inside the door panel. The wires are looped in a gentle loop that returns the wires to the two switches.

While we're at it, I'll show you the work I've done on the door hinge plates. I fabricated some stainless covers. First I adjusted the doors and corrected the door gaps. Once satisfied with the door adjustments, I pinned both the door to the hinge and hinge to the cab.

Pinned door through hinge (see drill bit):



Pinned hinge to cab (see 3/16" rod):



Here is one of the stainless steel escutcheons in situ:



Here's what I took off the truck... BTW, they were spot welded to the hinge.



The aluminum buck is reversible but I still had to fabricate two bucks. The edges or the bucks were routered (with a trim router and 1/8" radius bit). If held securely, aluminum can be routered like wood using carbide tools.



Please feel free to browse through my truck album... Questions and comments welcomed.

http://public.fotki.com/skylark/1952-chevy-pickup/

My52Chebby