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I remember years ago we sent a search party to find him.  Surely some one can find him.

Whatever seat you decided on, make sure that the area where you actually end sitting is behind the steering wheel.  I used seats out of a '96 F-150, bucket seats with center seat that the back folds down to be a consol.  This measured, width wise with plenty of room, but when set in the cab of my '54 F-100, the steering wheel & instrument cluster was close to lining up with the inside edge of the bucket seat.  Seems the steering wheel in the old F-100 was spaced away from the door more so than on the late model trucks.  I didn't like sitting with the steering wheel offset to the right of the drivers seat.  This would not be a problem with a bench type seat.

Nothing worse than a rusty old sewer that needs repainted.  Wonder what they billed the city to prep the sewer for paint?

Thanks enjenjo.  Forgot about the problems associated with dipping.  I knew it was pricey but the blasters around here have gone up also.  I was thinking there was a dipping outfit in Columbus, OH.  Probably go to the blasters.

Eons ago on the old RRT, the subject of metal dipping to clean paint & rust was discussed.  Skip mentioned and recommended an outfit he had good experience with, and now that I'm looking I have lost the name.  Seems like ready strip or something.  I believe he said it was a franchise outfit.  Anyone have a clue what I'm rambling about or did I just dream this one up?

A buddy did the same with a '67 and was quick easy and a great improvement in driving.  Wasn't sure how far back they would swap.

Will the Explorer parts like bolt to a 9" housing (unlikely I'd say) or is a kit of sorts involved?  I was figuring on having to swap the entire rear end.  The truck is a daily driver, so I'm inclined to use part available at the local parts store, NAPA etc.  BTW the truck has M-2 IFS w/11" disc, one of those mid '80 Vette M/C with a Chevette power brake booster, proportioning valve, residual valves and stops ok.

Oddy enough I have a 9" truck rear (big bearing) under my '54 F-100 with drum brakes redrilled to 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern and it doesn't stop as well as I'd like (drums worn out, shoes shot etc.).  Wondering if there is a modestly priced (cheap) way to adapt disc/emergency brake to the rear?  I see alot of Exploders er Explorers with disc brakes on the back and thought about just swapping the entire rear.  I haven't spent much time looking at this new stuff (90's & up) so I'm not really aware of what is available.

That was the other route I was thinking about.  I sure like the way the '88 & up GMs ride (brakes suck) but I can't imagine those chassis being remotely close to a drop on.  Yea, I know anything can be made to fit, but I consider myself a hot rodder not a creator like those guys that come up with these works of art I see at the Nats.

Looking at a '65 Chevy Suburban w/4WD.  A friend recently swapped a disc brake front end, that is spindles, A-arms brakes and all from a old style '80s pick up to his '67 half ton.  I'm wondering if this is a bolt on with the '65 frame also?  Have my doubts as the '66 trucks & '67 sure don't look the same.  Anyone know for sure?  Like to get disc brakes at least on the Sub.  Thanks

I used a '92 T-bird 5.0 (same as '91) in my F-100.  For being the same engine as the Mustang 5.0 they have very little in common once past the long block.  Wiring is basically the same but all different.  I found out all that Ford Motorsport and other aftermarket wire kits are for the Mustang not the T-bird (also Lincoln Mk 7).  If I remember right, the intake (phenom?) is different (curved & lower for hood clearance on the bird which gives you tin valve covers rather than the Mustangs aluminum), egr is different, throttle body, is similar but in a different location, no BAP sensor on the bird, headers are different (one side has the O-2 in the header other in the pipe), coil, the air pump, alternator, P/S, and air conditioner compressor are in different locations.  The computer is the same as the Mustang automatic only some pins that are used on the Bird aren't used in the Mustang & visa versa.  I bought an official wiring diagram from the local Ford Dealer which in my opinion is required.  BTW something like 14 11x17 pages front & back with a book on how to read it.  I stripped a T-bird of anything remotely associated with making the engine go including more wiring than I needed, fuel pump, relays, vapor canister, etc.  Got it running a few years ago without to awful much drama and has been a very nice little reliable motor.   Use it as a daily driver so I wanted to be able to plug it into the Ford guy's tester.  Talked to Dr K's Fuel Injection out of Alabama who at the time seemed to know more about Fords EEC than anyone else, remember this was like ten years ago.

I remember seeing this car at the Peoria Americruise back in '92 or '93.  It was pouring the rain down and two guys come cruising by, top down, in this Ferrari powered Duce.  I always figured they had more money the common sense.

Ya gots to love those commentators.  The humor they brought was priceless.  Obviously, none was at all familiar with collector cars, primo paint, extreme attention detail, and pure workmanship like one sees at any NSRA, Good Guys or other big buck car show.  BTW I told my wife, after the expert commentators' build up of that F-88, I guessed it would bring about $300k.  Wouldn't you know the one time the idiots were right.

Auction a ghost on the-bay!  LOL That tops the guy that auctioned off a piece of bran flake that looked like ET (from the movie) and got $850.00.   Just when ya thinks people have no sense of humor, the guys show up.

Haven't posted much in the last year or so but we're heading to Indy on Thursday.  My old black '40 Ford is gone, but the Yellow '55 F-100 is easy to spot.  What about this place in Pittsboro?
Bob