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well... it was bought by jeff.... look for it at an up coming racing event.

i dont know if i should admit to this... but i know who is trying to buy it, and the intended purpose they have i mind...

i use an old serpintine belt around the pulley, then a set of vise grips to pinch the belt close to the pulley, wrap the other end around a near by cross member, long cheater on the breaker bar, and give quick hard pulls, usually
will break it loose.

the follow up, sensors looked good, no codes.

the motor in this sob, is the dirtiest, oiliest mess you would ever want to see,  it had some seals that were leaking, which i changed while doing the timing belt, I pulled the wires, and plugs today, the wires on the radiator side were dripping with oil, the drivers evidently don't use a funnel when adding oil, and must only get a half a quart in when they add a quart

and the plugs on the 2 and 4 cyl showed arcing along the base of the plug, the boots on those plugs felt soft, and looked larger than other wires(swelled due to the oil?).

change out all the plus and wires runs like a new van, ... ok it runs good for a van having 272k on it.

thank you for the ideas.

no engine codes, or lights.

i drove it all day friday no problems, night driver drove it 70 miles, said it was running good, he went around a corner and accelerated ( punched it) and it started backfiring, and stumbling.

i found the rear cam was 1 tooth off, replaced the timing belt, set it dead on the marks, and it fired right up, but still has the stumbling back firing.

no i have not checked the fuel pressure, yet.

2000 dodge 3.0, idles  good, slowly accelerate, it will hit the rev limiter, but if you punch it, it backfires.  driving, it sounds runs good in gear, accelerate slowly runs good till about 30 mph, then stumbles. put your foot into it, and it stumbles and back fires.

has a new timing belt, and it is dead on the marks on the lower pulley and the cam pulleys.

we put 3 brand new autozone yellow batteries in 3 different cabs last october, since then everyone of them has died, one cab has had 3 different batteries, and the other 2 cabs have had 2 batteries each, all under warrantee. they (autozone) wheel their little test cart out and test the battery and the altenator, and everytime it says the battery is bad.  put a new battery in and everything tests ok.

i am believing they have crap batteries.

pcv valve, screws directly to the intake, and has a hose connecting to the valve cover, and there is vacumm on the hose from the valve.

the pvc hose connects to the valve cover closest to the radiator.

motor has not overheated in the last 125k that i am aware of, i did replace the water pump last may though, and the passages looked ok.

the rear valve cover has a hose 1/2" dia., that runs to the air box, this hose has the pressure on it, with the engine running and the hose disconnected at the airbox, you place your thumb over the end of the hose and the pressure builds quite rapidly.

i wish i had a pressure guage so i could  measure the amount...

the exhaust is clean, no puff at take off, so it is not burning the oil, just blowing it out at the seals.

2000 dodge caravan, with 3.0 v6, 270k,  the motor runs strong, gets great gas mileage (18 city/21 hiway), but is using a quart every 700 miles.

it seems to be blowing it out the cam seals, and the front crank seal.

i have replaced pcv valve, and the breather hose that runs from the valve cover to the air cleaner seems to have a lot of pressure built up, and the air filter seems to get saturated with oil on the lower half....

if you dont have the dip stick in ( a driver broke it off, and it took a couple days to find one) it blows oil all over.

should it have pressure like that?

wait until you start changing them, then you will know why they want so much.


the upper nuts are a bugger. spray them down a couple days before you attempt to remove them.

the passenger side isn't to bad, but the driver side is living 7734. you can see the nut from the wheel well, but you cant get a wrench on it because of fuel lines... the cut out in the cross member is too close to the body to work a wrench if you got large hands. Most guys on the crown vic boards, locate where the nuts are from inside the trunk area, and use a hole saw to drill a 1.5 " hole above the nut, then use a socket from inside the trunk to loosen the nuts, and to retighten the new shock, then seal a piece of steel/alum over the hole when finished.

i check in here every evening, and i do learn something new at least once a day, and although i read every post, some times i have to ponder my wording, and by the time i figuire out how to say what i have to say, someone else has said it.... thankyou Frank and fat cat for all that you do

phat rat...

if your going to be heading east on 84, check out vintage automotive in mtn home, huge yard, lots of 20's and 30's tin....

i have found that my local true value is the place to start , they seem to have the best selection, the box stores here only have the common sizes and only up to grade 5 in limited sizes.... i would rather pay a little more, and only have to drive one place to get what i want.

plus i prefer to keep the "little" guy in business.

when i painted the 50, 5 years ago, i went with martin/seymour single stage, and then "fixed" any errors, and scuffed the entire vehicle, then shot a clearcoat over the top of it. the paint hasn't faded, and i had a slight bit of damage last year after the house burned, ( the cleanup people stacked boxes in the shop, and they fell over and did a number on the side), but when i resprayed the damage, it blended quite well

http://www.crownvic.us/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1138&d=1187760204

and

http://www.crownvic.us/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1139&d=1187760217

Frank, been there and done that with the wax string! It came in handy on the flight line.

Whatever happened to the stretchy "F-4" tape?

f4 tape... i loved using that stuff.... havent seen it in years though, i worked on f 111's (avionics) and repaired numerous harness's with the wax string...