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The big freight charges are nothing but additional profit some of these sellers add on.  It has no reality to cost of shipping.

I don't think any of them go into the water jackets.  I have heads off different 302's and never used any sealer and never had a problem.

But make the test noted above - and let me know if there are any.

Kroil (Google it) is supposed to be a good rust preventer.

Try a mild detergent like dish washing soap.

I have a '48 F3 that I want to put on a newer model diesel frame complete with all the newer running gear.  My question is If Iwanted to keeep all the numbers straight on the title and registration how will it need to be registered, can I keep it on the F3 or does it have to be registered the "new" frame.  This in Calif
Thanks
For your help
Chris

If it was me, I would get some stamps and stamp in the 48 vin  number on the later frame (where the original 48 number would have been).  But I hear CA is real picky on titles and vins, so this may not work

A local tire dealer told me that the quality of the new ones are not the same as the older ones.  Junk? - I doubt it.  I bought a set of four, all chrome, they seem to be well made, had no cosmetic issues and are working out fine on my car.  I do not use the car as a daily driver though.

50/50 mix of ATFand acetone.

How about renting a power washer?

Get some Gibbs penetrant.  It also coats metal, preventing rust.  Not supposed to interfere with paint besides.

Go to a mechanical switch.  If adjusted right, they go on immediately when you touch the brake pedal.

That's what I used - no problems in 8 years.

Make sure you are not overfilling the radiator - fluid level should be no more than an inch over the core.  When you shut an engine off, it will heat up a little at first, probably requiring a little more expansion room.

In my opinion, Ron Francis and American Autowire are probably the best.  I have a Ron Francis I installed in my 48 conv about 25 years ago and NEVER had a problem with it.  Still running the 48 today.  I have Nu-Relics in the same car - installed about 10 years ago, and same situation - no problems, easy installation although the wires were hard to route because there were all four windows.  The units for the rear quarter windows were amazing.

Nu-Relics has a door jamb installation package that makes running the wires easier where there is little room in the jamb area - requires welding though.

I have used one other wire harness, Its-A-Snap and I am very pleased with this.

Ford used 6 volt gauges from 1957 to the 80's??? in cars and trucks.  They used one voltage regulator for all gauges which were wired in series.  These are available at NAPA and other parts stores..  Not for the amp gauge-  this is wired directly.

Yes - Ford did have a power top as standard equipment as far as I know.  I have a 48 conv.  Stock, the top motor was located in the engine compartment.  

For my car, I used the stock top cylinders and a electric/hydraulic motor out of a 68 midsize Ford and located it under the rear seat.  I used the hydraulic lines out of the 68.  With adapters, the lines fit the 48 cylinders.  I have been using this for about 25 years with no problems.

Use power steering fluid or auto trans fluid .  Do not use brake fluid - if there is a rupture in the line brake fluid will ruin any paint it comes into contact with.

I am sure that any motor out of most any later model convertible will work.  Get the hoses and switch when you pull the motor.

A good friend wants to put a power top on his '46 Ford convert. It's always been a manual top. First, did Ford make a power top in '46? And 2nd, where would he go to find a kit that would work? I've searched the net for a power top kit and haven't had any luck. HELP!!! :?:  :(U)