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Messages - midnight sun

#1
Rodder's Roundtable / Fuel Smell
May 21, 2015, 12:27:38 AM
Quote from: "enjenjo"Is there a return fuel line on your car?

No return line.  The manual fuel pump is still functional although it is overidden by  an electric one.  Had to install the electric one due to vapor lock.

Just have the vent line and a drain line in the filler neck in case of overflow when filling.
#2
Rodder's Roundtable / Fuel Smell
May 18, 2015, 11:55:46 AM
Quote from: "416Ford"Is the tank building up pressure when its warm? Just wondering if the spiders built a nest in the vent hose over the winter.

Not sure but thats a good point.  Think I will at least replace the vent hose with a new one.
#3
Rodder's Roundtable / Fuel Smell
May 18, 2015, 12:29:28 AM
Quote from: "enjenjo"Yes I did. My thought was the carburetor vent. No sign of fuel leaks, correct? Are you using a carb spacer?

Yeah no fuel leaks and yes I do have a 1" phenolic carb spacer.   The air cleaner base does have a hose type bib on the underside but I have never hooked a hose up to it to vent it anywhere.  It just vents into the engine compartment.  Could that be part of the problem??
#4
Rodder's Roundtable / Fuel Smell
May 16, 2015, 04:48:38 PM
Quote from: "midnight sun"
Quote from: "enjenjo"What are you using for air cleaners?

K&N

I assume you meant carb air cleaner/filter???
#5
Rodder's Roundtable / Fuel Smell
May 16, 2015, 01:15:43 PM
Quote from: "enjenjo"What are you using for air cleaners?

K&N
#6
Rodder's Roundtable / Fuel Smell
May 15, 2015, 07:48:44 PM
Am getting a fuel smell while cruising down the road only when the windows are open.  Have checked all lines, carb, filter,  tank fittings etc. No leaks anywhere. Do get some gas smell when it has been sitting in the garage too.  Put a spacer under the Edelbrock 600 and that helped some but still get it a little.  I have my vent line coming up out of the tank and it goes higher than the filler.  I have a loop in it and then it exits down by the left rear fender.

Any ideas?  

Thanks
#7
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Need opinions!
September 11, 2014, 07:47:17 PM
Quote from: "kb426"I'm looking at options for an under fender liner on the 51 ford. Has anyone used bed liner or something like dynamat? Is the best answer to build a steel inner fender that mimics the tire diameter? What are your thoughts?

This may sound crude /Rube Goldberg but I bought the cheapest acrylic caulk at Home Depot and trowled it on with a bondo spreader. smoothed it out with a wet sponge and then painted it black.  Nobody sees it anyway and it works great.
#8
Rodder's Roundtable / Adjustable vacuum advance
July 14, 2014, 07:01:17 PM
Quote from: "Mikej"What is your total timing with the vacuum unhooked? When you are at WOW there shouldn't be vacuum advance.  You may need to limit your mechanical adv. or you initial adv.


Total timing being initial (idle) plus mechanical is 34 degrees.
#9
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Cooling Question
July 12, 2014, 08:16:06 PM
Quote from: "midnight sun"
Quote from: "57larry"rode to Goodguys columbus in buddy's 56 Chevy pickup. His temp gauge read 220 for 150 miles. It didn't overheat but he is concerned that it's getting too hot. Truck has a 350 with a 700R4. New 4 core US Radiator, new electric spal fan, 195 thermstat. temp gauge is new Classic Instruments, trans cooler is in front of radiator. What does he need to do to lower his temp. Thanks, Larry

Ensure that vacuum advance is from manifold vacuum and not ported vacuum.

You didnt mention whether or not the Spal fan had a shroud.  Some do and some dont.  Shroud helps with airflow into engine compartment.

After posting this I guess there are two schools of thought on where to plug in the vacuum line...ported or manifold.  I was taught always go to the manifold side of the carb.  Ive been wrong before though!!!
#10
Rodder's Roundtable / Adjustable vacuum advance
July 12, 2014, 08:13:03 PM
Quote from: "WZ JUNK"I set timing for total advance which is a combination of vacuum and mechanical.  So what you are setting is the vacuum part of the total advance.  I suppose if you had the vehicle on a dyno, you could play with different settings on the vacuum and mechanical and see which worked best.  I would try different variations of the vacuum but set the timing using total advance.  33 degrees total is a good reference for me.

That is all I know.

John

Thanks John.

Yeah Im at 34 total right now. Guess Ill just have to mess around with the adjustment.  Wondering if I should just hook up a vacuum gauge and see where im at in inches?  Just a thought.
#11
Rodder's Roundtable / Adjustable vacuum advance
July 12, 2014, 02:29:01 PM
Anyone have a preferred way to adjust an adjustable vacuum advance?  Ive read most of the different manufactures instructions which quite frankly run the gamut from starting at full clockwise and backing off if detonating, or start at full counterclockwise and go up one or two turns with the allen wrench until detonation and then back off a turn,  or start right in the middle and go up or down as needed.  I understand that you want as much vacuum as possible without the engine detonating but Ive tried all methods and cant seem to find much difference.  At full clockwise it runs great and I dont hear any detonation but that seems a bit much to be at the top end of the vacuum.  I performed these different ways of adjustment at acceleration up to about 3500rpm and not WOT.  This is on a GM HEI distributor.

Thanks in Advance.
#12
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: Cooling Question
July 12, 2014, 02:19:58 PM
Quote from: "57larry"rode to Goodguys columbus in buddy's 56 Chevy pickup. His temp gauge read 220 for 150 miles. It didn't overheat but he is concerned that it's getting too hot. Truck has a 350 with a 700R4. New 4 core US Radiator, new electric spal fan, 195 thermstat. temp gauge is new Classic Instruments, trans cooler is in front of radiator. What does he need to do to lower his temp. Thanks, Larry

Ensure that vacuum advance is from manifold vacuum and not ported vacuum.

You didnt mention whether or not the Spal fan had a shroud.  Some do and some dont.  Shroud helps with airflow into engine compartment.
#13
Rodder's Roundtable / Hot Hot Hot
July 06, 2014, 12:00:08 AM
Quote from: "unklian"Are the hood sides louvered ?

Full fendered with the hood sides and top on. The sides are louvered.
#14
Rodder's Roundtable / Hot Hot Hot
July 05, 2014, 06:47:43 PM
Anybody got any ideas on how to cut down the heat in the engine compartment of a Model A coupe?

Full fendered with the hood sides and top on. The sides are louvered.  Water temperature is not an issue.  Usually 190-205.  The problem is heat being unable to escape the engine compartment.  Driving for 2-3 hours in 85-90 degree temperature and you cannot touch anything in the engine compartment.  

I guess one help would be to louver the hood also which I dont really want to do but I just cant see any place where I can construct any type of exit for the hot air to escape.

On the way to Pueblo the car died after about a 4 hour drive in 90 degree weather.  The problem turned out to be that the control module in the HEI went TU.  Got towed to Pueblo and when it cooled off installed a different module and away we went.  I am of the belief that the heat destroyed it.

Thanks in advance.
#15
Rodder's Roundtable / Re: He makes me kind of proud
July 05, 2014, 06:27:27 PM
Quote from: "enjenjo"Thanks for what you did Dad  http://www.toledocitypaper.com/June-Issue-1-2014/Living-history/

Now there my friends is a honest to God hero!!!

Great story.  Thanks to your Dad.