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Just sold my '34 coupe to a little short guy. I'm 6' and I had installed glides to allow some adjustment but unfortunately the seat was all the way forward for me and he had to drive 10 hours with a pillow stuck behind his back. I did make the seat adjusters so they could be moved forward by undoing some flathead allen cap screws and physically moving the adjuster to a more forward position but that didn't do him much good at 11:00pm when he was ready to drive home.

You guys probably know this already, but don't ever apply heat to anything you've used Kroil on - it becomes a pretty toxic stuff when heated.

I know we've discussed Ford rear ends  a lot over the years but this question is a little different. Can a pig with a really low gear ratio be installed in a '57 or '58 housing that doesn't have the bump out on the back? I have a couple of housings but I'd like to use the '58 in my latest project. I do want to be able to install a 4.56 gear on occasion for a 1/4 mile blast.

Two years ago, a buddy of mine and myself started searching for a '32 Roadster that was once owned by a friend of ours who had developed Cancer and had wondered whatever had become of his old Hot Rod. We searched and found a number of different owners and learned that the car had been sold to a guy in the USA and he had, in turn, sold it to someone else. We had that guy's name but couldn't find him and that's where the search ended. Then, months later another old friend who lives 2 hours from me sent me an email with a picture of this car saying it had been the car that had inspired him to get into Hot Rods back in the late 50s and that a guy he knew had owned the car in 1963 and was looking for it and could I help since he knew the car had been in the Windsor Ontario area for quite some time. We got together with this former owner and really began to seach. We found it and John was able to buy it back after 47 years. This new website tells the story. We have now found 22 owners of this great old Hot Rod since it was built in 1955! The latest owner (#22) was also the 4th owner back in 1963 and he has produced this website which reveals the history of the car, a story I wrote for a couple of publications and a short video that was shot back in 1959 as an army recruitment film. Pretty cool site - enjoy

www.tbirddeuce.com

Anyone have a center hinge for a 1926 or '27 Model T closed car? I've got a broken one on my new coupe project.

I was there too with a pro street Deuce pickup. Lucky for me I parked high and dry. I remember looking outside from the loading dock door and the water was right up to the door. Someone had to warn another guy not to step out there - he didn't realize it was a dock and would have dropped about 4 feet into some pretty murky looking water. We pushed a bunch of Hot Rods out of the water. They kept announcing not to try to start your engine if you were in the water. I wonder just how many motors got hyrauliced that day. Lots of wet interiors too. I was always surprised there wasn't more publicity about the carnage.

Thanx Frank! That'll work.

Anyone know of a good on line (free) wiring daigram for a 66 El Camino?

Well Wayne, Once again You nailed it. My friend says he found a bad connection at the starter solenoid. Many thanx! Boy, I just looked at my "User age and realized I've been around here for a lot of years!

My friend has an original '67 Mustang he bought brand new and it's pristine BUT, the other day there was smoke coming from the ammeter. The Ford book says this is an ammeter, not a voltmeter with an ammeter label like some cars, but it has pretty small wire -- like maybe #14 at the most. He's got a new ammeter but when he connects it it goes to full discharge with any kind of load at all. Even one tiny light bulb sends the meter full scale. I'm thinking there must be a shunt around the meter that handles most of the load normally and that it may be open. Any ideas?

Cool. Thanx again Frank. We've got the rotors on order - long weekend here too.

That sounds great Frank! Is the filing necessary due to the Dodge 4 1/2" pattern and the Chevy 4 3/4"?  I wonder if there's a Chrysler or Ford rotor that would be similar and have the 4 1/2" pattern? We'll grab some Gm rotors tomorrow and get to working on this. This could be a terrific swap for him. Thank you. I know I don't get to visit here too much anymore but this is always the best place to come with problems like this.

I guess it was just because the car has been sitting so long. We have fired the engine a few times but it hasn't been put in gear for a couple of years or more. I jacked it up on stands, started it up and let it warm up a while. When I dropped it in gear with the wheels off the ground, the car stalled 5 times before it would continue to run in gear. Forward and reverse both. After I let the wheels spin free for 20 minutes and got everything warmed up the fluid level went back down to normal level. The outer cable had a tiny burr on the plastic right at the end (inside) and the inner cable would catch on it and stick hard. A lttle trim with a razor knife and everything works great. Thanx.

Sent you a pm Frank. It's a '38 Dodge coupe with an axle. I'm thinking of the AMC spindle trick with an adapter plate drilled to lower the car a couple inches at the same time.

I have a buddy's 33 Ford here and we want to connect the Kickdown cable to the carb, but, the cable doesn't pull out of the trans more than 1/4". I have the 350 I took out of one of my cars and it moves at least an inch which is what we need to allow the carb linkage to pull the cable out at full or almost full throttle. Any idea what could cause this? Also wondering how much trans fluid I'll lose when I remove the cable from the trans. Thanx