Messages

It will work either way, but better with the tip trailing.

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Issue resolved.
Somehow I crossed the fan motor wires  when I replaced the sensor.
Reversing the wires makes it work properly, which is PULLING since my fan is between the radiator and the motor.
I looked at the direction vendors placed the blade in their fan/shroud package.
As you stated, the CURVE should be leading.  This is exactly the way my fan is working now and it pulls a lot of air.

Thanks a bunch,
Mike

Can anyone tell me the proper direction the BLADE should be pointing on a CURVE BLADE fan.

I need to confirm the direction of he CURVE BLADE with the motor set  in the PULLING air position.

I currently have the fan with the TIP leading and I don't think this is correct.

Thank you in advance.

LG,
Mike

I like this style  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16401/overview/   It uses a different type of valve than most thermostats, and they seldom fail. It's the type used on large diesel and industrial engines.

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I was looking for this thermostat.  A Marine Vendor had it but I did not want to send for it at the time ...........Changed my mind.

I just ordered it via SUMMIT RACING as you suggested.

Thank you very much..........

LG,
Mike

You can get a bad thermostat. When you take this one out you can test it when you test the new one. If you now have trust issues with the brand you have, spend the extra money.

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Well, both of them WORKED OK for a very short while.

The one I now have is a "MR GASKET 180°" which is the HIGHER performance one at around $20 US. (the EXTRA money one)   LOL
The first one was one step above standard at the price of apprx. $7 US.

That's what is upsetting about these items, they can work fine for days and then go CAPUT for a while and work again.

The GOOD thing is that they are guaranteed for a year.  I guess I will have to save my receipt on the next one.

Thanks for the input...............
LG,
Mike

OPINION NEEDED-

¿What is the BEST water thermostat available for a SBC?
I have a 1968 327 CI motor that is pretty tired but still good.

I can NOT believe I will now replace the THERMOSTAT for the SECOND time in less than 205 miles.

When it works.........There is NO issue.  The event coordinators had me and a couple of other cars creeping along for approx. one hour before they finally figured out where to park us at yesterday's Santa Barbara State Street car show.  My gauge NEVER went above 180°.........and it shouldn't with a new electric fan; aluminum radiator/ shroud; plus and extra transmission cooler besides the radiator cooler and also an oil cooler and with NO hood.

Could it be possible to get two bad thermostats??

¿ Has anyone ever used a "brass high-flo thermostat"?  If so, please comment.

Thank you in advance.

LG,
Mike

"You have to have the starting and ending angle right to get the correct transmission pressures, as that changes the rate of pressure increase."[/quote]

Hi River1,

Thank you for your reply-
YES, per the sketches provided by Crosley and the ones I have, the GEOMETRY on my carburetor is pretty much like the sketches.  
One thing to take into account which NO ONE has mentioned, and was told to me by the owner of a transmission shop that's been in business for over 40 years, is that the STARTING POINT is very crucial. The BEST way to find this point on a modified setup like mine, is to pull on the TV cable until you feel the plunger........then pull another 1/4" to secure the cable.  This is all at rest with the motor off.  Then the TV cable should NOT constrict the throttle from reaching WOT.  Once you drive the car, the fine shifting adjustments can be made by adjusting the TV cable at the rear mounting location.

I have yet to test the transmission and will post my results once i do so.

Thanks Crosley-

I had some of the literature and really appreciate now having pretty much all of it.

Attached is a picture of how my set-up looks now.  I still have NOT tested it out.  If need be, now I know what to do for sure.

Thanks again,
LG,
Mike


http://s198.photobucket.com/user/vso737_2007/media/002%20TV%20cable%20geometry_zpsykzpxlp8.jpg.html

Hi,

Does anyone have a 4L60 or 700R4 hooked up to a SBC Quadrajet carburetor??

If so, I need to see a picture of the TV cable linkage on the carburetor.

I have a 4L60 trans. with a Lokar TV cable hooked up to my 1968 327CI motor.  The Quadrajet carburetor has the stock automatic trans. linkage and I want to touch basis that I'm on the right track as far as GEOMETRY and adjustment goes.

THANK YOU IN ADVANCE...............

LG,
Mike

Can anyone furnish a picture of the Quadrajet carburetor with a 700R4 TV cable hooked up to the carburetor linkage?

Thank you in advance,
Mike

Thanks Canuck,

Pretty impressive set and NOT cheap but well worth the money.

I will try to come up with my own design first.......nice to know that I have a good option.  I like to use the "KISS" method as much as I can.

Should have my monster on the road in a few months.  It's been 6 + years.

Thanks again,
Mike

kb426

Thank YOU 'kb426'

I looked every place I could think of except the Model A vendors that I deal with all the time.  LIVE AND LEARN.          LOL

Thanks again,
Mike

Hi,

Does anyone know what this spring is called?

Also where I can purchase one?

http://s198.photobucket.com/user/vso737_2007/media/leatherstrap-fastner_zps85ed3895.jpg.html?filters%5Buser%5D=45388911&filters%5Brecent%5D=1&sort=1&o=0[/img]

[YOU ARE NOT]

Finally figured out what was wrong with the starter.
The gear went out and I had a repair shop replace it.  These mini starters, at least the one I have are MAGNETICALLY driven instead of having an armature.

YOU ARE NOT suppose to use a REMOTE SOLENOID unless you put a diode in the circuit to keep the electricity from feeding back to the starter.
If you use a REMOTE SOLENOID the starter will CONTINUE to run...........ask me how I know.
Also, it is very easy to reverse the direction the gear turns. The repair shop found that out.  All you have to do is reverse the direction of the center body with the magnets are.

LG,
Mike

Hi,
Can anyone tell me what brand this starter is.  There is NO markings or labels and it is BRAND NEW............
The vendor in Ventura claims it is a Powermaster.  I contacted Powermaster and the tech. said close but no cigar.
I have gone through two of them with a total of less than 20 starts between the two.
The first one, after starting the car a few times, started to activate and stay out spinning without retracting and running with the motor.
The second one, after starting the car a few times, started to engage the flywheel and spins without power to turn the flexplate and it does retract.

The motor is a 283CI block with 327CI top.  The starter DOES NOT have internal SHIMS and I have used flat shims between the starter and the block. It is a STAGGERED hole starter.

Any assistance would be highly appreciated.

LG,
Mike
http://s198.photobucket.com/user/vso737_2007/media/008ministarter_zps17e5a8f2.jpg.html]

http://s198.photobucket.com/user/vso737_2007/media/004ministarter_zpsaebd11c1.jpg.html]

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I give up on it.  The POWERMASTER tech. told me YOU CAN NOT use a remote starter with these HIGH TORQUE MINI STARTERS because they are magnetic vs armature starters and if you do the starter will keep spinning.  Just like mine originally was.

I re-installed it already and just wired it up the conventional way.  NO BIG deal for me really because I have easy access to the starter and do NOT have a clearance problem.

I'm just using the remote starter as a junction box.  All the battery comes off of one post and the SOLENOID straight from the ignition switch.  NOT going through the remote starter at all.  Works well for me and I rather err on the side of caution.

Thank you for the input,
Mike