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Hi I've just purchased a 290HP chev crate motor and want to run a T700R (non electronic) which flexiplate should I run 153 tooth or 168 tooth.  Why is there a difference??

Also with the T700 transmission I undertand there are two ways of locking the tansmission up - one is to have a switch on the dash and the other is to have the an internal switch activated by speed/revs ?? (not sure).

There are probably pros and cons to either method but can I get some comments on which is the better system??

Thanks Stephen

Thanks for your replies guys.  I might do all the above!.
Stephen

Sorry if this has been discussed before but I am in the process of buying some wheels and tires for for my '37. The selection I am proposing is front tires 25.5" diameter and rear 28.7" diameter.  

The options for a spare wheel as I see it are - pressure pack type puncture repair, a tire the same diameter as the front wheel or a tire that is between the front and rear wheel.  I do not know how effective the pressure pack would be.  I like the idea of having a spare wheel in the car and having a spare wheel the same as the front would be easy to fit in the trunk but I am not sure about the impact of a smaller wheel on the diff.  What do you think??

Stephen

an air gap manifold might be too much for a moderate cam ..

got more info on end use..

drag strip only car..

local street only car..

street and highway cruiser where you expect some MPG..


there are lots of smart people on this forum..

we could use more info on final use.. and on things like expected engine rpm..  or tire size.. gear ratio.. transmission type.. torque converter stall speed..

which heads.. casting number.

stock manifolds or headers..


you have multiple carb types..

quadrajets.. new and used ... new might still be available..

original carter carbs... used and rebuilt..

various edelbrock   avs..  

summit has a summit label version of the holley with a a one piece top cover that is very user friendly.. which is actually a modern version of the autolite 4100 which is the 4 barrel version of the 2100 .. but with holley treatment..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08600VS/?rtype=10


there is so much in choosing a carb.. or just tossing on one and going from there..

some more info on end use.. will really help with some of the selection issues..

i am not trying to talk you out of a road demon..

Thanks everyone for your replies.

The car will essentially be a street car but we will use it to go to events so I need to keep fuel consumption in mind.  

What I have in train at the moment is:
350 chev 1987 block - currently standard bore but may require 030 bore
World product s/r cast heads (I have been carting them around for the last 10 years so need to use them)
T700R4 auto
rear end ratio - somewhere around 3.5 - 3.7
Rear tires 28.7" diameter
modified hooker block huggers
Cam choice has not been made but I was considering one of the comp cam range but it is confusing? :?

Stephen

Hi
I am hoping some knowledgeable people can help - I am looking for a suitable carb for my '37 project.  The engine is a 350 chev, mild/moderate cam timing, possible air gap intake manifold and I was considering a Barry Grant Road Demon around 650cfm.  They appear to cost more than holleys etc - is the additional cost justified?? that is, are there performance benefits or ease of tuning etc to warrant the cost?
Thanks
Stephen

Hi
I have not posted since 2009 but I have occasionally lurked just to see what is going on.  A lot of life has got in the way over the last few years including 5 house moves in three years and a very busy job.  

On the car front my 66 mustang that I purchased off ebay (US) (I am in Australia) is still going with little attention - it is amazing how reliable it is after 46 years.  My '37 Ford Club Coupe has seen some progress - chassis is mostly completed, body work is also completed but I have it in a local rod shop for some further work as I unfortunately do not have enough time to work on it myself but have a plan to drive it to the Australian Streetrod Nationals Easter 2013.

Now that things are moving along with the '37 I was wanting some advice on which company or companies are the best for sourcing reproduction bits and pieces.  Which ones sell cheap junk and which have some quality to them - this car is going to last me a while.

On another note, I am intending to use a T700 pre computer transmission (given the rising price of gas) (the car is more nostalga style so no computer gear).  The motor will be a 350 chev making around 350 but not more than 400 HP.  Any suggestions on who sells a good reliable well built unit would be appreciated.

Thanks for your replies.

Stephen

I used an insulation product that Lobucrod is producing and selling and I couldn't be happier.  In fact, it worked so well that I was alittle bummed driving Big Olds from Austin, TX to Nashville, TN last Dec.  It was very cold and Big Olds doesn't have heat.  I normally get quite a bit of heat from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment BUT since the installation of his heat and sound deadening product, I've gotten none.  Was a cold ride.

The insulation is a fraction of the cost of Dynamat.

http://www.lobucrod.com/

Tell him you're a pal o mine

Hi Denise
This stuff sounds great, roughly how much did it take to insulate the Olds, I want to get some insulation/sound deadening for my 66 mustang coupe.
Steve

Hope someone can help me out here.  I have been looking for a '61-63 falcon here in Australia and stumbled onto the two door falcons (not hardtops but would consider one if the price was right) in the US (ebay) and now I am thinking seriously of importing one to Australia - as long as the cost fits my budget!  I want to use it as a frequent driver.

Some specifications:

I want to purchase a good running/driving car (maybe licensed/registered) with limited or preferably no rust (if that is a reality) paint can be a bit worn, no major collision damage - a few dent etc expected, generally original running gear/mechanicals but modification will be OK depending upon what they are, interior including hoodlining should be servicable and not require a huge amount of work, electrical components work, chrome work complete and generally in Ok condition.

I have a shipping contact in Orange CA so shipping from somewhere near by would be good but I am prepared to ship a good car from almost anywhere if necessary.
Hope someone can help out
Thanks
Steve

Thanks Daryle, I'm after the retro look and was concerned about the clear lens but seeing in the dark is important.  I'm inclined to go with the Drake kit as I have a couple of sets of headlight lenses in great condition and it seems a pity to have to sell them.
Steve

Thanks Pep you kind of answered my next question before I asked it!!  Where did you buy the julianos kit?? - Is the light output from the sealed beams more/better than the bulbs??  Was the ability to move/focus the main reason for going for the sealed beams?? Is there and difference between sealed beams for LHD and RHD cars - especially direction/movement of headlight beam from low to high beam or can the adjustments take care of this??
Thanks
Steve

Sum
I noticed in recent magazines that TCI (I think) is advertising some new valve to reduce the possiblity of destroying a 700R4 though poor cable adjustment, do you know anything about this?  are they worthwhile?  I am going to use a 700R4 but the thought of potentially destroying a rebuilt box just scares the ***t out of me.

Steve

Does any one have any recommendations for a headlight kit for '37 fords - passanger cars.  I want to use halogen bulbs/or sealed beams and my orginal buckets and would prefer not to spend big $...s but good lighting at night is a huge plus.  Bob Drake and Julianos have them - anyone use them any comments/problems??

Steve

I met Don in 2004 when Neil and visited the US and am very saddened to hear of his passing.  Don was a gentleman and great hotrodder and will be greatly missed.

Steve

No car related pressies but I did buy myself a Rich Chenet hotrod calendar.  Santa didn't bring me that chopped 'n' channelled model A coupe or tudor - either would do - I'm not fussy!!
Steve

A number of the net calculators I have used tell me that ratios of 3.7 or 3.89 (tires 235/75R15 which are about 28.5") should be right, but have also been told that 3.5's are a better choice.
Steve