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I've had good luck with eastwoods stainless paint on manny folds.


I have used black BBQ hi-temp paint on mufflers and tail pipes  with good service

Yes I use Eastwoods brush on stainless paint on freshly bead blasted manifolds and welded headers. I just wipe down the rest of the pipes with thinner and brush it on.. I've had good luck with it.

I want to use a 3x2 setup on my SBC.  I would like to have a setup that uses EFI but systems like the Moon system ($US3600) is way out of my price range.  Do any of you know of any other systems - I am looking mainly for the hardware components like throttle bodies etc that look like the old carbie systems.

If it all gets to difficult I will be happy to use a triple carbie setup.  I have checked a few sites on the net but have no idea of the reliability of the supplier or the system being offered.  From what I can determine the triple rochester appears to be the best system.  Does anyone have experience of which carbie setup is the best (if that is possible - reliability is a big factor as I do not want to spend hours and hours trying to work out how to tune the things) and which suppliers are reliable and reasonably priced.

Thanks

Steve

I have no specifics but this is fuel injected. The electronic port injectors are hidden under the log manifold. The carbs are used strictly for their butterflies. The throttle position sensor is mounted in the rear on the linkage. The black hat behind the thermostat housing is the fuel pressure regulator that feeds the fuel rails in the valley.The same idea as the converted mechanical injection systems. It may not work in your application but just another idea to stir the juices.

Whenever the words voltmeter or ammeter are uttered there is that bizarre reaction similar to discussions involving front steer vs rear steer, carb vs injection, stick vs auto, drums vs disks.

For some reason utterly beyond my comprehension there is a belief that an ammeter is the fire breathing dragon and a voltmeter the knight in shining armour.  

Most of the criticism directed towards ammeters has been based on fault conditions of poor installations, when it should have been directed at the installation rather than the device.  No one has raised the issue of what happens when a fault occurs in a voltmeter attached directly to the ignition switch and the main feed does not have a fusible link.

The reality is that they are simply electrical devices and if correctly installed either is safe: if poorly installed both are dangerous.

If there is something intrinsically unsafe about conductors carrying large currents then every automobile with trunk mounted battery would have burned to the ground, there would be smoke pouring from vehicles with a seven pin trailer socket, and dash mounted cigarette lighter sockets would have been banned by insurers.  

Modern alternators with electronic regulators control are extremely reliable, and in the vast majority of applications there is no need for a meter at all.  In the unlikely event a battery goes flat from lack of charge generally the outcome is a mild inconvenience, however if an engine losses oil pressure the outcome is far more serious yet people are quite happy to place their trust in a low pressure light.

Yes I agree. Ammeter is a buzz word.  I do put in a fusible link in the 10 ga. wire not for fear that the ammeter will fail but for fear that the highly reliable alternator might fail. (again) I had an alternator short out while driving. The 10 ga wire carried every amp left in the battery staight to ground inside the alternator. The old SW ammeter handled the load with no problem, unfortunately. Even without an ammeter the charging circuit would have melted all the wires in the loom. A cheap fusible link would have blown instantly saving the wires. I don't think anyone would think that a GM alternator is dangerous. I don't but, a fusible link is cheap insurance. IMHO

[exact]

Since it's OBDII (96 and up)the light will come back on after about 50 miles. The rear sensor will sense that the converter is gutted and kick a code. We have to use the more expensive OBDII converter in the exact location to prevent come backs.

Another word of caution many of the cheaper aftermarket converters say OBDII "compliant"  My supplier cautions me about trying to use one where the more expensive PT# is specified in the catalog. I don't like comebacks and use the aftermarket converter that the company recommends in their catalog. It's worked so far.

Gutting the converter may make it run better but you may not have fixed the problem. Usually it's excess fuel that doesn't burn in the cylinders and travels down to the converter where it burns and melts the substrate. Faulty O2 sensors or tune up problems can cause this.

If it were my sons car I'd replace all the O2 sensors and the converter that was tested and aproved for that application. It's the old "do it once" theory

I made a lot of money in the 80's removing converters and making custom dual exhaust. It's a whole new ballgame now. None of the old standards apply anymore on post 1996 vehicles

I use the Eastwood kit in a free (I like free) oven in the garage. Eastwood sells silcone plugs for holes and heat resistant tape for machined sufaces. It is messy in a localized area. A shop vac works for me. It's no more messy than a spray bomb and a heck of a lot better than a spray gun. I love the fact that you only have to wait 20 mins for the part to cool before you can continue to assemble it or mount it.

I use the oven timer so that I can do other things while it cures. I have to leave the garage to prevent dirt if I paint something. The easy set up and clean up makes doing 1 small part much less of a hassle.

The carb bases are done in the black wrinkle. I like contrasts in color and texture. The aluminum intake and cast iron thermostat housing are done in cast aluminum.

To have R&P steering I would have to engineer it myself as no one makes a kit that I'm aware of. The next best thing is a "modern" steering box. Question is, what steering box works well in a '57 Fairlane using the original linkage?

I spoke with a guy that used a Taurus rack and pinnion on his 57. It fit beautifully with simple brackets off of the front cross member. 2 u joints connect it to the original shaft at the fire wall. It looked good and he loved it. The hardest part would be a bearing to keep the shaft centered in the cut off steering tube. Food for thought.

amazing.. maybe someones primative attempt at sound deadening ?

Mine had the L.A. Times and the L.A. Mirror Jan 28 1952. Both doors and rumble seat lid are stuffed full. I pulled some for framing but I'll never remove the bulk of it. When I looked at the car the first time my buddy thought the doors were fiberglass when closing them. I bet there is a very different sound when you shut the doors now. I'm keeping mine as proof of an early L.A. connection.

Does anyone know of a company or companies that make reproduction vintage license plates? I wan to register my F-1 with YOM plates but California Commercial plates are difficult to find, particularly so in pairs and in good condition.

I've found a couple excellent single plates . . . just need someone to re-pop one.

TIA

Mike

This is an aluminum repro from the company in Florida. He advertizes in the color pages of Hemmings. I wanted 1951 but he did not have the dies for that year. The shape is different.

Cool tool.

I love knocking out inventive stuff like you've shown.

Just about to finish up on what I hope will be an interesting little gadget.
Machine work is done, welding today - not much - and I should know by this afternoon if it works.

I'll post the info one way or the other.

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I look forward to seeing what you're up to, Jay.

I've considered running a pair of 2GVs on a flathead with progressive linkage like that used on the Chevy BWs and 2/4 Corvettes -- the one with and adjustable rod that slides in a C-shaped stirrup on the second carburetor and begins opening its throttle after the throttle in the master carburetor is halfway or more open. Sort of like a 4-bbl with mechanical secondaries.

What bearings, seals etc. do I need to adapt '56 Ford pick up brakes to early Ford spindles?

Thanks,

Don

Timken 14116 inner bearing (needs to be fitted to the spindle)
CR 15214 seal
stock Ford outer bearing

I think I have a 40 Column, I know I have a 47 column, I also have  some 15" Ford truck wheels. Let me know.

Will this wheel work on the 47 column (or a 40)? Does it have a column shifter that could be adapted to the tranny in the other post?

I may be able to get the wheels locally, I'll let you know.

yes it will., and yes it has a column shift.

The wheel will fit the shaft, but the bell on the 40-48 column won't be the correct size for the 39 hub. (it's larger in dia.) You can make a new tube from 1 1/2 exhaust tube and add the shifter. You'll need to bell the end slightly to match the 39 hub.

Are you sure you have 34 doors? 1934 was the first year that the glass would slide to the rear leaving an opening in front to serve as a vent. Then it would go down into the door.   33 doors are similar but don't have this feature and would use different glass run channels.

34 doors have the last inch or so at the back of the window opening blocked off for the gass run channel.

I would bear in mind that they were stock on a '48 Ford. Their wishbone had a larger ear at one shackle mount for that use. The '48 wishbone I don't think is a direct replacement for the '46 but it should fit your axel. Maybe with the quicker steering attributed to the power steering it might be something worth considering. GPster

I was taught that a stabilizer was an add on to cover up a problem rather than fix the problem. When I got my roadster it had an add on stabilizer on the stock wishbone set up that I immediately cut off.

I've gone over the front end and balanced the new tires and I still get a shimmy from time to time. I'll probably add one (hopefully a littler neater installation) to prevent it from happening again. I have to admit it didn't shimmy until I cut it off.  I've never needed one on any other front end set up.

True that mechanical pumps traditionally didn't have filters ahead of them while electric pumps can be pretty intolerant of any crud.  I like those filters, who makes/sells them?

They are flea market items. I don't know if they are still making them. I think these are generic after markets replacements from the 40's-50's I'm a sucker for little old looking trinkets.

They aint just whistlin Dixie, I had one break going down the road, almost had a BBQ. Buy a nice billet one you can take apart if you need to se the crud  48 suburban

I don't think a mechanical pump needs much filter protection. I worry about the carb/s. I've had lots of dirt in the carb problems but it has never affected a mech. pump. I like the old timey look of a sediment bowl filter and the reasons you mentioned. They were used for decades.  Our throw away society eliminated them, but the throw away filters are so ugly.  Just my solution.

An electric pump would be different of course.

P.S. this is from a steamfitter...ain't no s*** in my pipes