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I guess what bothered me the most was Kanter's unwillingness to fix the problem.
It was more like, it's your problem, not ours.

My father was a small business man most of his life and that was not how I was taught to keep customers.

I haven't looked at it real closely yet, but it seems that the front of the carpet from Kanter will fit against the firewall and the rear piece from Kanter will go just under the rear seat. Which leaves a gap a little less than 24" under the front seat, which will actually only show from the seat out to the sill plates.
My hope is to go under both of those pieces with the filler carpet.
But it may be as you said and be to thick.

When looking for carpet for my car, I settled on Kanter, because their claim was guaranteed premolded perfect fit.
So, I called and described the car as a 1949 Dodge Coronet Club Coupe.
The 5 window Coupe, not the 3 window Business Coupe
Well, sure enough, what came is probably made for the business cpe because it's almost 24" short front to back.
I called and we talked an I sent pictures and they wanted me to send in the old carpet to use as a pattern, which I didn't want to do because I didn't fit anyhow.
Then I suggested that they send a 24" wide piece of carpet to cover the gap, which, thinking back was a mistake on my part. They said if I wanted to wait another 4 to 6 weeks they would see about it. Things started going downhill then. I told them they should satisfy their current customers before they move on to the next ones.
Bottom line is; I had the charge removed from my credit card, ordered a matchimg piece from another, that came 3 days later.
I bought carpet to fit. They agreed to sell carpet that fit.
That didn't happen and they should have sent a UPS Shipper Return to send it back.
Needless to say, I'm not happy with them!!!

That's the answer I wanted to hear

What do you guys normally use to hold the carpet in place?
It has to be removable to get to the master cylinder.

On another note, what is the general feeling of Kanter Auto Parts?

My health has gotten to the point that I'm only a lurker anymore, but I enjoy watching what you guys are doing.
MERRY CHRISTMAS one and all

Are you sure that's right about rotation.
I took the motor apart because it wouldn't run, and one brush spring needed to be streched to put enough pressure on the brush to make good contact.
But it runs backwards to what it should, no matter which I hook it up.
Either way it runs ccw when looking face on to the shaft.
Even tho it's not a whole lot of money, this is probably the worst thing I've bought on eBay and the guy tells me how honest he is.
The motor wouldn't run, the fan hit the case so hard the motor wouldn't have turned it anyhow, and the motor turns the wrong way

Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear.

Hi;
Actually it's am vintage 1940's or early 50's car heater.
Just a 6 volt fan motor and I'll use a Rheostat switch to control the fan speed.
I'v got it all apart painting it now or I would post a picture.

I'll post a picture as it was when I bought it on ebay, and you'll probably see why I'm painting it.

I'm putting a Harrison 6 volt in our '49 Dodge that has the original 6volt positive ground system.
Question is, which lead goes to power and which lead goes to ground?

You are really doing some nice looking work. Keep the pictures coming please.

Thanks Jim.
That was an interesting read.

Question.
What's your best guess of how many revolutions a fuel dragster engine turns per run, counting burn outs?

So, I went to my local parts store and bought a set of front rotors this afternoon. I'll put them on tomorrow.
Again, thanks for the advice.

Thanks for the info.
I suspected they were making them lighter. We had the same problem with a 2000 Cavalier, but I was hoping it was because it was a cheap little car and the truck would be a little more heavy duty. Guess not.