Messages

Guys,
Hi, it has been awhile since I have visited as my computer was down and I was busy trying to get my car finished by March.  
I have a Ford 9" from somewhere around 65, I think the guy said it was out of a Fairlane.  Anyway, I just went to put oil in the differential and there  are no filler bongs.  There is the breather on the left tube but no plug anywhere on the center section or pumpkin.  How do I fill it?  Through the breather??  And how much is enough?  I can not find a specification on how much fluid went in.
Thanks for the help.  Hope everyone is doing fine.
MikeC

C9,
I am presenty using braided teflon hoses (factory-made) (2- Earls and 2- Goodman) from bulkhead fitting from remote fil to M/C and from the M/C to the bulkhead to the brakes (front and back).  No hard lines under the dash to the 90* M/C.
As Charlie said, the Kugel 90* has a mechanical switch but I find it interesting that the silicon wants to creap.
Under the dash the braided lines only go to bulkhead or M/C.  On all my lines everywhere I have used the Earl fitting (button) that pulls over the flair.
All the braided female is being connected to Earl's aluminum flair male.  No NPT in the system.
Thanks for the advice.
MikeC

Thanks Charlie,
I think I will get some more stainless tubing and try to re-plumb with hard lines.  It is so difficult to tell where the stuff is seeping from but it is doing it under gravity alone.  I think the Earls braided pre-made is split somewhere.  I never thought about the spongy brake though...hard lines should fix that.
Mike

I put a Kugel 90* brake/master cylinder under the dash of my 39 chevy.  I am just about finished and added brake fluid to the remote fills on the firewall.  I am using -3an hoses from behind the dash to the MC and the same flexible hoses from the MC to the brake lines low on the firewall.  I am using DOT 5 silicon fluid.
My problem is I have been screwing with these lines for almost a month now because they are LEAKING somwhere.  My car interior is done and this is really stressing me out!  I keep trying different things but I can't seem to stop the leaks.  I have used teflon tape anywhere that does not have the flair but have not used it with the flared fittings.  It is really tight under the dash and I can not really tell where this is coming from.  Any advice besides moving the MC to under the car where it should have been in the first place.
Thanks
Mike

Thanks for the help, I will post something after the "bleed" and let you know how it goes.
Mike

Could the Dot 5 be run through like a coffee filter,  and then re-used?

I am just about finished with my 39 Chevy.  I installed a 90* Brake pedal/Master cyliner under the dash. (If you ever think you want to do this contact me first!)
Because of other issues I was not able to bleed the master cylinder before installation and now I am ready but...
Bleeding the master cylinder (dual reservoir, remote fill) will I think cause an unbelivable mess inside under the dash also with very little room to move.
Is there any way to ultimately remove all the air through regular bleeding without bleeding the master cylinder?  Any possible tricks?  I have heard that if you heat Dot 5 before putting into the system it will remove a lot of air bubbles that are normal with 5.??  Since the complete system, lines, calipers, master, etc are all new; is there any reason to not re-use the fluid that is bled?
Lots of questions, I appreciate the help.
Thanks
Mike

Tony,
There was an article that Scooter wrote on www.project33.com about the stuff he used.  http://www.project33.com/article.cfm?ID=752  It was from Cascade audio engineering.  http://www.cascadeaudio.com/   VB-2 is the product for like the doors and tight places for just dampening and VB-TS has the aluminum mylar over the foam for thermal insulation.  Both have adhesive back.
I looked on the web and found both products for like 1/2 oof the prices listed on their web site.  Much cheaper than Dynomat and very similar.
MikeC

Trying to get my 39 Chevy 2-door sedan headliner in.  I have the bows but I do not have the clips to attach to the ends of the bow wires.  Does anyone know where I can get there or aftermarket usable and how many do I need?
Thanks
MikeC

I would also vote on PRC.  The workmanship is excellent.

Thanks guys.  I got the servo plugged in after some new yoga positions.  I have not gotten to the A.C unit yet.  l guess it will be tonight.
Thanks again
Mike

I could use a few pointers on the wiring of my A/C unit.  It is a Vintage Air Gen II.  I have used an American Autowire dual fan relay as well and that is where I am getting confused.
The Amer. Autowire directions said to run the brown wire from the relays to the compressor or A/C power switch.
The Vintage Air directions say run the Blue from the A/C thermostat to the A/C clutch.
In addition my power currently is going from the panel marked A/C -heat to the 30A circuit breaker to the power in on V. Air unit.  The V. Air say to run the purple wire to Key on ignition source (5A fuse).
Which way should this whole thing be wired?

Also, I have mounted the heater control servo in a really tight place under the cowl and now I have to plug in the wiring from the V Air controller.  I can hardly get my hand in there.  Can someone tell me where the connection is located on the servo itself?  Top, bottom, front, back?  In relation to the outlet side of the servo would be a good reference point.
Thanks for your help.
Mike

I am trying to "slip" the 5/8" heater hose over the male copper tube on my Vintage Air A/C unit under my dash.  Also over the heater servo controll.  Is there some kind of trick to get it over the end in order to clamp with hose clamp or am I just getting old and weak?  I  tried some WD-40 but it really didn't seem to help.  
Any suggestions?  Tricks??
Thanks
MikeC

Since this is my first rod, I am not sure what the best method for covering the garnish mouldings on my 39 Chevy.  Should I paint them the same color as the outside of the car or cover them in the leather that I am using for the interior?  Or any other ideas??
Thanks
MikeC

We have a relatively new Oreck vacuum cleaner. My wife was cleaning the bathroom yesterday and it died. This is the second time that we thought the switch went out. She impatiently went out today, dropped off the Oreck to be fixed and also purchased another vacuum. She just started cleaning again and the new one died after about 15 minutes. Is this just "dumb luck"? Or could it be something weird with the house wiring or receptical? Please tell me how to check this with my multi meter.
Thanks
MikeC