Messages

ok this is only good for dismounting but our local; tire guy uses gas and varsol 50 50 mix for getting the tires off . According to him it is the most slippery thing he has found.and it goes with out saving no smoke break when doing it he he.Hope this helps

Try a 80"s gm full size van the have little round can bodies you just cut a hole with a hole saw slide in the gauge and a couple of tacks with a mig and your done. They also have nut terminals for the wires .Well it may be a little harder than that lol .

Try a 80"s gm full size van the have little round can bodies you just cut a hole with a hole saw slide in the gauge and a couple of tacks with a mig and your done. They also have nut terminals for the wires .Well it may be a little harder than that lol .

I put a 73 full size on a 56 chev pick up it was too wide i fixed it by cutting the lower control arm and moving it in 1 inch and repositioning the upper ball joint . This worked ok but it was only slightly lowered and i think the 56 is a little wider in the fenders than the early 50"s ones. I am currently doing a 54 and i"m using the caprice front clip.it is correct width but if you really want to slam it you may want to use the malibu cutlass set up  you can use s 10 lowering spindles on them so i am told. oh ya on th 56 i just cut a little off the threaded end of each tie rod inner and outer and then threaded them in the sleeve further.it also got 2 inch lowering spinles and it only dropped 1 inch lower than stock.good luck hope this helps

I got a 56 chevy pickup and i used master,booster and porportioning valve from a 87 chevy caprice. It still has i beam axle and i bought a kit to change it over to discs i think it was 69 camero rotors i used . the kit came with a couple of spacers to adapt the rotors to the spindles and a big flat piece of steel that bolted where the backing plate bolted on to. It looked really easy to make but it only cost $ 200 and i had alot of other stuff to do on it so i used the one i bought.The master is aluminium with plastic tank.The tank i had to change with one from 88 full size chevy half ton .I mounted it on the firewall and also used the pedal out of the caprice. the bracket for the pedal is held in with 4 bolts that hold booster on and 1 other one to the dash it was a really easy install and they work great with 0 real wheel lock up.I also used much the same on my 46 ford pick up but it has been clipped with a caprice front end.

Good question and you will probably get a lot of different answers and opinions so i'll give mine hehe . any time you are adjusting a tappered roller bearing you should spin the bearing [in this case the rotor]while tightening it because there is a ramp effect because the bearing is tappered .Snug it down good spin a couple of turns,back it off and tighten it down to as close to 0 lash as possible [no end play].Remember over greasing causes bearings to run hotter not so important on cars with larger diameter wheels but if you look at the size of say a tensioner bearing that baby gets buzzed pretty good lol. As bearings heat up more load will be placed on the bearing and in the case of a rotor you also have heat being generated from the brakes . So that is my feelings on this hope this helps .

From what you described i would say it was pre 1980 if there is not a key on the column Also if it has the gear indicator it most probabl;y is from a g van [full size van].here is some tips that may help you. If you are using a column shift and where you exit the firewall is tight to the engine you can use an astro van column .The little arm the rod connects to comes off the other side of the colunn .there is also a u joint that  connects to the column that you can also use on the astro vans.Most gm columns have wiper switch on them except cutlass . there switch is on the dash.If you use a gm column with integral wiper switch with pulse wipers and can somehow modify the astro wiper motor to your vehicle you will gain pulse wipers and the wiring is as simple as matching the colours on the motor harness with the ones on the switch and powering the white wire. this motor also runs at a slower speed than most so it is benifficial with the shorter blades on most rods.

if you are going to get a rebuild kit [if you can find one] be carefull i was told by a rebuilder that old kits would only work well for a short time because the newer gasoline would eat away at anything rubber in the kit eg. accelerator pump.Good luck .

hey all hope i'm posting this right 1 st time here .I see alot of you are experienced and i hope you don't get your shorts in a bunch when i say this .I too recomend  lubriplate  especially if you are working on an engine with an external oil pump [3.8 buick] you will need to pack the pump to create enough suction to draw the oil out of the pan.Also additives like slick 50 should never be used for rings as it will not allow the rings to break in properly.I perfer to use engine oil or trans fluid .Anyway thats my two cents .
]