Messages

The bearings that come in that kit #8522 do fit, a little different in design, the best I can figure is that there are just a few pieces that are different, the seals on the input shaft from the steering  column. replacement bearing for pitman shaft "BH-2020 koyo usa"  Cleaning has begun. The one on the left is the new one.

I re-ordered the kit from AZ #8522 to check the bearing size, I know the kit is not for my truck but i think most of it will work, the input shaft is different seal. That can be ordered separate. I have been following this guy on utube.    

t=1144.019533

Having problems finding parts, have found seal kits but no bearing for the case. AZ has complete kits for the older sagiinaw boxs but not for the newer one. anyone run into this?

oil drain back

We did it, you have to drill a oil return also. Still have not installed engine though. Got fuel pump push rod with brass tips from summit.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/18130316@N07/29824326245/in/datetaken/

Got a little time today so before I forgot how to work my meter correctly. I checked the voltage on the gray wire on the MAP sensor. Got 5 V so the ECM has voltage going to it and does that much right. I got voltage to the instrument panel the other day from the ECM on the wire  to the system check light so I think most on this problem is still about the printed circuit's ground. Maybe some more tomarrow. GPster

Good.
Now that you know the ecm is alive and the dash light (SES)works, you can have the ecm check the system, jump terminal A and B(under dash connector), then turn on key, count the flashes.

Had a chance to slow down. Stopped and read the meter's directions. The meter (and I) were on the wrong scale. The battery showed 12.7 volts. I stopped after that little bit of encouragement. I wonder how much money Harbor Freight saved ny eliminating AC and DC from the printing on the two V settings on the meter. Didn't push my luck any further so I don't know if the gray wire has 5V or not. GPster

Do it again. turn key on. place meter on DC volts, measure Gray wire voltage, should be 5V. You could also do the Map sensor the same way on the Gray wire, look for the 12V  Let us know if u get something other than 5v. You could also check the fuel pump relay for voltage, with relay removed (key on) should be 12.7V  Your making progress.

Said that wrong , both Gray wires should have 5V . the rely should have 12.7,if you dont get any reading see if grounds are connected.

Had a chance to slow down. Stopped and read the meter's directions. The meter (and I) were on the wrong scale. The battery showed 12.7 volts. I stopped after that little bit of encouragement. I wonder how much money Harbor Freight saved ny eliminating AC and DC from the printing on the two V settings on the meter. Didn't push my luck any further so I don't know if the gray wire has 5V or not. GPster

Do it again. turn key on. place meter on DC volts, measure Gray wire voltage, should be 5V. You could also do the Map sensor the same way on the Gray wire, look for the 12V  Let us know if u get something other than 5v. You could also check the fuel pump relay for voltage, with relay removed (key on) should be 12.7V  Your making progress.

The only Tan/Black wire in this mess is one from the harness from the module in the distributor to the ECM . It's hard to think that this wire needs to be disconnected because it's part of the harness of 4 wires all going into the same plug that are the only wires (except the 2 wires to/from the remote ignition coil) that come from the distributor and go anywherer. This distributor looks like it was only used in '86 and'87 because most of the pictures that I've seen in assorted manuals have had the female receptical for the wires being part of the distributor's housing rather than being a receptical on the end of a short harness coming out of the distributor. The wires in the harness according to the wiring diagram are White EST signal, Purple/White EST Ref Pulse Hi,     Tan/Black EST Bypass, Red/Black Ref Pulse Lo. By the way this distributor does not have a vacuum advance diaphram on it. Maybe Rooster's Chilton manual has a better description of ignition timing proceedure than anything else I've seen. It's a shame that as many of these things the sold the couldn't make them more alike. GPster

Book say jump a wire from A too B On the connector under your dash, thats for the 2.5 only. But is your computer even working? You said there was no 5 volt reference on TPS. It has to be alive.

Joe do u have a vacuum advance dizzy in your 2.5?

well done

Well, I hope boredom with my posts doesn't keep anyone from reading this. Same subject, different problem. The distributor in this engine (2.5L "Iron Duke four cylinder) doesn't appear to have been disturbed since it's begining ('87). It is stuck in place, won't even turn. I removed the starter which is directly under it and before I try a pipe wrench in despiration I wonder if there are any old time tricks to get it loose. I have thought of a heat lamp or maybe something like a hair dryer trained on the site to soak it with heat for a while might help. But because a heat lamp can't really concentrate the heat in that direct a place and I'd rather not distroy the internals of the distributor (of course the whole reason for this is to see if the internals of the distributor are messed up)> Any suggestions (about ths problem). GPster

book says lift and tilt to remove after holddown removed

remove plugs in case of cyc's full of fuel

is there a chance the pump is running backwards? Their should be a check valve in the pump, should not drain back in tank.

pressure regulator stuck closed maybe?