Messages

Thanks for the rapid response.
WZ Junk this is exactly the info I was looking for, thanks!

34Ford, I would appreciate a copy of the template.

This may be a dumb question, but are there different length arm geometries at the throttle shaft depending on TH350 for Kickdown and 700r4 for Throttle valve cable?

Need to mod a throttle body for 3 connections, throttle, trans and cruise.
originally manual trans, switching to 700R4 and cruise. Have shaft from older Qjets in parts box. thought about grafting lever setup onto newer shaft but I think the ones I have are for 350 kickdown.

I suppose I could probably get a replacement shaft with correct setup but would rather reuse something I have for free if possible.

The vin for my donor chassis is 1GTCS14Z9RK517093
which does make it a 94.

In a case of brilliance I peeled the Service Parts Identification sticker from the glove box and kept it, so I even have all the RPO codes.

The canister is in the rear, so using your hint I browsed the newer models and got the kind of information I was looking for.

It seems to be some sort of vent, likely used to vent tank when engine is not running. There where two different options, one connecting to a valve mounted on the frame and another running up into the wheel well.
I am putting my money on the vent line attached to wheel well, sort of like the diff vent, this would explain why the hose was cut when the box was taken off.

The line has something about the size the end of my thumb on the inside of the fuel pump, I am guessing it is a valve that closes when ever any vacuum is applied fuel pump or purge and opens to vent the tank when engine is not running.

This should work well as my project involves dropping a 48 Chevy pickup body onto this frame and powering it with a 5.7L TPI injected engine.
I can use an inline purge valve and keep the canister in the rear, One less thing to clutter up the engine bay.

again  thanks); );b(

I am working on a 94 S10 donor chassis and I am having  a problem determining one of the lines function.

This unit has a square canister mounted near the gas tank.

The gas tank/fuel pump has 4 connections, fuel supply, fuel return, gas filler vent line and a line that goes to the canister.

The canister has 3 lines, labeled on the canister as tank (previously mentioned line), Purge which runs up to engine compartment and a 3rd line labeled air.

It is this 3rd line that puzzles me. What is its function, where does it connect?

Thanks

Well after an excessively long absence I can finally get back to my passion. Cars, cars, cars.

Normally a lurker, but as I get back into the grove I find I need some
help. While I was inactive someone butchered the passenger side steering arm on my 1994 S10 chassis (2 wheel drive).

Does anyone have access to Hollander, and could you check if there are any other GM vehicles that use the same spindle.

Thanks
Overdrive

*** Lurk Mode OFF ***
Well is seems like it's time to return to 'the source off all knowledge' again

Does anyone know what kind of coating is put on bare metal patch panels.

You can leave them sitting around and they don't develope flash rust, but if I clean sheet metal ( sandblast or electrolysis) and don't paint it right away it soon begins to show surface rust. I don't want to have to keep sanding of paint to do welding and repairs, but don't want rust either.


Help!!!

My car club is out of Winnipeg Mb in Canada and puts on a small (110 car) show. I am getting requests for show merchandise from a
Raymond K McIntosh 605 Waimea Road Nelson 7001 NEW ZEALAND
using  raymond.m@xtra.co.nz as an email address.

This seems a little unusual and I suspect a phishing scam or something similar.  Does anyone happen to know this individual ?


Thanks
Overdrive

Thanks for the timely replies.
Had to keep turning past Acc with paper clip inserted but finally got it
out. Now just need to find a replacement. Hot lead to Sol connection
not working so no starter.

Thanks again.

Help needed.
I am having a problem with removing the lock cylinder on
on one of my vehicles. The ignition switch is mounted in the
dash, not on the column and I cannot seem to get it out.
The bezel on the front which holds switch into dash seems
to rotate freely and as far as I can tell is held to switch by
shoulder of lock cylinder. Lock cylinder has a small hole
beside key slot and when in Acc position you can insert a
small screwdriver and press something in (does not depress in
Off or Run) but I cannot get cylinder to come out.

Can anyone give me the process.
Oh yeah the ignition switch is GM

Thanks
Overdrive

I appreciate the invite, we leave chilly Winnipeg on Feb 16, and expect to be returning through St. Louis Tues Mar 1. I would love to get together, to see your car & shop or just for coffee and gab. Expect to hit St. Louis around Supper Time and plan to stay at Comfort Inn on Lindbergh Blvd. If you could either PM me or email me at bob.workman@shaw.ca with phone number I can contact you when we get there. Had not planned on staying long (just overnight) in St. Louis as it is middle of week and most people are working but would love a chance to meet fellow Rodders.

Bob

I cant really think of any car stuff goin on around St. Louis anytime soon. If you are real bored i could take you around to look at all my buddys projects and shops.

Lets see, you can see my car.
The upolstry guy always has somethin cool in his shop.
The Plymouth guy is building like 4 different cars in his body shop.

You can go up in the arch. Usually theres a long line. At least the times ive been there, but they also have a museum under the arch too.

Ill try to think of more stuff to do around here.

Nick

LURK MODE OFF

"Activate the Escape Pod Mr. Christian"

Well we have finally tired of the snow and cold so my wife and I are going to try get away for a couple of weeks starting mid Feb. We will be heading down to Atlantic Beach NC and then Myrtle Beach,SC finally returning home to Manitoba via St Louis.

Looking for some hints on important things to see (wife speak) for any good Hot Rod shops, Car related activities or coffee get togethers I can crash.

Bob

If your HOME PAGE has been altered you can restore/change it from the TOOLS/INTERNET OPTIONS general page. I use the right hand button myself ( Use Blank page) as IE does not even have to access the net to come up. If you have a specific page you want just navigate to it and use the left (use current) button.

This setting can be altered without putting anything on your machine, several sites ask do you want to make "my junkie page"  your home page an Presto Chango you always open to that page when you start IE and if it is a hostile page you are dead.

Good luck
Overdrive :b-d:

You don't mention if it is a truck or car you want to put the motor into.
I put a 58 235 in my 51 Chev pickup. The only thing I had to do was to change the front mounting plate. The 58 used side mounts, the 51 uses a front mount. It just bolts off one and onto the other. You can of course just drill the required holes in the 58 front plate. No trouble with the water pump, it is the later 235 that where longer. If you do need to change the pump, keep the plate fron the back. Mine had been removed earlier by someone else and the rebuilt did not come with one. Ended up drilling the extra hole in plate from 51.

As an extra, pull the long bolts that secure the valve cover from the old engine and install them in the new 235. This allows you to use the 51 valve cover. Makes it a bit of a sleeper.  

The new pressure oil system is much nicer than the old splash oiler.
You will have to use an aftermarket oil pressure guage or get the guage from a 54 to handle the higher pressure ( up to 60 psi).


Good luck
Overdrive :b-d: