Messages

I just wish more guys would let everyone know when they see a deal or a possible good project that they are not interested in.  I hate to see the stuff just rust away or worse yet, get crushed and made into more Harbor Freight "tools".

I don't know how many Denver guys are on board here, but I was in our local Pull-N-Save this past weekend and I saw a totally complete 292 Ford & 3-on-the-tree in a '63 F100 (uni-body), several 9" Ford rear ends, a '40/'41 Buick coupe (nice rust-free body, but stripped), a '51/'52 Dodge coupe (another nice bare body).  Just thought I'd post for those interested.  The stuff is still out there, and cheap, too!

I very rarely post.  Not the most 'puter savy guy in the world, but I try.

I'm in my early 60's, have been building and playing around with hot rods
since I was about 14.   Live in beautiful Colorado.  Wish I had another 50 or so years to build all the stuff I'd like to.  Have a great wife who has put up with all my "car crap" for almost 40 years.  Couldn't ask for more.  

I have been offered a '55 poly motor (stock, don't know what size) in a Dodge pickup.   I remember hearing about swapping the stock heads for hemi heads.  Which heads, Chrysler, Dodge, or Desoto?  What else is involved?  Anyone know about magazine articles for this conversion?  Thanks for any info!!  Really enjoyed tech week!!

Sometimes I wonder if I am the only one around these parts with a true passion for these cars.  I mean I live, eat, breathe and in general do nothing useful most of the time except think about, work on, or drive early hot rods.  Nobody I work with, and I work in a large company, gets it.  "Car guys" here at work talk all the time about the 50MPG hybrid or huge diesel truck they just bought for large $$.  A hot rod is a turboed Jetta or a Honda w/a giant wing on top.  "What is that? Those cars look REALLY old!" they ask about the pictures I have on my wall of my '40 or '36 coupes, or even my ol' GTO.  I am sad for them.  I have absolutely loved the last 45 years of doing this stuff, and every early Ford I see is more exciting than the last one.

After having my battery in several different locations, most of which were kinda scary, I mounted a Optima on it's side in a tilt-down bracket under the floor of my '36 coupe, right where the narrow part of the "X" is in the frame.  It really fits nice and is easy to get to.  The battery cables are also short, right to the starter.  All in all, works very well, hidden from view, and the frame provides protection.  

Anybody have experience with a Jag IFS or IRS (or both) in an early mustang?  How 'bout the same things in a '57-'60 F-100?  I am working on both of these projects right now, and have the Jag parts on hand.  The Jag parts are from a '75 sedan, coil springs on the front, not torsion bars.  Either car looks like a good possibility to me.  What do you think?  I am especially interested in the front end installation on either.

I've been to every Pueblo Nats. The best people anywhere.  It's always very hot, very fun, lots of great cars, great food, good times.  Pueblo is about 40 miles from Colorado Springs / Pikes Peak.  20 miles to the SW are the beautiful Wet Mountains.  The nites at the fairgrounds are always cool, live music, dancing, cruising.  Look me up, red '40 coupe, ol'skool, steelies.  I'll be parked near the "milk barn".

Don't feel bad about the time.  Four years ago, I took the radiator out of my '36 coupe to replace it (I estimated it would be back on the road next day.)   One thing led to another.......now, the only thing on the whole car I haven't rebuilt or replaced is the long block.  New paint, interior, wiring, all mechanicals, etc. Total rebuild.  I probably have at least a year or two to go.  My wife still asks me "how long is that radiator going to take to fix? "  I love hot rods, on the road or not, best hobby in the world.

I'm a manufacturing engineer by profession and I use McMaster-Carr a lot.  I can order parts this morning (in Denver) and usually have them in two days.  A little pricey on some items, but if you need it, and don't want to spend forever looking for it, they are a good source.  Lots of neat car/shop related stuff in there. They make it really easy to do business with them too. Other companies could learn from them.

How about using a push button start switch?  Then you could either put a key switch somewhere to turn on the power or even use a toggle switch for power.  Ford used push button start switches for many years.  I have a '36 with the ignition switch and all other switches under the seat.  No problems.  Clean dash.  You get very used to operating the controls under the seat, even in the dark.

Hey there!!  Anybody out there make it to Deadwood last weekend?  It was our 1st time there and we had a great time!  Very organized, well done car show / event.  Friday nite on main street was a huge kick.  Good music, lots 'o suds, beautiful scenery.  Drove our '40 coupe (283 w/ stock '40 running gear) up from Denver, 1100 miles in 4 days.  Won't ever miss it again!    

I just finished a system on my '36 coupe.  Sanderson headers. Bought all the u-bends from J.C.Whitney.  (really!!)  Nice mandrel bent parts.  The v-bands can be had from shops that deal with semi-trailer trucks and parts.  Lots of sizes and types.  I had the whole thing coated at JetHot in Phoenix.  Beautiful job.

I my opinion, all modern gauges are grossly over priced for what they are.   I remember the old S / W's too, and other brands.  If you like that look, I would search for older S/W's or Sun gauges or whatever.  They are not hard to clean and repair if needed, and really look the part in the right car.

I have AON insurance on 3 cars.  I chose the value, 25K, 25K, 15K.  Unresricted milage, no nonsense. Total bill is about $775 / year.  Never had to file a claim yet, so I can't comment on how "friendly" they are.  I've heard good things about Grundy,  too.