Messages

Why didn't I think of that, Frank. I ordered some German lube designed for sun roofs. Also ordered the Krytox Ford recommends for the rubber seal. $25 for half an ounce! Hope it works good. Thank you.

Went to buy a battery for the '48 and was shocked when the parts guy said it was $165. Last battery I bought I think was $110 and that was only a couple of years ago.

I took the moonroof off a late 90's Ford Taurus and welded into this '48 project. Worked great when I did it 20-some years ago. I just put it back in and it drags and does not close completely. I've synched the motor according to factory service directions and still does not close. I ordered some Krytox grease for the rubber seal around the glass, which is what Ford recommends.

However, they don't have anything in the service manuals about what to use on the rails themselves. I stopped at my local Ford dealer and the parts guy spent 15 minutes looking in the manuals for me and he couldn't find anything.

Anybody have experience with lubing moonroofs? There are a couple cables that are surrounded by a sheath. I plan on shooting some silicone down those tubes and then putting some silicone on the rails unless I get a better suggestion.

Walt

PS: Having loads of trouble with leaks. Brakes, tranny lines, water pump. Slowly getting them taken care of. I put a new pump on last weekend and I think that is leaking around one of the gaskets. I put a little copper gasket maker on them and maybe I shouldn't have done that. Will probably take it off again this weekend. I can do it an hour or so.

Thanks for that info, Wayne!

Walt

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is running! Put in the cleaned injectors and it fired right up. Was running a little rough until I discovered I forgot to hook up the EGR connector when I put the fuel rails back on.

Had a leak in a heater hose and took it to my local NAPA to have it crimped again. Problem solved. A couple little leaks in tranny line and power steering at the box, tightened up the fittings and all is well there. Had to replace a spindle that was somehow bent, so I could get my new Power Stop front calipers on. Put the driveshaft and torque arm on, just need to bleed the brakes and then try backing it out of the garage for the first time since 1997. Whew.

Sent them off today to a place called InjectorRX in Houston. They clean and verify proper operation for $22. I thought about trying to clean them myself but I don't want to screw them up and don't want to go to all the trouble of putting them back on, etc. unless I know they are 100%. Looks like it will be another couple weeks before she's running. Time to finish up some AC lines, wire up a relay to send 5V to the PCM for my AC temp control, wire up the moonroof. Always something to do on a custom build.

I ended up taking all the injectors off, and will probably send them out to be cleaned. I found a site lt1350.com and the guy who runs it told me to apply power to each injector and I should here a "click". If not, the injector is plugged. I did not hear any clicks so took them out. I saw no sign that gas was getting into the manifold so I'm pretty sure that's the problem.

Watched a lot of videos about how to clean them myself, but if they are stuck I think my best bet is to have them done by a pro.

My engine has that vacuum line for the opti. Since I'm getting spark at the plug I'm assuming it is working properly. I'm using the complete original harness I pulled from the donor Camaro.

I hope the reader points me in the right direction. I have the factory service manual and I've been doing the tests for all the codes that indicate no start, but I'm really just throwing darts doing that.

The manual says 2 seconds on the pump relay, which does work. I have pressure in RUN and START

Finally getting to where I can try to start my '95 Lt1-powered '48 Chevy. At first it would not crank, traced that to a bad VATS relay. Then I had no spark, cleaned up the connectors at the optispark distributor and now have spark. I found out the hard way today when I accidentally touched my spark tester while cranking the motor. Got a good shock.

Bought a noid light kit and the injectors are firing. I have the recommended fuel pressure at the fuel rails.

Seems to fire if I spray a little starting fluid in it but I suppose that could be the ether igniting from the compression.

I've read that the tach needs to read over 100 RPM for it to start, which I don't have, but I also read where if I have spark then that's not an issue.

I'm wondering if all the injectors are plugged from sitting for 25 years. Seems to me that if at least a couple of them were squirting it would try to start.

My next step is to take the fuel rails out, stick the injectors in jars and see if any gas is coming out.

Things are so much easier with my carbureted '39. The '95 Camaro's came from the factory with OBD1 computer but OBD2 test connector. I found a OBD1 tester on eBay that will be here next week so I can check to see what codes I may have.

Any Ideas

I went back out and looked closer at my cable and it is 1 gauge. Based on charts I found and what you tell me I think it will work. Thanks

Walt

I'm trying to get this thing ready to start and I'm working on the battery cables now. I located the battery in the trunk. Back 20 years ago when I bought the cable, I got 2 gauge positive. Now I'm not sure that's heavy enough. It's about 13 feet to the starter. What do you guys think? The cable I have seems very heavy but I want this thing to start easily.

Thanks for checking. I might try fabbing some. As soon as I don't need them I'll find where I put the ones I took off. I had 2 cars, 1 coupe and 1 sedan and took the clips out of them, just can't find them.

I'm trying to find some window garnish moulding clips for my '48. Checs of the 40's has been sold out for a long time. I wish I could remember where I put mine when I took them off.

This is them; https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/dept/Interior/cat/Fasteners.html

I find what looks very similar for tri-5 chevys but they are 9 bucks each and I need 12 of them.

Any ideas?

Walt

That sounds cool. I'll check them out. Thanks for the tip.

Walt

I want to upgrade the lights on my '48. I'm looking at what Chevy's of the 40's has and they have an LED kit with glass headlights for $150. Anybody have experience with this or have any better suggestions?