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I bought the El Cheapo $20 battery from the local parts store.  They sell them with no wattanty once they have been on the shelf 6 months. I guess you get what you pay for....

The solenoud will engage, and it barely cranks, but then it won't disengage...

oh yeah, Its 12v and the starter and battery are both less than 6 months old.

My 51 has a dead battery and none of my other cars will jump it.  (98 Volvo S70 & 00 Volvo V70)  My Question is that for some reason when trying to jump it, my starter solenoid sticks.  Is that normal in this situation?

I wanted a cool shift knob for my 51, but I couldnt find one I really liked, So I am making my own.  I have about 3 hours into it so far, but I have a LONG way to go:

I have an area that I need to patch on the floor of my 51. I have a couple questions.

1. Some say weld, some say rivet, some say glue the panel in. Whats best?
2. one of the seams is going to be directly over the frame rail. Does that effect anything on how I do this?

bags

..with a torque tube and a panhard bar?

watch this:
http://www.hardcars.com/blown240/51%20chevy/new%20trick.MPG

$400 isnt bad if thats the only safe option.  But I hope to be able to safely modify the arm instead.  I bet that can be done for arround $50.  and unfortunatly for me, money is an issue.

I appreciate your words of concern.  Really I do.

The pictures are a bit decieving.  there is about 3/4 clearance all arround the bag, but yes it is hard to see.

The welds look worse than they are.  I definatly have deep penetration, I made sure of that, but I am not skilled to finish then off nicely.  At least I hope I am right.

and yes, I was asking so that I can get lower than I am.

Thanks again for lookin' out for my safety!

Oh Yeah, this is what I have so far:

I got this from another forum.  Can anyone shed light as to what he is talking about?

The cheap way to lower the 49-54 chevys besides heating or cutting the springs is altering your control arms and or steering knuckles. I've done this, and achieved a 4 to 6 inch drop with maintaining almost full suspension travel, and no adverse affects, as of yet... You need a REALLY good welding machine, as well as a skilled welder to get some deep penetration. Take your time in "V'ing" out all of the weld spots, and slowly control the metal cooling.
DON'T mess with the spindle itself, thats scary *! Mess with the Knuckle or the control arms, and make sure all of your steering geometry stays the same way it was. I could elaborate on specific methods that worked for me, but I'd rather not. Hot rodders in the 50's were using this technique back then, research the old mags and you'll see it.

I just went to Benner Metals in Fullerton.  

I bought 76.69 lbs worth of remnants for $45.25!  Thats only $0.59 per pound!!!!

I got these peices:
3/16 x12x42 for $15
3/16 x14x32 for $14
3/8 x7x35 for $16.25

Step Notch Here I Come!!!!!!

I tried adjusting the plate out, that isnt the problem.  On my car the pin is in the door and the catch is in the B pillar.  It seems there is alot of play in the striker pin.  I need to figure out how to make it more stable.  And I need to find a way to reverse the wear on the catch.

I have been trying to get the passanger side door to close right on my 51 Chevy. I can get the latch to grab the first posisition, so the door doesnt swing open. But I cant get it to go all the car and really latch shut.

From inside the car I cas see what the latch is doing. Basically instead if the latching pin on the door moving up into the fully latched posisition, it stops after the first posisition and just slops back and forth. It has too much in and out play I guess.

has anyone experienced this? I really dont want to go with bearclaw latches. The drivers door seems ok, it needs a little lovin to get it to latch, but it will do it.