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Well..its not a DD, just a few times a month type truck. I don't have tons of $$ to drop in it, and its not a chevy 350.. the teeth on the cam and crank gear aren't worn at all, I think they musta just used a cheap chain.  If this 327 gives up the ghost down the road, I'm dropping my 401 in it and calling it done. If I'm looking at a 20 dollar chain and $20 worth of gaskets vs $150 for a whole timing set and gaskets..that's where I'm at. If the teeth were worn more I'd do it.

lucky me..looks like someone changed out to the steel cam gear..just the chain is really sloppy with over the 1/2" deflection on both sides (almost an inch on the pass side alone). So looks like just gaskets and a new chain are needed.

I know this is relatively minor stuff but it sure doesnt seem many people are tearing into AMC 327s much anymore..just happy to keep the old beastie running.

Got it off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  That flywasher looks different IRL compared to the drawing, makes sense now. My beefed up pulled slid the dampner off no problem afterwards.  Now onto the timing..I emailed Falcon on ebay and they affirmed their 63 dollar timing set came with a steel cam gear and chain..which isnt a bad deal considering the only other place I can find cam gears is Kanter at 45 alone for the gear (chains are 20.60 there) so it evens out.

Thanks for your help Wayne, kept me motivated and from throwing tools

looking at the first picture.....     did you knock off the balancer retaining bolt washer..  right in the center.....   i cannot imagine that it is welded on... i think the undercoating it holding the washer in place....   if you are pulling against that ... no wonder it seems to be on tight...

the tool specified looks like the flanged tool i posted...

i still think that a pipe flange with some nipples may be strong enough to pull it...


what is the center to center spacing on the bolt holes?    

what size are the threads in the bolt holes?  

what size is the crank bolt???  use an open end wrench over the threads.. to get the sae size...

I cant answer all that right now because I am taking a sanity/lunch break.  I cant get that dang washer off to save my life. There's perhaps a few millimeters if that of a lip behind it, too small for any claw type puller. Soaked it in PB Blaster..I have a small nail puller I may try to pound in there to pop it off. I'm half tempted to take my grinder to it, and try and match a steel washer to it later on at this point. I'll post up after my next try.

here is even more.. on the amc/hudson 287/327

http://jubileejeeps.org/327/tsm/index.htm   this one has motor info...

http://jubileejeeps.org/327/index.htm this is the front page

thanks! Flint's actually a friend of mine up the road  I have a factory 72 reprint TSM that covers everything, sadly besides listing the jeep tool needed for pulling it, doesn't go into more detail.

sometimes they are on tight...  some times not......


here is a picture of a factory 360 amc v8 tool....

found it on page 383 of this 500+ page pdf file....

http://oljeep.com/JeepEngines.pdf

i am thinking that looks like a pipe flange...     with a nipple in it... and a bell reducer on top of that...     a piece of all thread through that... double nutted on one end... and a nut wedged into the pipe nipple and held down by the bell reducer...  or maybe even welded in place... so you can tighten the all thread and that pushed against the crank snout...

wow thanks for looking. Oljeeps pages are great! Unlike 360s, the 327 pulley is shared with the vib balancer.  I've had the pleasure of pulling those too on my 401..not fun either.

I'm hoping that I missed a washer and thats whats holding it on against the puller rod..otherwise I'm half tempted to toss in the 401

thank you for your searching!

thanks for the info Wayne!!

Well the story went..grabbed a harmonic balancer puller for 14 bux...TWANG snapped it. Made a 1/4 thick bar to slip behind the snapped part..and popped out a small chunk of metal from the threaded hole on the right  

Looking at my diagram I think I forgot to pull a flywasher that must be embedded in there..just the bolt and lock washer came off first, doesnt LOOK like theres another washer, but there should be one with a cork washer behind that (all on the front side of the pulley)..so tomorrow I'll poke again at it. Chinese crap they sell these days...

I do have a spare 327 if I end up mangling this vib/pulley, but hopefully it'll work out then I can get into the timing chain parts.

looks like Kanter is the only place that sells the CAM gear..45 bux.  :cry: I am assuming that mine would have the original aluminum/nylon one that needs replacing, but..need to crack her open to tell.

i was wondering is the small holes in the pulley face are threaded...


if so a harmonic balancer puller or a straight H bar puller would do....


if they are not threaded....    can you get behind it with some nuts? to go on the bolts that you are sticking through....

if all else fails...       and there is no room....

how about bending some long grade 8 bolts with the head cut off...  using the threaded end through the puller....   (think of a battery hold down hook... but thicker... )

i don't know where my 60's books are right now... but when i get back in a few hours... if you dont have an answer... i will dig them out...

they are in fact threaded. My TSM calls for a special tool of course.. They just seem really small. And the hollow crank snout frightens me, most pullers I've seen want to push against the tip of the crank snout...I have a hole.  Luckily its forged not cast in these engines I guess at worst I could stick  something steel between the puller tip and the crank that the crank hole would clear.

Long time no see! Glad to see the board is still going strong.

Ok here's the deal:

did a frame up shadetree resto on my 68 J3000 jeep truck..has the AMC 327 in it. Popped the fuel pump and (as expected) found A LOT of slack in the timing chain. Been comparing part numbers and whatnot, seems later AMC 360 era timing chains and crank timing gear sprockets interchange, (5/8th wide at least) but not the cam sprocket. I want to get a steel cam gear..looks like Kanter is the only source for that....

BUT..

first I need to get the dang balancer/pulley off. Its a one piece setup. Unlike other crank snouts, this one is hollow a few inches deep. Any ideas on getting this off safely? The rubber is still good on the vib. damp. so I dont want to mess it up. And I need to get this off before ordering parts.
Thanks for any help, part numbers, advice, etc. I need to use Paypal for parts so been looking at Ebay offerings..pretty much just Falcon. They offer a timing chain kit that doesnt specify whether its the steel cam gear or a nylong replacement. Guess I could ask them..
Ryan in SW CO.



I have a reconditioned 4 barrel intake ready to slap on there, and a double pumper 700 cfm. Would rather find the 380 cfm 4 barrel carb for it but using what I have.

You and tomslik need to get together. GPster

i dropped the gentleman a pm.  

sadly, the 401 is going in my 78 Jeep J10

Well, still haven't moved on the Rambler, but I did take steps to make it legal. See, I didn't get a title with it when I bought it, and that's the main reason I haven't started work on it yet. I talked to the local DMV inspector, and he said he'd clear me for a bonded title through the state if it passed a BASIC safety inspection..lights, signals, horn, and 4 tires with air..even without an engine! Just have to wire all those systems (besides the tires..lol) to a battery. So that's a big load off my back and I'm going to start my parts gathering.  Still undecided on drivetrain..if I part out my 68 Jeep J3000, I may use the nice 327 in that with a 4 barrel intake I have, and an AMC automatic, or I may go cheap and go chevy. I have major framerail rust on the front behind the drivers side tire that needs fixing first.  So that's that. Since the car is at my house now, I'm starting tear down this summer for a break of working on the Jeeps and start floorboard repair and fighting rust on the unibody frame (it has a partial unibody, and needs some stiffening/recovery).

401 Build:
I scored a NICE 75 AMC 401 that was stock, well cared for, and QUIET. Upon dropping the oil pan, found bearing material in the oil pickup. Now, some people would have shrugged that off, and put the pan back on. Glad I didn't..found I had multiple munched cam bearings. May have happend when we started the beast up (75 Jeep Wagoneer) and drove it home after it had been sitting for a few years. Anyways, this is the parts list, all of it has arrived besides some small items, which are enroute.

Offenhauser intake
motorcraft 4350 4 barrel carb
Maddog (clevite) 270d cam, lifters
New cam bearing
New Clevite P series crank bearings
Bulltear HRC oil gears and midplate
Boltlocker stainless bolt kit
electric waterpump (if I win it on ebay)
dual remote oil filter setup
cloyes double roller timing set

your typical shadetree build eh? I know it's not a 'dream' list, but I'm excited to hear this motor run again..once rebuilt!  Both Bulltear and Mad Dog were great to deal with, and I'd *really* reccommend Boltlocker.com for engine fastener kits.

..until I hit a cow doing about 50 mph...

 *!  You have (had?) some F-A-S-T cows in your 'hood!

Here, the cows barely moooove!  :oops:

haha, well I esitmate the cow was doing about 7 to 9 mph flat out.  He looked scared.

I drive a 1968 Jeep Kaiser J3000 Gladiator 4x4 with the kaiser 327, 4 speed manual.  My girl used to complain about it..until I hit a cow doing about 50 mph...I lived, the truck got a little banged up, and the cow died. No other vehicle we own would give results in that particular mix.

I'd say "How about I sell my 94 and buy an old truck, they're easier to work on"  

My first impression would be fix it. I can't really tell by the picture if that bar going accross is a swaybar or the idler arm for the steering. If it is the idler arm that would explain those two bigger bolts comimg through the frame, they would be holding the steering box. I wouldn't worry about heavy plate because that part of the frame's most important task would be holding the bumper. Now a few thoughts. Most oil feild welders might be closer in line with welding something heavy and while they may be able to weld 1/4" plate it's hard to weld something heavy to something lighter. You might want to check around at some body shops and look for someone that does frame repairs. Might also check at a tech school and see if they have a class that teaches this kind of stuff. Might be a learning experiance for them. They don't get to work on Ramblers everyday. GPster

Yep, thats the idler arm then. The box mounts on a plate on the direct otherside of the rotted part of the frame.  Good, good, glad to hear what I had in mind may work  I'll start looking around, good point, the oil field guys *are* used to welding heavier stuff, and this frame rail is pretty thin stock. I can even ask at the steel yard, they'd know the local wizards.  Thanks for the feedback sir!!