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I think you might have missed what I am on about so I pinched this pic off another site. Look at the upper and inner pivot line  between the control arms. See how it intersects the pivot point on the tie rod. That is the position you are trying to achieve. If it is not right, you may be able to raise or lower the rack to achieve it.

Sounds like bump steer to me..Can you check the rack pivot point against the  intersection line of the upper and lower wish bone pivot points. It would be visibly noticable if it is way out.

There is more than one way to get a Ford in a Ford. I managed to get a Cleveland into my 37 without cutting the firewall. The way I did it was not with a shorter water pump, it was a modified radiator with a "V"ed top tank. That made it possible to push it further into the grill. Here are some pics to show.



It runs cool in all situations and proves that you can fit a Ford in a Ford. It just takes a bit of thought and determination.....and I think it looks better than a Chev anyway

Might have had something to with it Frank....as well as the rust and the supercharged Chevy twisting it in all directions   The only evidence I found was the left hand inner guard had a few wrinkles. I'm surprised he was capable of standing to pose for the photo. He said he was knocked out a while.....His driving record was not good either. He had pictures of other cars he had, and he totalled a few....So keeping the 37 in one piece was a bonus.

I have been gathering some history on my 37 roadster. Recently, I met the guy who owned it 40 years ago, so now I have created an exclusive page just for this. I know some guys here know a bit about it, as I was using the brains trust on the RRT to guide me along in the rebuild. So, for those that remember, and those that don't, go here for a bit of Aussie history.

http://www.pepsgarage.com/pieces_of_the_37s_history.htm

And no self respecting Aussie bloke would be seen dead drinking Fosters!

And which brand of dingo whizz would you recommend... :?:  

Yeah..Carps is right....no one here drinks Fosters....There are basically 3 brands that are popular here and it's state oriented.
Victorians drink VB { Victoria Bitter }
NSWelshman drink Tooheys New
Queenslanders drink XXXX ( they can't spell beer)

Not quite sure we are talking about the same thing. The vent tube comes up into the air horn. The tube the rest seem to be talking about is the fuel tube that goes between the two float chambers. There is an "O" ring at both ends...is that where it is leaking? Might just need the float bowl screws to be tightened a bit. If it has been sitting around a while, a kit might be a better option. That way you get it all. Just make sure the power valve is the same as you already have. If not, leave the old one in if the diaphram is OK.

If its running cool in all conditions, then running it through the radiator would be OK IMHO. ..The problem arises if you tow a lot. Most recommend to run an external cooler to aid the cooling in that situation. It all comes down to how well the radiator copes now. If its a huge unit, then go for it.

pep the brake linings are on backward on that removed set up......


look at the length of the linings on the shoes...

the parking brake lever is on the right along with the primary shoe....

when this happens ... there will be reduced forward brake function...

i know that you have disassembled it already...  

but for the other rodders that are going to read this post... i thought i would keep this correct...

(will someone. remove the sheep posts...)

Yeah Wayne...I never took much notice when I took it off. Strange thing is the last few drum set up I have done never had leading and trailing shoes. They were all the same. I guess you can't go wrong that way  

Herss a pic I took of mine before I took it apart. It is a 9" but is the same as the 8.8 I had laying around.

;

Some times a day at the dyno will save weeks of frustration....

We use a similar f/e over here in Oz...L300. The strut rod set up looks identical...I wouldn't be surprised if they even had the same bolt spacing on the control arm....Would be interesting to measure and compare. In any case, when I set mine up, I set the mounting brackets at right angles to the rod when to control arms were level (optimun position ) I also made sure the hole in the bracket is about 3/8" more in diameter to allow for travel and avoid binding. Urethane bushes on both sides of the bracket help as well. Here is a pic of the rod, the control arm is not exactly level as there is no  body weight on it then.


So far, after 1 1/2 years of driving, there is no signs of cracking.

Two issues, but not related...

First...the battery charger should not blow up the battery. It should be regulated.

Secondly, at low idle, the alternator will stop charging, but as long as it climbs up to around 14 volts above idle, then all is good. Also, if a diode is gone, you will see the charge light slightly glow all the time, as the AC is getting through the blown diode and lighting the lamp.

Thirdly, if temp creeps in traffic, then it is normally air flow...eg, fan not drawing enough air through the radiator. Don't waste your time flushing the radiator. That only has a bearing at speed.

Geez...my dizzy clears the firewall by miles..oh...wait...but its a Ford     ...Yeah you Chevy guys deserve some problems...we have sump clearance issues instead

Yeah Frank...strange thing about the accent...Not one "G'Day Mate" either. ..I'm a bit of a stutterer, but I think I bluffed my way through it OK.

The 37  has also been featured in the Australian Street Rodding magazine..3 page spread...yeah, I'm stoked  Another guy wants to do a 4 hour photo shoot on it for another magazine I can hardly remember the hours I spent in the garage now....Just looking at the web site refreshes my memory..I wouldn't do it again!!!

Did you also notice how nice the front sits now the springs have settled...glad I took your advice and not hacked into them..I love the stance it has now.