Messages

That combo should work fine. After all, Chevy put Saginaws behind big blocks in 1970.

Ok good. thanks.

oh yeah the grill I have it not that wide. oh well it makes good garage art I guess. I wish I was ready for the premier of my truck. I was making some progress, had the stovebolt mounts/crossmembers made and was looking to buy a driveline when I decided I needed more horsepower. My daily driver truck is a 4 cylinder and I wasn't looking forward to less power in my hot rod. Once I have the truck rolling and have the engine equipment I am just going to get a crate motor. For now I bought one of the plastic mockup sbcs on ebay and the tubular mounts from speedway. Now I just need a bellhousing to mount up to my saginaw before I can weld up the mounts mounts and get my driveline. Price wise it looks like the 10.5 bellhousing is the way to go. My local junkyard has them fo $45 which is a little cheaper than what I have seen online. If stay at around 300hp do you think my rebuilt saginaw and a 10.5 inch clutch will be OK?

Hey GPster how is the truck doing? Is this the fenderless 54 chev? Sorry I have not been on here or the hamb much. I login and browse once in awhile but work and kids having been keeping my yapping time on the computer to a minimum. My truck is still "in progress" maybe next year hehe

ANYWAY I happen to have one of those Mercedes Benz grills. I bought it on Ebay for only $10. I thought it looked cool and couldn't resist at that price. If you think it will work and will use it, you can have it. Here's a pic...

GPSter, the vertical grill on the ebay truck might look good on yours. Maybe not a terraplane grill but a similar concept?

I really like that truck as a concept but not as-is. It is featured in a recent Rodder's Digest. If I remember correctly the article says the current owner bought it off the creator and then added the bed and the carbs? The bed ruins it. Imagine it with smooth body panels, consistent paint (shiny or flat) and a custom bed or no bed at all.

thanks that does help some! I wish my s10 was manual so I could just go look at it.

I called my local Napa and they asked me what type of inlet? was required and what length stroke. I guess if I can figure that out I can call them with the specs. I know from speedway the bore I need is 7/8 to match the mstr cyl.

What is a good car/source for oem push slave cylinders?  I bought a pull slave from speedway thinking I had room for it under the floor but don't.

Trying to avoid the wilwood/speedway push model because it will be partially in view under the hood.

thanks! I forgot he had done that! I would like to try to keep the fenders intact if I can. I'm sure there is probably some functional reason everyone cuts them there though?

Enjenjo, I need some hinges. I am going to search around to see if I can find out what those look like. How/where do they attach to the cab on the coe?

They are a plated hinge that is exposed, about 1" wide, and 6 to7" long overall. They bolt down through the cowl with a doubler plate underneath.

I was looking at my hood this weekend when I realized that I am going to make the whole front a one piece removable/tilt! not sure how yet but it can't be too hard right?    Gonna attack that after I have my driveline and brakes hooked up and the cab mounts figured.

yeah I am using the 1958 235 that came in the truck. Those vette sidedraft carbs are my dream setup! For now I have a repop dual offy intake with progressive holley/webers. Modifying either the adapter/risers or the air cleaners should get the clearance. Having the two air cleaner hats stick out of the hood about half way might look kind of cool.

Enjenjo, I need some hinges. I am going to search around to see if I can find out what those look like. How/where do they attach to the cab on the coe?

I didn't mean to abandon the RRT, I just got sidetracked! Heck it all started here for me a few years ago on the previous board. My project vision really hasn't changed much, I just missed a few self-imposed deadlines. So I stopped making them.  Last I left off here I was trying to figure out how to Z my frame I think. I had in my head this weird way I was going to do it. After getting in to it "my way" I finally saw the light and ended up doing it exactly as was suggested here to by enjenjo and 1fatgmc in the first place!  :oops:  Stacking tube, welding, cutting the angles and then boxing. I went through a lot of trial and error but I think I have it the way I want and its straight!   The final specs:

Wheelbase: 140"  
Ride Height: 4.5" level (lowest point is frame rail, stock front steering geometry)
Rear tire diameter: 29"
Front tire diameter: 24.5"
Motor just clears the hood, will have to modify the air cleaners to either make them stick out or sit down another inch.


Hey I found your pics! What did you decide on the grill and what motor do you have hiding in there?

GPSter,
Is this the fenderless 51?? I was wondering about your project the other day. Have any recent photos?  Sorry, It's been a long time since I have logged in here. My truck is still in the works too, getting closer every year though.  


_Eric

Found here .... http://public.fotki.com/wackydave/cars_-_various_themes/hot_rods/chevys_1930-48/dsc01930.html

I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra two wheel drive that I want to lower.  I have contacted most of the suspension providers and some folks at Toyota TRD but no one can tell me how to do it for less than a complete re-engineering of the front suspension.  The rear has leaf springs so I'm not worried about that but there seems to be a problem with the design of the front suspension.  Anyone have any ideas?
Don

if it like the 90 Toyota p/u I had in High School it has torsion bars and the adjusters are on the frame about middle of the door. I used to lower mine and raise it that way all the time. My Dad would go out of town on a trip and I would drive down to the gas station my friend worked at and we would throw it up on the lift and break out the air socket and drop that sucker until we couldn't get it off the lift without someone pulling up on the front bumper! Torsion in the front and blocks in the back. When Dad was about a day out I had to raise it back up. Lowering it and raising it like that worked for looks only, after a few years the front end was all out of whack. The other problem I ran in to with lowering the back that much was the driveline would rub on the crossmember if someone sat in the back. not sure if that will help you much but it sure was fun remembering it.

cheers