Messages

Hello guys;
Anyone got any helpful hints?

Thanks, BFS57

Usually seals can be swapped by just pulling the yoke, as long as the bearing isn't trashing out and destroying it. But the common leak issue is the lack of ventilation. Rear brakes on the plow truck didn't work much, both covered with lube. After a clean up and seals, drained the rear and cleaned up the yoke seal that was also leaking. Not only was the vent hose gone but the fitting had to be drilled out, appeares to have been asphalt in it. Now vented, the yoke seal held without changing it.

Finally got the Park brake figured out and working, can FINALLY screw the body down.:
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Now for the temp gauges, one more radiator hose cobbed up and minimal wire for a test drive around the yard. The original strombergs are wanted by the guy I got the motor from, don't care much for them anyway. Got a clean pair of 94's model 59, the only jet size I have are 51 and 56.
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From reading I understand the mild 24 stud duals use about 45 jets, so the 221 motor should use smaller yet? I was thinking of starting with .040 ?  It's all new to me I just want it to run, not planning on racing

Freehand is the only way I have done it.  Can always compare to a fresh one if it go's funky, a commonmistake is a tendancy to make a point on it. I would try a 3/8 or bigger at first so you can easily see what is happening. It  mostly consists of a motion that grinds  back from a leading edge along with breaking away from the center so as not to hit the next leading edge.
Once you get it figured out  variables are possible, I once flattened a  bit to do a countersink. Took at least a dozen trys but it cut a flat bottom hole like an end mill. Too much angle  from the leading edge and it can be fed too fast, chip's the edge easier. Have a cup of oil to cool them in if whittling a lot off. Trial and error just like learning to sharpen a chain saw.
I have lately taken to using oil every time I drill and going slower so they can actually cut, amazing how they last when used right.  The old saying "Too soon old, too late smart"

I have 2 early flatheads to work with now, but the spec's on the 215 are impressive and I think it would make a fantastic lightweight rod. I am going to keep an eye out for more 215's or try to rebuild the one I have, probably have to make a trans adapter. Aluminum Body, model A frame, Subaru indipendent rear susp? maybe a 1000 lb car with 200 hp? Probably be a 50 MPG rod.
BTW, I sent those pages yesterday
http://www.directimagehost.com/is.php?i=8467&img=Dsc01458.jpg

I also aquired a olds 215 for a still imaginary speedster project. I photocopied all the relevant pages in Chiltons at our library, and can send them if the other plans don't work out. Good luck, ain't it great to pursue the obscure? Barry
rodrelic@alltel.net

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-90to125late.htm There are a few facts plus I can I can say I read that the aluminum front cover was put on Canadian engines and that the cast iron front covers came on American made motors. I also understand the aluminum cover  has 2 distributor shaft bearing surfaces and therefore more desireable. Don't know the difference or advantage to the RT heads, could indicate "factory relieving" but assume that would be the block. The pans are desireable that  had an inspection plate built in, usually in bigger trucks.  The F2 I aquired for parts had 8BA, so I assume the RT doesn't include pickups.

Can't keep a low profile with that thing! It's bound to turn up one way or another, and they'll get snagged, hopefully by their jewels.  :evil:

I especially love the Nigerian money scams where they are allegedly trying to find a "good, trustworthy, honest" person to allegedly help them smuggle out money that was allegedly skimmed off some sort of government program.

Amen, and the programs would be funded by the International Monitary Fund that is funded by you know who. Hugging the globe makes someone feel kinda warm and fuzzy inside but that ain't me.

Not fair...it says that you've reached your bandwidth for this month.

I guess the free trial is over. I greased em so maybe it will go back to work soon. The almighty dollar at work. :evil:

 Maybe it has been done to death but a few searches didn't indicate that so I thought some would  have  pic's to share.  This was my first 250 (855 ci cummins) before I put in a re-man. Disaster struck when the rod let go near the wrist pin, destroyed the motor, starter and bellhousing. Had a 14 yard load of gravel on going 55, and the cylinder in question was about 12" from my feet.
 

To get through to the starter it had to bust the cam, end is sticking out.
The block was almost cut through on the other side, the rod was stuck there.


That was 10 years ago, went to the woods to check it out recently and the proverbial sword is still in the stone. The hardship caused is long gone so now I can enjoy the photos.
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I never had any but knew of two. Didn't they have the worst brakes on the planet?

I don't know a 348 from a 409 but it's a great looking motor and a refreshing change to see those covers on a rod.  Oh and I understand they have the torque of a Mack. Didn't see the trans, my guess is powerglide? I'll spare you the " almost had a 409 once but... " story, very nice hot rod.

OK, the door is open so i'll stick my foot in. I have ford 39-48 hydraulic brake hoses #99A-2079 that is 15 1/2" long. Using a model A frame that is narrower need at least 18" or 20" leingth, I am sure it is a common dilemna. I suppose speedway has them but they wouldn't look right, maybe there is a shelf item that would work? The frame end mounting wouldn't be critical, have to make something for that anyway

I have planned a hot rod trailer for years now and am looking at varouus sheetmetal as resource for a body, sort of a mullins-ish thing to go with wires and model A lights. Inspiration can still be found 6 miles from home on a winter day, saw the coolest trailer i've seen yet.
Skiing last Saturday I saw a uhaul behind a car with a refreshing look, I believe it was labeled sport trailer. A glass pod that had a split top opened both ways, pair of long billet hinges that looked like '30's trunklid. Kind of mid  60's stingray apearance from the rear,  without all the stickers it would have been dynamite.
The car was from Ohio as are most of the weekend clientele. These may have been around for a long time, everything come's to dogpatch last. Capacity would be another issue, not much chance of using it to fetch a new washing machine. But it's about what I had envisioned for size, wonder who manufactures them?

Some of us still have them, and although you can as a last resort replace the standard 5 on 5 1/2" drums with 90 dollar re-pops the wide fives aren't reproduced yet that I know of. If there is meat on the drums someone somewhere want's them.
The puller that is made for them, all banjo rears, grabs the indent near the end and uses a push nut to protect the axle. Ask on Fordbarn, lot of Texas Ford people there and maybe one nearby with a puller that would help get it apart. If  the car is from the south maybe proper de-adjustment will be all you need to get it apart right.
I have hydraulic backplates on my wide 5's and it look's like they will work good. I have heard some drums have webs inside that interfeare and something about wheel bearings needing spacers but I haven't run into any problems. The biggest problem is limitation on wheel width, 4" is standard, I understand 60 hp used 3.5" and I had to widen a pair to get bigger rear rubber.