Messages

No one has anything new to add? Awww, cmon....these boards are how I help visualize the "pipe dream". (TM)  

Root:
City Spring in OKC can make a spring for you as AV8 suggested.  They have the data for just about every car ever made.  The guys will keep arching or de-arching until it's just the way you want it.

Actually City Spring(Fleet Services Now) has made me some in the past. They never mentioned any books though. They just want to know how much arch at what centers and how many leaves. That's why I was thinking of using a production type of a spring, like a Posies etc.

So what do ya'll think about the new Magnum 5" drop?

Il will sure be low. My brother 348 tripower did get his 37 way low with just the durant monoleaf spring. If you really want a dropped axle i wouldnt go 5 inch its too low for your car. Do not use a tube axle either with split bones. I like the super bell cause its a little lighter than the magnum and tht gives it a little more give so the ride is better. I had a 29 a with a more drop in it and it rode like a caddy. Far as im concerned the dropped i beams ride just fine its the rear that takes some doing to get a good ride.
Dave

OK,now I am really confused. Isn't the Magnum made by Superbell? Or am I wrong? I thought I was wrong once but I was mistaken..........

Root:
City Spring in OKC can make a spring for you as AV8 suggested.  They have the data for just about every car ever made.  The guys will keep arching or de-arching until it's just the way you want it.

Actually City Spring(Fleet Services Now) has made me some in the past. They never mentioned any books though. They just want to know how much arch at what centers and how many leaves. That's why I was thinking of using a production type of a spring, like a Posies etc.

So what do ya'll think about the new Magnum 5" drop?

How much drop are the "Indadirt" setups?

Keep the stock axle and put in a Durnat Mono Leaf!

What leaf springs??

What you DON'T want is a front spring with reversed eyes, or you give up the safety leaf. A good spring shop like Betts (in the West) will make you a new spring pack with normal eyes and a safety leaf and set the arch to give you the equivalent drop of a reversed-eye spring. Check your Yellow Pages for a spring manufacturer near you.

I don't really know much about mono leafs, I have heard they are mushy.

Mike, any reccomendations on finding the amount of arch you would need?
I would hate to build a set of springs wrong.

I have been thrashing around , looking in all my catalogs, trying to figure out what would be the best/most economical setup for my 35-40 Ford frame. I know that there are pros and cons for all setups.
I want a 4"-6" dropped axle, retaining a 37 Ford set of bones. and a new Vega box.

What would be the best setup in your opinion? I know some axles are cast some are forged etc etc.

Super bell 4 inch dropped i beam.............flaming river box.


Dave

What leaf springs??

I have been thrashing around , looking in all my catalogs, trying to figure out what would be the best/most economical setup for my 35-40 Ford frame. I know that there are pros and cons for all setups.
I want a 4"-6" dropped axle, retaining a 37 Ford set of bones. and a new Vega box.

What would be the best setup in your opinion? I know some axles are cast some are forged etc etc.

I would also apply more than one coat on the first application. And three would be great. You may want to use 600 versus 400 to cut the clear that first time. You are really only smoothing out the orange peel and any dirt nibs. That's all they use at the PPG schools. Even 800! They (PPG) call that second application of clear a "flow coat" and it works great for custom paint applications.

About the only time problem you may run into would be reclearing the sanded clearcoat too soon. It should have no problem sticking to the 400 to 800 scratches, but if applied too soon - like in a few hours - you may have a blow up. I would say let it air out in good old outdoor air for at least 24 hours after sanding to let that new surface cure out. When you sand that clear you are opening up a new surface that is not cured completely and it now needs to cure out before recoating. If not allowed to cure you may have recoat lifting or at the least it will die back considerably.

Remember - you can get all kinds of information on PPG products by going to ppg.com.

Good luck.

Flow coat...yeah that's the term I was looking for. I remember that now. Thanks

I'd check to see what the recoat window is with whatever clear you use.  

I don't think the recoat window will be in effect here as you are sanding the surface and now will have a mechanical bite between the old and new clear and not a chemical one...

You're probably right.  My experience is pretty limited and paints are getting more sophisticated all the time.  Much of my experience is before catalyzed paints.  I don't know why, but even with catalyzed paints I had one job wrinkle in a spot when I sprayed a wet final coat over a freshly(one day) painted and sanded surface below.  I've also noticed that if coats are too thick and/or too soon recoated, I get solvent pop.  That doesn't really pertain to what Root asked about tho.  It wouldn't have happened if I'd have known what I was doing and wasn't so impatient.    

One other thing I've experienced is that, even tho 2 part primers and paints aren't supposed to shrink, they do....especially if all the coats were piled on in a short period of time.  For that reason if I was going for a perfectly flat paintjob, I would let the first coats cure for quite a while before wet sanding and recoating.

With all that said, I'm going to hurry back out to the shop and spray a coat of 2K primer on some parts of my truck so I can sand and paint tomorrow.  See what I mean about being impatient ....recoat window?....what's that?  ......gotta be ready to hit the road in 4 days.

Thanks for the info. I am closely monitoring both boards and forwarding the info to my buddy. He can read all this and decide what will work best for him.


Thanks again

Root

We are spraying a friends truck soon and a while back I had talked to the PPG reps at one of the shows.

They told me that one of the ways the higher end shops were getting the really good and flat paint jobs was to spray one coat of clear...medium to heavy, then let it dry, color sand with 400 grit then spray the last 2 coats, colorsand ...buff.

My question is: with temps averages from 85-high 90's and hhumidity around 50%, how long will I have to let it stand after the first coat before colorsanding? How long will it remain green? 24 hours?

This will be Deltron 2000 and the clear will be something compatible...he's unsure what he is going to buy yet.

Thanks in advance.
Root

Hi Root,

I also have a '35 pick-up.  Always like to talk pick-up's.  My truck is pretty much complete (finally).  Basics:   296 cu in flatmotor, C-4 tranny, MII front end, Ford 8" triangulated four link rear suspension.  My better half has a '35 3W coupe with a SBC.

Regards,
              Ron . . .

Nice truck....hope it's bigger in person....

Ummmmmmmm, NO! Hehhehehehheheheheheh!

Actually Root, there is one that lurks here on ocasion, but never posts. His 36 is Metallic green with a vette rear.

Hey, I still need to get one of your big truck front fenders if you can spare one for patch peices.

I don't have any big truck fenders...that I can remember?

I know Dirk35, but how about any of the others? Like to swap info, always looking for parts etc. I have several 36's.

Thanks

Root

Welcome from the downunder contingent.  That's a wild looking Model 'A'

Thanks boys and Denise ....I love to talk hotrods....anything I can help with let me know.

Who IS this "Root" character...and what did he do with his HAWG???    

The name Roothawg is trademarked......I had to settle for Root since I forgot my password. It sent my confirmation to the old IP address. Oh well....I'm a newbie.