Messages

Yes you have the good HO engine and a good computor.  You should have lots of fun with that and learning how it works  and tweaking it a bit at a time is fun and rewarding too. Get on some of the Mustang sites and just learn......just small adjustments until you decide what you want.  It is a well matched system as is so go slow.  Maybe a bit more timing to start.
I kept mine stock.

If it really is an HO motor then it will NOT be a speed density FI.  The speed density came in Crown Vics and Lincolns and similar.  The HO (I think) was only in the Mustang and had the mass air flow system and the good EEEIV  computor. It is a great system and like the earlier post, accepts mods.  Big difference is the firing order,  HO had a different firing order from the non HO motor.  Also the HO had bigger injectors.
Give us the numbers off of the computor,  should be A9L  or so and also give us the firing order and color of the injectors.
I have some extra parts kicking around if it comes to needs.

No one familiar with the Buick V6 supercharger

My 79 yr old mother has a Rivi with this engine......yea I know she doesn't need a blower.  About a 98 vintage,  anyway she lives up in Ontario Canada and I'm in AZ and she has told me that the front bearing on the blower is howling and service said $1000 just for the rebuilt blower.  She can't afford that and asked if I could do something about it on my next visit.  Car has 110K miles so no surprise on the bearing.  A junkyard one may also be noisy.  Is it a big job to change the bearing ?  Or does that mean that the rotors are also worn out.  But then she is not concerned with 0 to 60 times or smoking em off the light.  Advice ??

It is still cast iron....misapplication ie wrong material for that application just as it saves $$$ in manufacturing.  Henry's axles and all other OEM's are forgings  which will bend but not "snap".
When these cast aftermarket axles came out I was shocked,,,,,,,,surprised that there aren't more fractures of these.
Someone does make a forged I beam for hot rods....don't recall who.

Wow....I'm shocked that I got the pics up first time. Now I'll try a pic of the connectors on the truck.

Some of you guys who were in the service might recognize these,  often called Cannon plugs.  Those in the picture are old style and also known as AN connectors for army navy.  They have a threaded coupling.  The other pieces in the pics are backshells / cable clamps.  I'm in the mil spec connector business and have often thought that these would work out well on the old timey hot rods......or on a modern one too.   I have a few,  maybe 5 or 10  mated pairs of these in the pic.  10 and 24 contact.  Kinda about what you'd use on a hot rod and they will take up to 16 gauge wire.  The wires solder to the back end of the contact on this type of connector.  The contacts are silver plated which is old timey and even though they are tarnished with age they will still solder fine with some flux.  Silver oxide is conductive.   The more modern types are gold plated which is what I have on my truck. Those pics later.
Anyway there is a set of each on the way to enjenjo for his evaluation and I'm sure he'll post his comments.  He should have them by May 28th or so.  We can take it from there.
Would like some input from others on where you'd use these on the hot rod and what wires and wire gauge.  The size 16 contacts in these will take 15 amps under mil spec conditions which is -55C  to +125C.  Maybe I can come up with a few stds that will work in our hot rod world and we could get the price down reasonable (affordable).

Yes some good ideas.  Surprised at only $35  for 50 feet of what appears to be good hose.  Would it rot underground ?  Here we often have 120 degree days in the summer so not much safety factor on the 140 degree rated plastic pipe.  Any other ideas ?  Galvanized pipe would be $ and a job to lay,   but would it be good forever ??  Or still corrode underground ?

Yes we have all beat this to death I know.....but  I have a paint / dirty shop with roof only, no walls that is 110 feet from my main garage. Do not want two air compressors so an air line is the only way.  Different wrinkle here is that I will bury it underground.  Can't use black pipe or copper because of corrosion and copper is way too many $$$.  Leaves galvanized pipe or.........the taboo  PVC .  I think the safety issue is OK as it will be 18 inches underground and where it comes up I'll switch to steel.  It will also cool and so help dry the air with proper drain lines.  I'll have a ball valve where it leaves the garage and only have it on when needed,  painting or whatever out in the dirty shop.  Notice I'm in AZ  so no concern with freezing and little rain also.
Would you use PVC

I have a stock 66 Chevelle.  Buckets are 23 inches wide, 4 inches from the door panels and about 7 1/2 inches in between where the console is.  You should try to convince him not to use late model buckets, IMO look tacky,  the old ones are still out there and recovering with a kit is not hard.

Yes I  too am skeptic of that lady in front of congress.  She said that it went on for 6 minutes???   I find it hard to believe that the shifter is "shift by wire".  Do we have any Lexus or Toyota guys here  Carps, where are you .........or is it suicide for you to say word one???  Maybe one of your mates can tells us what "rumours"  he has heard?
If the 2006 Lexus (she didn't say which model) shifter has a mech link then her story is bogus.
Also I recall hearing that the throttle problem was worsened by corrosion.   Anyone recall where her problem occured?  Rust belt or no?

Aircraft have been fly by wire for well over 20 yrs.  No crashes there,  but there is a different quality standard , plus multiple redundant systems.

Hey Frank,  we will be doing that silver solder job again at work within the next month. Is the trim small enough to ship to me and we can solder them for you?  I think I can find some brass screws.
Do you want #8 or #10 studs?

I had a similar problem with a late 80's El Camino V6,  throttle body.  Checked that there was fuel coming to the injectors in the throttle body, but in reality the pump would not provide enough pressure to spray into the intake.  Did a new pump and all was well.  It also had been working intermittently for a few days.

Enjenjo,  we do this sort of thing at work often.  Use the silver solder with the white powder flux.  Use lots of flux, it washes off later with hot water.  We find it easier to make a ring of silver solder,  like a split lock washer. Just wrap it around a rod in a slow turning drill or drill press and then split it with an exacto knife. Drill the brass trim to just clear the major of the brass stud but do not drill thru.  You have a mill or drill press.  Just drill but do not break through.  Saves the filing later.  You can buy brass studs,  try Mcmaster carr.   We usually silver solder brass to brass even though you can solder a steel stud in.
Set it all up with the brass stud up,  the silver solder ring around the stud and then use your o/a torch from the bottom.  You can watch it flow.  Plating is easy,  but you can have a problem with the solder dissolving if the plater needs to strip and replate.  Not always,  just depends on the stripper.  Fine if he does it right the first time.  We have only had the problem once and then just resoldered them and the plater knew what not to do the next time.  I assume you'll  do chrome over nickel over copper flash.

Daily is a 71 Ford short box styleside, yes AZ virgin sheetmetal. Nice driver, 5.0 HO Mustang engine with AOD.
Anyway, I was always annoyed by the wavey woopy hood, assumed that someone had sat on it at one time in the flat area.  So when the local pick a part got in a long bed with mint hood, I was all over it. $25 and perfect, original paint.  Removed the trim and emblems, welded up the holes,  blocked it out.  Wow this was looking great.  Should clean and paint the underside too.  Now really looked nice........but noticed it had a kinda flimsy feel to it.  Oh look .....there is some of that foam insulation in a spray can stuff.  You know ....for filling cracks in houses around the doors & windows.  Yea,  that'll give the hood some "body".  Five cans later I had a really solid hood and a foot of the lightweight "balls"  on the floor.  Carved the excess bulges off with a hacksaw blade.  Nice......sit  back with a cold one and admire it.....
Next day, flip it over to block it out one more time..........and you know the rest of the story...........wavey like a rolling sea.......Bulged up wherever there was a filled web in the hood.
 Now how does one remove that stuff??? Torch and burn it out .....blister that nice paint?  Or add 1/4 inch of bondo and block it some more......cracks later from the heat ?
Or paint it and install it and say ....oh well it is just an old truck?  What would you do ?