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A couple things to consider, the longer the Pitman arm, compared to the steering arm, the faster the steering. This means, if you want a long Pitman arm for the look, then start with a slow ratio box. Much under 2  turns lock to lock on the steering is a bit twitchy.

I came up with an idea on how to make a cowl steering box out of most any box, where the length of the pitman shaft does not matter. You could even use a Vega box.

I will do a mockup tomorrow, and show you what it is.

Sounds good  

I have done a bunch of research, and it seems that an early sixties or 70s Mopar steering box can be adapted to get cowl steering.

For my  fenderless 27 T bucket, the body will sit on the frame with no channel. The front axle will be a Magnum 4" drop beam mounted suicide.
I'm building hairpin radius rods.

The body is an original steel body so has opening doors.

I'd like to try the Mopar box and do a cowl steering setup to give me more footroom.

Anyone have any info you can provide on how to set these up ?

How do you determine where the box mounts and where the hole in the body is best placed ?
I am wondering about the location and pitman arm length ,travel and all that in relation to the hairpin radius rod as well as little things like being able to open the little roadsters driver door without hitting the pitman arm...

 
Also, how do you determine the length of the pitman arm ? I will be using early ford spindles and magnum steering arms.  

Any suggestions or solid help you can offer ?

Hope someone can educate me      .

Larry

Hi Larry,

I just went to Street Rodder magazine's website because I remembered they did an article in a recent issue. I don't know if this is the actual article but it's a start.

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0908sr_gas_alley_street_rods_cowl_steering_conversion_kit/index.html

My52Chebby

Thanks, and I appreciate your efforts. I came across that one and also found a thread over on the HAMB where they condemned it as being totally inadequate and poorly engineered to the point of being dangerous.

Apparently the Corvair box is too small and the way they mounted it leaves a whole lot to be desired.

Larry.

I have done a bunch of research, and it seems that an early sixties or 70s Mopar steering box can be adapted to get cowl steering.

For my  fenderless 27 T bucket, the body will sit on the frame with no channel. The front axle will be a Magnum 4" drop beam mounted suicide.
I'm building hairpin radius rods.

The body is an original steel body so has opening doors.

I'd like to try the Mopar box and do a cowl steering setup to give me more footroom.

Anyone have any info you can provide on how to set these up ?

How do you determine where the box mounts and where the hole in the body is best placed ?
I am wondering about the location and pitman arm length ,travel and all that in relation to the hairpin radius rod as well as little things like being able to open the little roadsters driver door without hitting the pitman arm...

 
Also, how do you determine the length of the pitman arm ? I will be using early ford spindles and magnum steering arms.  

Any suggestions or solid help you can offer ?

Hope someone can educate me      .

Larry

PM me your email addy

Done, thanks Jack  

There fixed that   :oops:   , thanks for the info, sent you another message

Larry

PM me your email addy

Done, thanks Earl  

I've got mine standing on it's nose right now. I'll get some pics later today. What do you need measured?

I need detailed pictures of the body support siderails where they attach to the firewall inside the cowl as well as from inside the seating area and possibly from underneath too.

I also need to see what they look like back where the seat is as well as the sides.

The measurements would be the width and location of crossmembers and the width of the supports and body too  at various points such as where the crossmembers are , where the doors start and at the rear of the seating area. Size of seat, location and height of seat supports etc.

Total width of the body at the rear of the bucket would help.

Basically any picture or measurement that you think would help me get this body dialed into where it should be.

I can give you my e-mail address if you could send me some stuff it would be greatly appreciated.

Larry.

Anyone here have pictures detailing the body support structure in the bottom of a 26-27 T roadster body ?

I want to see how the side rails and crossmembers go as well as the seat support structure etc.

Measurements would be great as well.

All that stuff was missing or cobbled together when my Touring body was turned into a bucket and I want to build it all to replace it.

Larry

They are out there. Just keep looking. Here is mine , bought just recently.

looks like it has some metal repair on it already...  seems in nice shape , should do well.

Some of th e  new glass bodies have been re-designed for more interior space?

A neighbor of mine in the 70's had a real Henry steel T-bucket with a Mopar 273 - 4 speed power.  Very fast little car

Yes, the body was worked on with a bunch of new metal put into the lower edge.  You can see all the new metal.

Since it was a touring body it is missing the small curve that gives it the "bucket" look at the bottom rear corner.

I am going to solve that problem though as I bought a couple of "bun" patch panels with the curve and will weld them in to get the real bucket look.

Should be nice with the 4" stretch behind the doors.

Gonna build a 331 stroker Ford 302 for it.

Larry.

[steel]

Shadow Rods have redesigned a 27 body to fit on a 32 frame.  They are really nice and are steel too.

They call it an XL 27

If I wanted to put out the bucks to build a car from all new parts it looks like a very nice choice.

http://www.shadowrods.com/

They are out there. Just keep looking. Here is mine , bought just recently.

That's your best shirt  

I think you might be a candidate for "what not to wear"  or maybe some reality make over show  

Good info, thanks. I'll study it and learn.

Larry.

Somehow Wayne you have left me feeling a little confused ! I'm afraid I don't know Fords very well.   :oops:

Larry

My 302 from the donor 72 Maverick appears to have a points type distributor.

I want to change over to electronic, what year car can I grab a distributor from when I visit the wrecking yard ?

Also, what else should I grab with the distributor while I'm there ?

Larry

That jumper info is right on the money. If there are any in seat sensors at all they need to be removed and by passed for everthing to work properly in most cases.