Messages

I have asked about the usage of jag crossmembers on a 49-52 chevy before but I figured with the addition of our new Aussie friends that it would not be a bad  idea to bring it up again.  I was wondering what all was involved as, what jags could be used, as well as any good or bad things about them. Any information or pictures would be a great help.
                                                                                     Thanks
                                                                                     Dan

you should check and see if it is a resistance motor, if it is I would think that you should be fine. But I think it might be too old, I am not sure.
I would call a GM dealer or look it up.
                                                             Dan

I am putting a 350 in my 50 chevy and it looks as if I will probably have to change the heater (I have one tunnel on each side for the core). I would think that it would get in the way. Does anyone have any experiences with any other cores. Also I was wondering if anyone was looking for a 216 w/ a 3speed.  Thanks Dan.

To do it right you will need a plastic welder and plastic rod. You choose the rod by what type of plastic it is (thermoset or thermosetting), there is a code on the main piece. You actually use an adhesive from 3m for your filler, before you use it though you must spray an antistatic on there. Then you sand it and work your way down to 220 grit and then it can be primed. If you have any questions on some of the things needed I would look on 3m's website.If you are talking about fiberglass 3m have a kit for that also and you just need to prep the glass first and have mat for the deeper holes and gashes.

                                                           Dan

I might be wrong but I think a 1991-1997 lebaren would have what you are looking for as will some other front wheel drive cars. You might want to check it out before you take my word for it because I am just working off of memory and could be wrong, but if it works i think that is one of the easier R&Ps to set toe on. Hope I could help.
                                                                          Dan

A lot of the 2 post lifts have come a long way the past few years. The ones that i have used I have really liked. I would buy a 2 post because they allow more access and if you what to lift the frame off a vehicle you just take out the body mount bolts and set the lift under the body.  Everyone has preferences and if i were you i would find somewhere local where you could look at both and form your opinion from that. In my opinion if you do body work a 2 post is more convenient. The 2 posts that we use often have trucks, suvs and vans on them for an extended period of time and seem to function rather well even while wrenching, grinding, hammering, and pulling cradles on vehicles.
                                                                          Dan

I was wondering if anyone has any experiences with any front crossmembers other than stock on a 49-54 Chevy. I am probably using the stock one but I figured that I would keep my options open and learn a few things in the process.
                                                                  Thanks,
                                                                   Dan

If a strut is gone will the tire weardown real fast? I have a blown strut and the tire is worn quite a bit while the other 3 are near new. Thanks.

If you have not changed the struts yet, mark on your strut tower where it is set at. It is a good idea to get an alignment because many cars have adjustments on the strut tower for camber and some even caster. If you set the replacements to the same spot as the old ones, you can at least keep it on the road without paying to get an alignment. Caster and camber will both pull at .5 degees but only camber will wear your tires. If you get an alignment make sure they set SAI and included angle as well, most shops will not unless you ask. I know that most of that was somewhat off the subject but tires can get expensive.
                                                                Dan

I think Frank said S10 4WD rotors.

That is for do it yourself discs. 78 to 85 Toronado and Rivi front rotors will work too, they are 11" And 60's Corvette rear rotors are 12" if you want really big brakes. Any of these are the right bolt pattern to fit on the stock hubs with very little work. All you have to do is fab a caliper bracket then. And you can usually cobble that out of a full size 4x4 Blazer front backing plate.

Thanks for all of the help. I was also wondering what type of calipers I  could use or if the stock s10 rotors would be suitable. I have read that almost any can be used from any standard chevys from I think 1970-1978. Also I was wondering if there were any supports that I would need for the firewall after removing the ribs.
                                                       Thanks,
                                                              Dan

I am 20 years old and an autobody student.I live near Rooster and he recommended this site. I have recently purchased my first hot rod project. It is a 1950 Chevy Deluxe with the original drivetrain, at first I was going to keep it all original, because of the lack of money, but then I got offered a 350 with a 350 turbo transmission.  I was just wondering what were some of the possible ways to swap the motors. Would the inner fenders or frame need to be altered? Can I keep the original king-pin front suspension? Are there any mounts that are prefered? What about the heater core and the air dams? Any input would be a great help to help me start on my new project.
                                                                        Thanks,
                                                                         Dan