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Quite obviously junk.

I'm in the process of painting my 26 RPU using BASF RM Uno HD Single stage acrylic urethane in Washington blue and Wimbledon white.

Very nice paint.

Maybe in all this you can find the time to change the color.
That shade of blue did much to contribute to the ugly factor.  

Speaking of dogs there was a news story just recently where the court in Oregon ordered the dog owners to either get rid of the dogs or have them de-barked.

http://globalnews.ca/news/3710342/court-order-debarking-dogs/

http://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-northwest-news/index.ssf/2017/08/owners_must_surgically_debark.html

Glad to hear that you are OK. I remember well, and still have the magazine with the article on putting that Heidts universal MII front end in.

I always liked that car and I hope you will be able to resurrect it.

Looking forward to seeing pictures.

While you are there be sure to ask around to see if Tim McMaster is there with his old Ford truck powered by a Y Block.
The truck is green and white in color and is a strong runner.

Tim is from Visalia and is a talented engine builder who owns a really neat vintage machine shop and also a great guy.

A car show that has things like a PT Cruiser is not a car show, it's a WalMart parking lot  

Sometimes the tires sold at cheap prices are blems,  small defects in manufacture but still safe.

Way too much discussion on this.
Hilti has what you need.

Very simple flush with the floor threaded insert.

You drill the hole to fit the insert to the proper depth so that the top of the insert when slipped into the hole is even with the floor surface.

You then slip a straight drift pin punch smaller than the threads into the insert and give it a good smack with a hammer to seat the bottom plug and expand the bottom of the legs of the anchor and lock it in place.

After that whenever you want to have the anchor holes un-used they will just be threaded holes flush with the floor.

If you want to keep the holes clean and keep them from filling up with debris , you can cut some all thread of the appropriate size and then cut a groove into the top with your zip cutting blade and grinder for a large flat screwdriver.

That way you can have removable plugs for the holes.

All pretty simple , yes ?

https://www.hilti.ca/anchor-systems/flush-anchors/r2457

It was a rather unfortunate incident to be sure but to say that the legs out the windshield might be fake ?
Hell are you blind ? That was as real as it comes.
The guy was lucky.
The track is not great as well as the driving was less than stellar but still.

I have heard that for a flathead or a Y block you want no crossover in your exhaust system in order to have that distinctive sweet exhaust tone.

Clarification. Won't start as in starter will not engage at all when hot.

Wondering why a starter on a Ford 460 would start the engine fine when cool and then while the engine is running the starter gets rel hot.

If you shut the engine off then it won't start till it cools off.

Its in a class C van chassis style motorhome.

The starter has been replaced as has the solenoid.

Other possible causes ?

I like nostalgia as much as the next guy, but what these guys are paying for obsolete speed parts is crazy! Then there is the cost for a built flathead (or any earlier engine). You can spend a fortune to go really slow. For me, no thanks!

I have a freshly built Y Block for my 26 RPU and if there is one thing Y Blocks are, it isn't slow.

Fially a shred of sanity in the money grubbing mentality of event organisers.

I am also tired of all the brand new off the showroom floor cars that turn up at events, fitted with one or two aftermarket bolt ons.

In days past they would have had to park the damned things out in the parking lot as is proper and walk in as spectators.