Messages

Shakespeare said, "he who hesitates is lost". For me and my oil pressure sending unit nothing could be more true. Had I bought one and installed it before the cab was bolted down it could have been done with ease. Now it may take a contortionist.
Is there another place to screw it in besides under the distributor?
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I don't mind showing just the box with the wires not exposed.  I am trying to keep from having anything down too low to keep water, dirt and debris away.
I have closed all the other holes in the firewall so it looks pretty clean.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2532245060099708909mEqQss

Why not just use the cover off an old style voltage reg.....

MM64  

That's a good idea.  I was making some measurements while ago and it looks like the size needs to be around 3.5" X 2.5"

This is what I have in mind.  If it were larger by 2 it would be perfect.
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2188507160099708909xIJXeD

I am wiring my 1951 Chevy 3/4 ton and need to know if anyone sells some kind of device that covers the wires coming out of the 1" hole in the firewall. I am keeping my firewall clean but all these wires are looking like a bunch of spaghetti. I will be using the split loom but I would like something up there that covers the wire coming out of the hole so that it doesn't look so obvious and dresses up the firewall.

enjenjo
According to the directions the first thing to do is run a ground from the door jam button to the light.  I'm sure I will need to run a positive wire there as well with the button being the ground.  

crdnblu
Yes I have the orig dome light and there is no door jam button.  I assume the way to set it up would be to drill the door pillar, drop the wire down through the window post and into the door pillar and wire the button and snap it in.

True about the space between the leading edge of the door and the pillar.  I don't know this as the doors are not here.  I will check that out before I buy the actuator.

I am in the process of wiring (American Auto Wire) my 51 Chevy truck and the next bag tells me to wire the dome light to the door post button. I don't have a door post button. However after thinking about it I might like to have that option on a dark night. Has anyone here added one to their project? If so how did it work out?

I have decided to add a door jam button on both doors. I dropped by NAPA today and looked through their catalog of door jam buttons. I think the one I need will be one that I can just push into a hole I drill in the door post. I'm thinking it should be very flat at the post so the door will shut as it is suppose to.
Does anyone have a suggestion on drilling the hole for the button? Any warnings etc.?
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By the way guys, along these same lines, if you ever want to make life a lot easier, build yourself one of these. I think they are called "gantry's" and they are used to lift heavy things (like car bodies, etc) easily.

Just about a year ago I was lifting the corner of my '39 body and tore a bicep, which required surgery to reattach it. My Son didn't want me to do that again, so he built this gantry on wheels, and we put two 120 volt winches on top of it. Now all we do is roll it over a car body (or whatever) and push a couple of buttons, and the gantry does all the hard work.

Usually one of us is working alone at night and has nobody to help lift heavy stuff, so this thing has been a Godsend.  Just thought I'd pass it along. Dan found ours in a dumpster, (winches were missing) and he modified it to fit the dimensions we needed.  We use this thing all the time, an each winch will lift 440 lbs.

Don

Looks great Don.  Can you send a diagram of that thing.  It might save some time if we could get measurements, placements of winches, etc.

[is]

What is thit?  "I'll show your mine if you show me yours"

Doug

LOL......... I was just curious. i did het on the northern tool web site and the only one i saw for 129.00 was a 1 ton. I cant remember if it folded or not.
Dave :!:  

Sorry, I guess I failed 4th grade math.  It is a 1 ton and it does fold up.  They are pretty heavy duty for the price.
jd

Well at least your honest .. Im just stupid :!:
Ya that was the one I saw on the web site. I like mine and its a 2 ton . Ive been throwing the new 32 roadster frame all over and ive still got the axles and wheels on it. I can set it on its side or roll it over  :!:  I was gonna make iu a deal to greb the new body in the center and pick it up to move it but me and the kid just lifted it up and set it on a creeper.
Dave :!:      :!:

My big error at the rod mall was buying too small a jack.

[is]

What is thit?  "I'll show your mine if you show me yours"

Doug

LOL......... I was just curious. i did het on the northern tool web site and the only one i saw for 129.00 was a 1 ton. I cant remember if it folded or not.
Dave :!:  

Sorry, I guess I failed 4th grade math.  It is a 1 ton and it does fold up.  They are pretty heavy duty for the price.
jd

Bought mine last week at Northern Tool.  Paid $125.00.  It is a max 2 ton.

great picture...
You should enter it in a photo contest.  I think I spotted my drill on the first step.

My 1951 Chevy 3/4 ton is almost stripped to the frame. All that is left is the front end and rear end. As soon as that is done I will haul it (the frame and sheetmetal) to the blaster. I will be installing a IFS and 350 sb. I would like to find a 9 inch Ford rear end but may have to settle for something else.
Problem: Because they are so heavy duty I would like to keep the rear springs. Is this the best way to go? Will I be able to use them with a different rear end?

Will I be able to keep my original radiator and just put a trans cooler in front of it..  I understand the 700r4 runs pretty hot.
jd

NEED TO KNOW!  What will it take to install a sbc in a 51 3/4 ton pickup using the stock radiator, a new MII IFS, a 350 turbo trany, a 9" ford rear end, and new steering from Flaming River.  Will it fit?  How far forward from the firewall, 1 inch, 2 inches.  A greenhorn here and desperately needing advice.  :?: