Messages

$1.67 at costco today!!

i was pretty empty and i filled it for under $40. i'm going to enjoy it while it last because i know it won't.

later jim

1.24 at stop and shop with points reward nice too fill Z-71 for 24 bucks instead of 112.00

Thanks guys it goes like a bat out of hell...but looks like grandmas car.  23MPG also.  Sorry to say its not mine anymore.

Just a little better way to do it is get a T-5 out of a camaro.  Now if you need the shifter in the position that s-10 does just use the back half off the s-10 on the camaro trans.  Its a bit beefer trans the camaro.  I have a s-10 box behind a 235 for about 17 years and it works great.  You are correct you need to cut the pilot and the throw out sleve. Just coppy a input shaft and bearing retainer from any 3 speed or 4 speed box  But you also may have to cut about 3/16 or 1/4 inch off the trans side of the disc if you use the s-10 box...camaro uses the stock spline s-10 fine spline(21 maybe) . Now if you want to use a 10 inch clutch use a stock presure plate.  Now you have to use the disc out of a 80s 4 cyl jeep its 9 15/16 but works fine.  Check the speedo also some are mech some are electric.  You can put a gear on the rear shaft if it electric.  Good swap done a lot of them. S-10 box wont take much more than 200 hp

Hey thats a cool trick...Thanks!

This was a calif original black plate car. Completly stock.  I did  not even paint it.  A/C stang II Chevy crate ram jet with a 4 speed  3pedal car.
60580effc3-.jpg[/img]

This is my 36 chevy sedan project .  I stipped the paint and was a amazed.
I welded 1 patch in this body the size of a dime.  Everbody that walked into the shop said it was the nicest straight 36 dolorene they ahd eve seen.  I wish i did not have to paint it.  I dont get to build stuff this nice very often but i have had 2 in a row now.27,000 original miles  the 37 i finished had 29,000.

How do you get the plates inside and hold them to plug weld them.  Do one end at a time?  ust interest as that real clean looking.  You gonna run running boards?

No offense taken. There is an internal plate at each weld. 4" long on all four sides. It's plug welded into all four sides of the tube. Then, since there was a backer plate inside, I spaced the tube 1/8" apart at the joint, and laid in a full penetration bead.  With all this, I feel confident it will last.

I looked at NASCAR truck arms, but mine are going to be a bit oddly shaped, and if I was going to cut them up, it was just as cheap to start from scratch.

Cool i like the way you think.....grest job and stick with these ADS. That a good idea with the intrenal plates plug welded..... it looks so much better.  More pix please as i love this ole ADs.Whats up front?

Frank its been a long time... tried too stop some of Neg stuff.
Hey your gonna love the truck arms on air i did one a couple years ago with NASCAR(free) truck arms and the truck hooks up good and rides great.
Now dont take this wrong as i know you know frames but are you gonna put diamonds on the angles were you did your kick ups.  It really makes it strong.
The fluffed and buffed welds get weak even with .120 wall.
Glad you not going the 2x2 .083 that i have seen some guys do.  The twist real bad.
Hope you dont take anything wrong.....just what i have seen.

Got one on paper now to try and use the full bunch off wide five old stuff and quick change i have from some of my old pavement mods.......love to see AAA come out and change a tire...LOL    Later and good luck!

Stamping a code is something i have done for 30+ years.  It keeps the customer honest and wards off theft..  It also helped a guy get his Harley back many years ago.  When i was building ole harley stuff i would stamp my code on every part of the bike(mind you this was when harleys were not yuppie sleds but cheap fun) It also saved me from a big fine at a NASCAR race,they teched my carb and said it was illegal...well i knew it was a little tight on the rules but it had passed before.  I asked to see were it did not meet spec...sure enough it was not my carb and i showed the guy were mine was marked ...I got away that time.
Funny thing i also stamp ever peice of equipment i buy and also got a stolen welder back after many years.
On normal builds i try to use the same new parts over and over again.  Like trans mounts 69 z-28.  Motor mounts 69 z-28 and on and on.  I have the part# stapled to the back side of one of my cabenits near the phone when i call the parts store.  I give most customers a laminated parts list if they get stuck on the road for wheel bearings ,seal ,starters,alt, that sort of thing.  It takes a little more time but also helps me if i dont see the car for 5-10 years.
Freezer bags and those cheap blue containers are great!  Hell my 56 chevy has lived in those now for 6 maybe 7 years LOL :?
Now the digital camera is the way to go on this odd cars  Like my Nash or that ole airflow.

Get one from a mustang and it will be a bolt in.

Anybody have any pixs?  I am not fimiliar with the term and have built and raced or driven about eveything out there.  How did this one get by  LOL Maybe we call it a diff name here on the east coast?  I dont get street rodder so i guess i missed out on something good.
If it locates the axle a long panhard bar is hard to beat.  Watts links work the best but would look pretty dumb up front and a real * to mount.
Maybe its like a jacobs ladder?
Please no pixs of dead fish those we have here  LOL

I got it direct in 2003..... with a middle man i can see why the price is higher.
  I am sure its jig welded but i cut the perches off to put 8 degrees of caster in it becaue i think it had 0.
I just did not want a stack of wedges under the spring.  i dont run a lot of rake in the chassis either so i am sure if you run the nose a lot lower than the rear the problem will be worse.  thats why i say tell them to leave the perches loose.  that way you can set the castor and weld them on for your likes.  i like about 6-8 degrees on these ADs and a short pitman arm.(about 2-3 inches shorter )  they drive well like that.  done a bunch of them.