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I'm still relatively new to this board, so, I'm assuming that you're the goto guy for trannys. I have a 93 caprice wagon with the 4l60e. I did some digging and discovered that impending system failure is indicated by a hard 1-2 shift. I've had this shift for about a year. I finally took it to my mechanic. He changed the filter, pan gasket, vehicle speed sensor and the associated o-ring. As expected, I shelled the tranny after about 2 weeks. I have a 1-2 shift but it goes into neutral on the way to 3rd. His new tech is a GM tranny specialist. How much should a rebuild cost? I know every shop is different, but, a good round number will do. Also, can you recommend a good performance shift kit that will handle a few extra HP and not puke after a few thousand miles? Sorry for the long post but I'm not used to dealing with this new fangled stuff.

Is it wrong that I got 19 out of 20 correct? Did I mention that I'm only 32. Did I also mention that I'm really interested in 40's and 50's culture.

I have one hard and fast rule in life: Never hit girls. But, that rule has been superseded by a chick taking a swing at me. If she thinks she man enough to  swing she's man enough to get whats coming. That is kinda chickes**t of her to get * at you but still not move the car. She was probably scared of it overheating or losing that primo spot she had to get up at 3am to set the lawn chair in.

I will be driving the Merc to Salina this weekend for the spectacular so hopefully I'll get enough miles on it to clean out the grease in the pump. I figure if it fries, I'll just pop the belt off and fix it when I get there.

Afternoon fellas, I rebuilt the PS pump on my '66 425 Buick last month. It's the old stlye round can and pump with alarge cap on top. I closely followed the instructions that came with the o-ring kit (that's about the only parts needed for a rebuild). I packed the vanes of the pump with chassis grease on the recommendation of a mechanic friend. When I reassembled the pump, I bled the pump and rack like I did on some of my other cars (wheels up, motor runnung, steering from left to right slowly). The pump still howls and moans like the fluid level is low. The level is right where it needs to be. What did I do wrong? Did I overlook something? What pointers cn ya'l give me. Thanks.

Just remember:

Grandchildren and grandparents get along so well because they have a common enemy.

Theres a product called clear bra which is a 6mil clear plastic (it's tuff stuff)....... once it's put on it's hard to tell it's there
Check with your local tint shop.....
Email me your address and I'll send you a small piece from what I have left so you can see what it's like

MM64  

Thats the other stuff I was trying to think of. I know it's made by 3M and you can get it rolls. My mechanic friend has it on his wife's xterra and it looks REALLY good.

ooh yeah i forgot..  i want to keep the same color so..bedliner is not an option.

You do know that spray-on bedliner can be tinted to match the exterior color. Also, if you want it relatively smooth and shiny, tell them not to spray on the final coat. The final is what gives it the rough texture.

Hey pretty soon you can have electric steering

I can barely keep tranny fluid in the PS res. long enough for regular power steering!!!

From the info I can gather, the pump turns on at 15" of Hg and off at 20" of Hg. I have also seen a tee at the booster fitting with one side going to the manifold and the other going to the pump.

I really think I'm going to need a Vac. pump and resivoir for my power brake setup. I'm going to try it with manifold vac first. If I use a vac. pump, does it hook directly to the booster or should I run it to a resivoir first? Any good suggestions on mounting locations? I'm thinking closer to the booster the better. Am I right?

I think you're fine. I've got a 51 Merc with a 66 buick 425 in it. I drive it reasonably hard and haven't had a problem yet. But, I just have a few hundred miles on it though.

ECI's RPVs are brass. No color coding here.

Thanks for the replys guys. When I pulled the calipers off the front Mon. night, they were cooked along with the rotors and pads. When I had it in the alignment shop, the tech said that the left caliper was stuck. I'm going to replace the calipers/pads, have the rotors turned and pull the RPV out of the front circuit and see what that does to the system. My thinking is that the stuck caliper, after being unstuck, isin't retracting like it should, dragging, heating the fluid and causing the other caliper to do tthe same. I also need to adjust the booster pin length. I wish enjenjo would let me borrow that cool lil tool he made.

Is there a way to test which lb. setting the RPV's are? I'm thinking that my ECI units might be reversed. I had a problem with the back dragging and heating, now I have the same problem with the fronts.