Messages

Thank you for your offer of help with shipping. I notice your posts on ozrodders from time to time, I post as spark. Old32 (Roy) suggested I ask on RRT as he was given help with his set up.

I have the carb that came with the 283 but can't see any part number, just 2 JET ROCHSTER and GM cast on the top. I will probably rebuild it and use it as the center carb.  I will do some more research on the Rochester 2G 2bbl.
Again thanks for you help.

Looking for info or recommendations for 3x2 sbc.

I have been researching a triple carb setup to go on a 283 sbc with power glide.

I like the look of the Stromberg 97. and have been looking at ebay (US) to get a sense of availability and cost. I also see the new Stromberg s but a little pricey for me (x3).

New Edelbrock 3bolt intakes are sold new about 300US$

The same applies for Holley 94, also have new ones (Edelbrock?)  

Rochester 3G – outside carbs need to be modified? Something to do with base??  
New Edelbrock 4 bolts are around.

My problem is I live in Australia and these carbs are hard to find. Often people refuse to ship out side of the USA or ask for an unreasonable amount to ship. One wanted $61 US (for shipping on one carb) another quoted $17 and others flatly refused.  

I would like to do this bit buy bit, I can get a Edelbrock 4 bolt intake for $550 already in Australia.  

Does any body on the board supply rebuilt Rochester's modified for 3x2 set up?

Would any body be willing to be a go between – help me source matching carbs and ship them to me?

Can any one recommend someone that can supply rebuilt carbs and willing to ship?

Sorry for the long winded post, any suggestions or info is welcome.

Well this thread has had a lot of response, speaking for myself; I have a look here about once a month and generally find friendly banter mixed in with some useful info. I don't post much and I find that if I visit more regularly not much has changed.

I also visit the H.A.M.B but it has a lot of posts and anything I post like questions, sink off the page in a short time. Also some of the methods used in the US are not accepted by our authorities. Split bones is one method admired by ozies and seen on a lot of cars in Australian magazines but our rules state that you can only split them by 300mm (1 foot).        

I am a member of Ozrodders and it is interesting how that board has evolved – separating the info on building a hotrod from the friendly (and some times not so friendly) banter is sometimes a challenge. A long-term "view only" section for Tech is something I would love to see on all the hotrod boards I visit.          

Some topics of interest to me are- Engine and Drive train, Suspension, Body work/ fabrication, Tech section and a General section for banter (loosely related to hotrods).
And pictures, lots of pictures.  

Yellow + red = orange
Yellow  + blue = green

I have been doing some welding with the MIG on 18 gauge I have the wire feed set at 4-5 and 20 gas flow. I pulse weld sheet metal- that is to say- weld- stop- weld, I weld a bit longer than a tack (about 1/16 th )  then off the trigger then back on a second later. With a bit of practise you get so the next tack is done before the last on loses its colour.

Long runs on sheet =  distortion and too much heat so it blows through.  I use .08mm wire.

I have also used the MIG on 30-31 Ford panels with a low heat setting 2-3 wire feed, I usually have some off cuts to have a practise on and get the settings right. I will set up were I'm going to be working, have the practise run and straight on to the job.  

Sometimes you will have to tack and move to another part of a panel – tack one end and move to the other end and do a tack, next do one in the middle of the panel and then in between the end and the middle tack. keep doing tacks in between until all the tacks join together.
  The trick is to take your time and don't put too much heat into the panel, every 5 or 6 tacks stop and wait- if you can run you bare hand over the work area, its safe to start  doing more tacks.
 This takes longer to do but you get a better result with less distortion.        

Hope this helps.

have a look here-

http://www.borgeson.com/products.htm
or-
http://www.borgeson.com/systemdesign.htm

OK I'll put my hand up, I have been a member of this forum for a while, I do drop in and see what's going on, however I post (or rather did post) mostly on the other board.

I am a first time rod builder, my project is a 30-31 Ford closed cab pickup. I started with 4 panels – 2 doors, a cowl and a back panel. The pickup is on repro A rails, it has a  RodTech independent front end, 8inch rear with triangulated 4 bar and coilovers, also 302 Windsor / C4.

I hope I can add to this forum and others from the other site find their way here as they are a good bunch.      
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You guys need to stand together and get that Tudman guy outta ASRF. I see only one post on your site that takes a stand against the moves by this *. Wouldn't your anger be better focused directly to him and the organization that he represents?

Doesn't matter what happens to the ASRF guy, the damage is done the forum is gone, a stand up guy (Greg) has had to close the forum so his wife and family don't suffer any more distress, Greg has put his family first (as it should be).

If the ASRF has any more like Mr Tudman, best not to have any thing to do with them.
I will send a letter expressing my disappointment at the result of  Mr Tudman's actions and will suggest they get rid of him in the best interests of hotrodding in Australia .

Im sorry but that jumped up PRICK from ASRF has done-in a forum that has helped many first time builders. As well as providing support, info and a meeting place for like-minded people, Greg has done a lot to support hotrodding in general and doesn't deserve the crap he has copped.  Looks like ASRF stands for – A Self Righteous Fart.

Australian Street Roding Federation is supposed to help hot roders but instead has taken away a forum that was a great help to a lot of people, a forum that if allowed to grow would have been the best of its kind not only in Australia but any where in the world.

I hope all his chooks tern into EMU's and kick his dunny door down.

As for the ASRF this bloke has done you a big disservice, I would suggest you get rid of him before he can do you (and us) any more harm.

and-

Gage....      Inch....      mm
32.....      0.0134--                     0.3404
30.....      0.0157--      0.3988
28.....      0.0187--      0.4750
26.....      0.0217--      0.5512
24.....      0.0267--      0.7010
22.....      0.0336--      0.8534
20.....      0.0396--      1.0058
18.....      0.0516--      1.1306
16.....      0.0635--      1.6129
14.....                   0.0785--      1.9939
12.....      0.1084--      2.7534
10.....      0.1382--      3.5103

IMPERIAL GAUGE TO METRIC MILLIMETRES

28 GAUGE = 0.36 mm to 0.42 mm
 Supplied as 0.40mm BMT

26 GAUGE = 0.46 mm to 0.50 mm
 Supplied as 0.50mm BMT
 
24 GAUGE = 0.56 mm to 0.63 mm
 Supplied as 0.55mm BMT

22 GAUGE = 0.72 mm to 0.80 mm
 Supplied as 0.75mm BMT

20 GAUGE = 0.89 mm to 1.00 mm
 Supplied as 0.95mm BMT
 
18 GAUGE = 1.21 mm to 1.26 mm
 Supplied as 1.15mm BMT

16 GAUGE = 1.53 mm to 1.60 mm
 Supplied as 1.55mm BMT

14 GAUGE = 1.90 mm to 2.11 mm
 Supplied as 1.95mm BMT

12 GAUGE = 2.52 mm to 2.77 mm
 Supplied as 2.45mm BMT
 
10 GAUGE = 3.18 mm to 3.43 mm
 Supplied as 2.95mm BMT

Found this-  http://www.smorgonsteel.com.au/sheetmetalsupplies/resources/product_guide/index.cfm

And –
http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/metrics/#sheetm

may be of help.

To make it even harder I didn't even know there was an 18 ga.. I thought there was only 12, 16, 20, and 410. GPster

well the girl on the phone said- "we have .75mm z/s in stock, umm, I think its 22gauge" (she didn't sound too sure about it).

maybe some one knows Imperial size = gauge  and I could convert Imp to metric? just to get an idea.


 
:?

Can anyone tell me the thickness of sheet metal, Gauge..= Millimetre..

16 gauge = ??mm      
18 gauge = ??mm      
20 gauge = ??mm

?? gauge = 1.15mm
?? gauge = .75mm

:? I have to order some zinc seal sheet and get asked – what size (how thick)? And when I say – "do you have 18 gauge in stock?" I get- we have .75mm in stock, we will have to order other sizes for you.

Any link to a chart of thickness / gauge?


.

Thanks for the link, they got lots of stuff I can use.