Messages

Thanks walt.   i worked with what metal i had laying around and decided to use the engine stand like you did but in the front.with this setup i cant tilt the body perfectly on it side.but its still very workable. started cutting the rusted rocker supports and welding them in today.thurs and fri finishing up the supports then grinding and repairing odds and ends on the bottom.  
question- on the bottom of the car mostly all of the undercoating is gone and its mostly heavy surface rust.im going to sand-grind off most i can. what have you used and recommend i use after doing this? primers?epoxy?

well finally got the body off the frame and made a rotisseri so i can start on the bottom of the car

I think i might as well go with the( chassis engin) bolt on kit.so i dont have to worry about any mistakes with the weld in kit.thanks for all the help so far from all of you.i'm sure i will have more questions down the road.till then im going to concentrate on some of the metal work and the start on the frame and order the ifs kit  

sorry still a little bit confused :? (thats why we are here i hope) if i set the frame where i want it with the rake how does it affect where i weld the crossmember. i dont want to sound like an idoit ,but i want to do this the correct way.I dont have the rear yet and dont know what wheels and rubber i'll be useing.  should i wait till i get the rear then go from there? or should i  just weld the kit square to the frame? remember this is my first project with frame and suspention work and want to learn all that i can so this car will be driveable and enjoyable

ok here are other before i order the mustang11 kit .when i weld this kit on is it going to be lower in the front than it is now stock?  
also they said on there site when installing the front spring crossmember (is this the top pieces ,upper control arm area or  the lower control arm area or i assume they mean the whole kit top and bottom pieces of the crossmember?) take into account the final front axle caster settings.car at normal ride height will be 5-7degrees positive(tipped back at top) :? whats tipped back at top?? normal chassis rake approx.3-5 degrees.(how is this done? ) if you install the front crossmember square with the chassis you will lose some castor angle.they suggest you tip crossmember back 7-10 degrees.so that final front end alignment can be made without binding up the spring and shackles. do i need to worry about this? opinions and suggestions.they also have pivoting spring perches for adjustment if you welded crossmember flat. ( little confused i looked at them and cant figure out what they do and where they go)

thanx enjenjo for the info. when i weld this kit is it has to be in the same spot as the oringinal center to center 116"  also do i need to remove the steering box or can i adapt it to this kit.or do i have to get a new steering box?  I would like to use the oringial column and steering wheel if i can.if thats to difficult ill use one from the donor car i get

Well ive decided to go with the mustangII IFS kit. ive found a kit from speedway motors.mustangII tubular control arm ifs .for $1379 within my budget. it has different options which i need some opinions and guideance.
1.shocks or coilovers?
2.bolt pattern 5x4-1/2" or 5x4-3/4" ?
3.standard or 2"dropped spindles(id like the car to have a low rake)?
 another thing they ask is what spring weight i need and i dont know.it has to do with what motor i use correct? if i use a 350 for example.they have for coil overs-700lb-600lb-500lb+350lbs.   for spring with shock 500lb-425lb+350lbs. i dont know very new to me :?
you can also get the kit with 1" narrower tubular control arms???

MII KITS who sells these?  any pointers on doing the clip?how you did it would be great. pm me with info thanx. more ideas and comments are needed I might go either way more research and info needed. im glad you guys can help me otherwise id proably still be scratching my head  :?

thanks for all this information,which is helpful.i saw a Heidts superide 2 kit $2,599 (street rod headquaters) which i think is a little steep!!dont know if its weld on or bolt on?it seems to have all the componets that are needed. any one here used this setup?   remember this car will be driven alot and i need it reliable and easy to get parts also.im still not sure which way to go,nova clip form donor car (which i can also use the motor,trans,rear,poss interior,steering column etc.)Ive restored some cars in the past but never started a rod project like this so bear with what seems like the same ???over and over.just trying to find the best way without over spending on a driver on a limited budget

ok so if i go the mustang suspention ,which is the better way to go bolt on or weld on i have seen both.after that suspention is in what is the next thing that has to be done ,bought etc?   and another ? i need to get a rear also what do you suggest-mustang camaro or nova rear  or?

I was staying away from the bolt o weld on kits that are avalible(price) if i did go that way what else would be needed (sterring col.etc??) or if i went with the sub frame what would be the way to start this?matting subframe to 47 frame,im up to the challenge  enjo suggested a extended cab toyota pickup which he said was almost a perfect fit but the frame has to be stretched 4" then id have to mount a 350 to that and need a rear also.  my mind is going in so many places so thats why all the ?? your input is so helpfull thanx

H i all.I have a 47 chevy stylemaster cp.and i was thinking of doing a frame swap with a g-body chassis(monte carlo,olds cutlass etc).I was told not a good swap by some members .he gave me some ideas as how to go about useing that frame.might be too much of a hassel?? is there another vechicles frame besides the toyota truck frame.or would it be easier to use a nova,camaro subframe and weld to existing 47 frame.i would like to use as many existing parts from the donor vechicle as posible(engine,sterring,  rear, poss electric).if i use the subframe any help as to go about doing this would help a lot.as where to cut frame.measurements etc    thanx

enjenjo,thanks for your responces.if the (g-body) frame isnt to suitable for the 47 and the toyota is.my question is there any other vechicles frame and running gear that i could use,as i want to use basicly all the componets minus the body to put the 47 body on.I really dont want to get into buying to many different parts(motor rear front clip etc.)i was thinking of a cadillac frame also but wheel center to center is 114" when i need 116".any more ideas would be helpfull thanx

enjo,your talking about a toyota pickupm frame that has to be stretched 4"   in what way?   the monte carlo frame is not a smart move? I was thinking of useing the chassis,running gear,electric ,motor and trans. if i use the toyota can i still use a v8/350? all new to me

Im thinking about useing a 78-88 monte carlo/buick regal/olds cutlass/pont grand prix  rolling chassis? any comments or ideas please let me know thanx