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i had a tire (new along with the wheel) with a slow leak, took it to a different tire shop and they used some sort of sealer on the bead and hasn't been a problem since.
maybe try that?

who's do you like/dislike?
i've used American autowire, painless, haywire and jegs.
painless and Autowire are my favorites, haywire ain't terrible , and you couldn't give me another Jegs kit. but there's other stuff out there and i'd like to hear your opinions

Mopar SW's were called that

thanks guys, i knew SOMEBODY had an Hollander
i'll pass it on (maybe there'll be a road trip in it for me

my x boss is looking for a drivers door for a 40 dodge pickup, anybody know if a 46 will work?

i still look but now i just work on old cars that other people own

thanks, i always wondered about those

slow?

i've changed it to a gm alt (speedway bracket), tried isolating the gauges from the housing and going positive ground (might've killed a gauge or 2...)
could it be that the bigger trucks were already negative ground?

enjenjo, how did you reverse the polarity.?

it should be, it's all new for the truck (lmc)

i'm using one of these,https://www.lmctruck.com/1948-56-fords/wiring-components/fa-1948-56-voltage-reducers( the electronic one)
i'm wondering if i should be using 3 of them though

i'm using one of these,https://www.lmctruck.com/1948-56-fords/wiring-components/fa-1948-56-voltage-reducers
i'm wondering if i should be using 3 of them though

yeah, did that. i suspect it has to do more with the polarity

(51 F-3 ford) painless wiring, stock gauges.
it occurred to me last night that this could be an issue. has anybody successfully made the gauges work?
new temp sender reads hot, oil reads 0, fuel gauge reads F and it's not.
new tank and sender, new temp sender, oil is original....ideas?