Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - rick 36dodge

#1
The engine I am running is a 68 327 Chevy 300 HP. I have put a 350 crank in and bored .030. I have the camel hump heads with the small valves and flat top pistons.  
I think my compression ratio is about 10 to 1. I am not sure. I run 93 because I have tried 87 and had a lot of ping. I run as much timing as I can , about 10 initial with a total of about 38 plus 10 vacuum. It also comes in very early. My biggest thing is I want as much power and gas milage as I can get.  
Thanks for the link I will read it all. No matter how much we know there is still a lot to learn !  
Thanks, Rick Harris
#2
What octane fuel are you using and what is your compression ratio ?
What is the highest compression ratio you can run regular, mid-grade and 93 ?
The average fuel price here in Columbus, GA  is  regular is $2.70 , $2.80 mid and $2.90 for 93.
Thanks, Rick Harris.
#3
Quote from: "phat rat"
Quote from: "rick 36dodge"I was thinking about going to electric fan in place of my 6 bladed fan.  I have a 350 SBC with A/C in my 36 Dodge. I have a Walker Cobra-Z radiator. I have no cooling problems now even in traffic at 100 degrees. I thought I might pick up a few more HPs by going electric. I have a 105 amp CS-130 alternator , so I don't have a problem with powering the fan. I have a 10" pusher fan for the A/C condenser.    
What do you guys think ? Give me the good , bad and ugly about doing this.    
Thanks in advance,    
Rick Harris

Why fix what isn't broke? I'd stay with the mechanical fan. Have you ever heard of one dieing like the electrics? Are you running the car on the strip? I don't think that street driving you will really see or feel the difference.

Good point ! It ain't broke and I don't run it on the strip.  
My dad bought this 36 Dodge for me back in 1965 for Christmas. The Man that he got it from did the machine work for the Flathead rail we were  racing. He told my Dad that if he was going to make a race car out of it he would not sell it. We didn't and it has been a Street Rod for 41 years.  I did build it into a Street Rod. I have rebuild it a few times and will never get through improving it.
Thanks, Rick Harris
#4
I was thinking about going to electric fan in place of my 6 bladed fan.  I have a 350 SBC with A/C in my 36 Dodge. I have a Walker Cobra-Z radiator. I have no cooling problems now even in traffic at 100 degrees. I thought I might pick up a few more HPs by going electric. I have a 105 amp CS-130 alternator , so I don't have a problem with powering the fan. I have a 10" pusher fan for the A/C condenser.  
What do you guys think ? Give me the good , bad and ugly about doing this.  
Thanks in advance,  
Rick Harris
#5
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: 'Lectric question?
August 21, 2006, 12:54:22 PM
The first place I would start is with a good ground.  
The second thing is your alternator is not keeping up with your demand, but if you have a 100amp alternator. It could be that you have everything going through your ignition switch. It can only handle about 60 amps. The fix it to put all your high amp draw items on relays (A/C , A/C compressor, A/C aux fan, headlights, power door locks, power windows and radio amps).
There is a lot of info on www.madelectrical.com  Go to the electrical tech section.
One more thing the headlight are pulling more amps than your circuit  braker can handle. That would cause the headlight to go off and on. Do you have the H-4 type headlights ?
I hope this helps.
Rick Harris
#6
Rodder's Roundtable / Pictures from Louisville
August 17, 2006, 08:56:02 PM
Thanks for taking pictures. I wish I could have been there. I know you have a plan until you see all the goings on and there goes the plan. Just have FUN !! Maybe after I retire form this Flying job I can go where I want to go.
Thanks again, Rick Harris
#7
Rodder's Roundtable / Pictures from Louisville
August 17, 2006, 08:22:17 AM
Thanks for the photos.

Were there no Mopars ?
Thanks, Rick Harris
#8
Rodder's Roundtable / T-mobile Cell Phone
February 26, 2005, 08:00:52 AM
I have had t-mobile for over a year, and I like it. I am a pilot and fly all over the country. I don't get good signal in some smaller town. The towers are mostly along the interstates. I loke the no long distance and no roaming charges. My plan is 300 anytime min. with free weekends for $29.99 a month. I have found no other plan that cheap.  
KEEP DRIVING YOUR HOT RODS !
Rick Harris.
#9
Rodder's Roundtable / 1965 Chevy Truck
December 26, 2004, 08:30:43 AM
First I hope you all had a Merry Christmas. My Father in law  gave my son his 1965 Chevy Truck. It is a C-10 short bed with a 250 six three speed with about 80,000 miles and no rust. Good paint and interior. My Son loves it and now he wants to start the rebuild. His biggest concern is the gas tank behind the front seat. Do any of you know of a gas tank that will fit this truck. I guess under the bed or any where out of the cab. He has big plans 350 EFI, 700r , A/C .
Thanks, Rick Harris.
#10
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Flex Fans
November 19, 2004, 11:27:41 PM
I have a stock Chevy 7 blade fan on my 36 Dodge with a 350 Chevy. Works great and it is quiet. The thing I like about it is it pulls a lot of air at idle whitch works great with A/C. I don't know how much HP it pulls ,but it flattens out just above idle. I got it off of a late 70s or 80s Chevy RWD station wagon.
I also put one on my 79 Corvette and it worked better than the stock clutch fan.
Rick Harris
#11
Rodder's Roundtable / Rear Shocks
October 15, 2004, 07:13:56 AM
Quote from: "Bob Paulin"
Quote from: "SKR8PN""I also got some good traction bars. I understand that Caravan springs don't like engine torque. "


Unless your running slicks,you prolly won't be needing those traction bars....... The front segment length on those caravan springs should be strong enough to handle your power on street tires,even if you don't stagger the shocks like Enjenjo suggested. If you DO need to strengthen the front segments,you can do it like they did the Super Stock springs. Just add 1/2 leafs. That way,you don't increase ride height,or change ride quality.

Given the fact that *most* of the OEM-style shocks that I have run across my shock dyno have approximately 25 to 50 percent MORE rebound  resistance than compression resistance at most common street-driven shaft velocities (1-4 i.p.s.), I would tend to think that mounting BOTH shocks to the rear of the axle would provide the best resistance to spring wrapup under acceleration.

Depending upon the anti-dive that is defined by the spring mounting, it should not be a factor in decelleration. Just keep the projected line between the front spring eye and the centerbolt near-level....even though the front portion of the spring might curve a bit.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I will ditch the traction bars. I have some 69 Camaro lower  staggered shocks plates I can use. I have one question about ride height. If the ride height is too high should I remove a leaf or lower the rear shackle(not use the bracket , but bore a hole in my frame and add a lenght of tubing for the top of the shackle).  I have the 5 leaf spring from a Caravan , and I hope that it is not too stiff.
Thanks again for alllll your help.
Rick Harris.
#12
Rodder's Roundtable / Rear Shocks
October 13, 2004, 07:22:24 PM
Quote from: "SKR8PN"Rick...one more thought on your springs................
Try to find a new style Caravan/Voyager/Town&Country. They have the really NICE mono-leafs under them,and most of the wrecking yards around here are FULL of them. Full=Cheap !!!


Thanks ,but I have already got some Caravan springs for $50.00.  I will check out the mono leafs.
I also got some good traction bars. I understand that Caravan springs don't like engine torque.
Thanks for all your help !!!
Rick Harris.
#13
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Rear Shocks
October 13, 2004, 10:19:48 AM
Quote from: "purplepickup"
Quote from: "rick 36dodge"... what car are the shocks for ?  So when I go the auto parts store I can ask for a year and make.
Thanks, Rick Harris.
Rick, once you get the springs and crossmember installed measure the length between mounting points and either take that to your parts guy or post it here.  A bunch of us have shock catalogs that show fully extended and fully compressed shock lengths with different mounting configurations, and can give you a part number or year and make application.

Usually your parts store will give you one of their outdated catalogs if you ask for it.  They're real handy when it comes time to pick what shock to use.
Thanks , Rick Harris
#14
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Rear Shocks
October 13, 2004, 08:47:56 AM
Quote from: "rumrumm"20-30 degrees is correct. As far as the type or brand of shock, I have always used Gabriel gas charged shocks when I go to replace the originals. I have had no problems and they do come with a lifetime warranty. A friend of mine said he likes his Edelbrock shocks, but I have no experience with theirs personally.
Thanks for the info, but what car are the shocks for ?  So when I go the auto parts store I can ask for a year and make.
Thanks, Rick Harris.
#15
Rodder's Roundtable / Rear Shocks
October 13, 2004, 08:25:51 AM
For my winter project I am going to remove the 68 year old rear leaf springs from my 36 Dodge.
I plan to use Dodge Caravan 5 leaf springs. I also am going to put on new shocks.  Any suggestion about shocks. I am going to have to make a crossmember to mount them.  Also what angle to mount them. I have read a lot of articles that suggest 20 to 30 degrees.
Thanks for all your great advice.
Rick Harris   :D