Messages

Ford removable axles should have no play in them.Check the lock behind the axle,make sure it is right up to the bearing.I not you will need to replace this bearing and lock it is a press fir and might have walked loose.
The noise you have is on the pull side of the ring gear.Once the wear pattern is established on the gears,its almost impossible to reverse.You said you were replace gear anywhay,should make sure you use a pion set
up tool.this will determine what side shim you will install between the pion support and the pumkin.this determines the depth of the pinion into the ring gear.This is an important step.After that,make your backlash is correct.New pinion bearings,races,crush sleeve and seal preloaded to 21 to 33 inch pounds of rolling torque.this is the right load of the pinion bearings,any thing you stand a chance pf premature bearing or race wear.that's why a lot of guys get ion trouble when the replace pion seals caude they overtighted a crusch sleeve that has already been crushed once.

Is a switch mounted on your master cylinder.It's purpose is to act as a secondary backup to your cruise control.It shuts down the cruise when brake pressure is applied.they seep brake fluid and considerinng its a closed circuit when brakes are NOT applied its always has current going through it,till brake pressure is applied.Should have been wired the other way around.Its in line with brake switch and electronic servo.When brkae fluid seeps on it the wires have 12 volts going through it,heats up the brake fluid on top of it and catches the engine cpmarnet on fire.they have had this problem now for about 5 years

Before you get married to it,check your basic,how bout a cracked dist/cap inside,hairline crack will give you a good around.Also,turn the motor by hand,see how much back and forth play you have in the distributor when you do this,Worn timing chain,?.befor you start shiming valve srings,howabout a worn cam lobe.When you check your plug wires with an
ohmeter,analog prefered as it will give you differant reading when wiggled around.It will also give you a differna treading when its cold and hot. the specs given for the measurement were right HOw bout voltage to both side of the coil.Most no starts are basic repairs so don't sart digging into you pocket and wasting your bread.
Paisano

If what you call a resister mounted on the coil looks loke a points condensor,its actually a radio choke.it supposed the take away ignition interferance noise for your radio.
The  'Pink' resister wire from you ignition side is probably gounded somewhere along the harness.tha's why its blowing out on you.This wireis not fused from the igntion swich.the 12 volt supply from the starter solenoid has fuse links on them which are molded into the wire.They can be replaced.Just make sure you use the same gauge fuse link as a replacement.
Paisano

Before you waste you money on a pump,pull the distributor cap off.If the stator is is original,it will be black in color,put your finger or small screwdriver on it.If you can push it through,its no good.Another cheap concern could be the map sensor mounted on the fireawall near the heater box.It will have a vacum line on it to measure atmospheric pressure.With it being 22 plus years old,could be anything from a mouse having a new home to a fuel or eec relay,fuel one is green and the eec is brown.

start here....

http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php


i will see if i can find some direct information...

have you thought about pulling the diff cover?

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.html

i would think .. it could be slop in the spider gears... did you run different sized tires on the rear for a while...    

checked the lube?? lately?


http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/setting_backlash.htm


here is an article with pictures of what you are going to see

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring2008/7_5_lockright.htm

you will also need a 5/16 or 8MM, 6 point wrench to loosen and remove the cross pin bolt...   you also might want to pick up a replacement.. if you end up doing work inside..   they do break off.. usually at the last thread... so you have to use a carbide scribe to back the broken piece out after you center the cross pin to reduce pressure on the pin end of the bolt...

   
Brand:   Dorman - HELP! - Carded #81048  
Type:   Differential Shaft Lock Bolt
Make:   Ford 2007-65 / GM 1994-90
OE #:   D8BZ 4241-B, 393132, 14056196


if you need a replacement...

here is the interchange list and ID list

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Axles.html


i hope this helps.....

Sometimes when the companion flange and the pinion splines get dry,they cause a clank,type noise,If you put some Teflon grease in between splies on both the rear and trans side it will probably help you.Lowering the idle if you can will help also.Doubt that you have a spider gear noise or anything in the carrier.They really don't load up that much till you get moving or turning.If you reset the ring gear backlash again.that's going to cause any pattern to be establised,that your going to get probably a new set of problems,like a whine while going down the road.
Good Luck
Paisano

Some drive shafts have an inner sleeve,and if it may have a crack,under centrifical force,its will give a cracking type noise.It will some times give a vibration due to being "out of round" from the inside.
Also,on your side gears,if you have an up and down play when they are sitting in the carrier,that's becuse the gear material is harder than the carrier metal and causes it to slap around when you "coast".This is known as a "chuckle".
This will vibrate sometimes,and you will need to replace the carrier.Whing is a ring and pinion problem.
Good Luck,Paisano

Sure its coming out of pinion seal and not the splines on the yoke? or possibly the O ring on the pinion support ?You keep tighting up on the pinion nut,your going to burn up the pinion bearings.And then your back to square one.Next time you take the yoke out.clean it real good.and make sure its dry.Put some teflon grease on the splines or white lead,that;s the stuff we used to mark the teeth out with when we ran a pattern to check how the pinion depth
Paisano

Yep,sounds like the regulator like everyone else thinks.Just make sure that ther'e no corrison anywhere on cable mounts.IT will screw things up.

If you have a restriction in these units,its usally going to show up as a frost ring around the component that's restricted.The rpm's have to be up a bit for to happen normally.If it is a real bad restriction,its not going to cool at all.Also,if you expansion valve is stuck open,the sight glass will have a lot of bubbbles,and it will shoe up that way regardless of the amount of freon that put into it,cause it floods the evapaorator.
Does this unit have a thermostatic control switch ?It looks wired in line to the copressor.Its shuts it off at a certain temp.You said that to went to 42
degrress.under the cover of the switch,there's usually 2 little screws,one times the compressor shut of time and the other regulates temp.In the old days we used to adjust the to run colder.Just make sure that you don't get real close to the freeze point,cause this will ice up the evaprator .  
Paisano

Does your car have clucth on the radiator fan?If so,rev the engine and look at the fan,if it slows down cosiderably,that's probably your problem.
Its not cooling the condensor fast enough to condense what's coming out of the compressor,high pressure hot gas.The other cosideration is if you have a receiver dryer unit instead of an accumalator,the dyer is partially restricted,with drying material.A lot of these dryers when they are wore out,will send the drying pellets which are inside a sack out to rest rest of the system and restrict the expansion valve,and possibly other components.
I used to see this happen all the time.What happens there is that the condensed hot liquid coming out of the condensor is filling the dryer faster than it can come out,causing a restriction.
Paisano

Anyone going to Carlisle this weekend ?

Yeah,I've seen radios that had a draw on them.Also seen power amps draw.Electronics are a are cool,but some times they ca be a pain in the BUTT!

Ken's right check the alternator.Sometime's the alternator diodes will cause a feed back and draw about 2. to about 2.7 amps.It can have be cause either by heat or a cold alternator,leave it disconnected next time and see what happens.You also put an ampmeter,preferably digital to see how may amps its drawing.That way you can narrow it down quicker because you can figure how many amps a particular system is required to run.The voltage regulator weather internal or external can cause an intermediate draw also.Good luck