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I'm ready to wire my Deuce 5 window project.   Where do you guys that have built a Deuce before run the wiring through the firewall to the front of the car?   I'm using a Ron Francis kit and the panel is mounted on the inside of the firewall in front of the driver.   I'd like to keep it as neat as possible and as hidden as possible.  Engine is a zz4 crate motor.  Pictures would be really appreciated.  This is my first build and I hate to keep asking these basic questions, but this board has been great for answers.  Before long I'll be posting video of the fireup...YeeHaaaa!

Electrolysis is not the issue, the real potential for damage is rogue currents passing through the transmission and damaging the bearings.

During cranking, the battery is supplying hundreds of amps and it does not take much current weaving its way through the transmission to burn the bearings.

The closer the earth lead is to the starter the better.    Also it is important to run a short cable from the ground point to the body, otherwise the transmission will be the return path for all ignition and lighting loads.

Would it then be alright to ground to a starter bolt instead of the bellhousing?  I'm trying to stay towards the rear of the block.  Thanks.

If I ground the battery, which is located in the trunk, to a transmission bellhousing bolt on a tranny with an aluminum case; will there be a problem with corrosion?  It will be much easier and cleaner to ground to the bellhousing as opposed to elsewhere.  Just wondering if the dissimilar metals involved will set up electrolysis.  Thanks.

seadog answer us.
Dave[/quote]

Appreciate all the replies.  I think maybe I didn't do too good a job explaining the problem.  It's not that the brake pedal goes to the floor.  The issue is that the pedal ARM that connects the brake PEDAL to the mastercylinder pushrod at a pivot point under the car hits the OUTSIDE of the toeboard.  As mentioned earlier, I ran the lines and bled the system while the body was off the car.  The pedal is good and hard and everything works like a top with the exception that the brake arm will not go into the hole in the floorboard.  It is stopped from fully entering by interferrence with the outside of the toeboard...there is no more adjustment left in the pushrod for the direction that it needs to go in order to move the brake arm outward.  I don't think simply enlarging the hole is the answer either as it looks like the hole would have to be REALLY LARGE to eliminate the problem.  I will try to take pictures in a day or so...I've been laid up with a really nasty chest cold for the past few days.  Thanks again.

I'm putting my Deuce 5 window project together for the final time before paint and have run into a brake pedal clearance problem.  The brake pedal arm hits the outside of the toe board before it goes in far enough for the pushrod and the pivot attachment point to mate up.  It appears that the push rod is about an inch too long.  It looks to me like the push rod needs to be shortned, there is no more adjustment left between the clevis and the pivot, but I thought I'd check in here before I whack it.  Is this the right solution or am I missing something?  I plumbed the brakes while the body was off the frame and until the body went back on I had no way to know this was going to be a problem.  I'm using a Wilwood alum master cylinder and 4 wheel discs.

According to an article I read once, fiberglass is only stable to the highest temperature to which it has been exposed.  

If the internal temperature during the mixing/curing operation reached 110(?) degrees, the 'glass would be stable until that temp was exceeded.

Parking a dark-colored body in the South during the summer would very easily exceed that temperature, causing the 'glass to be unstable.  .....Again,  after any movement that may occur, the 'glass is now stable to the higher temperature.

The article suggested baking the body as a way to stabilize the 'glass before painting.   .....I can't recall the recommended temperature, but I think it was in the 200-225 degree range.  .....Maybe a 'net search can provide more info.

Bingo, that's what I've heard too.  Summers in the South, where I am, can get really hot and I'm worried that the body needs to be exposed to a level of heat greater than the triple digits that it will encounter when it's on the road.  Can anybody shed more light on the details here.  200-225 degrees in a paint booth sounds like it would certainly exceed the worst case scenario, but then again, maybe not?  Thanks.

My glass Deuce 5 window project is just about ready for paint and I need some advice on the best way to cure the body so that I don't get print through after the first hot summer day I'm on the road.  I've heard that mounting the body on the frame and letting it sit overnight in a paint booth is the way to go, but would like verification of this before I go forward.  At what temperature does the booth need to be?  How long does it need to sit?  Does it need to cool off and heat up over a number of cycles to fully cure?  I've also heard that all I need to do is to let it sit outside for a few hot days before painting.  Since winter is here this last is not much of an option.  Here are the basic facts...I've had the body for about three years.   It has never been out of the shop where the temperature is 70 degrees year round.  When I picked up the body it was in the dead of winter, so it didn't get exposed to much heat on the trailer on the way to the shop.  Thanks.

There is no underlying finish to anodizing.  Anodizing is an aluminium oxide coating that is essentially "grown" from the aluminium surface.

You're right, it didn't erode the underlying finish...more like etched it good, to the point that it was very rough and pitted.  Sort of like the surface of the moon.

[I tried the easy off oven cleaner and haven't much success with it. It kinda etched the metal a bit. [/quote]

Hey guys, thanks to all who replied.  I tried oven cleaner...left the fitting overnight in a zip loc bag into which I sprayed a liberal dose of oven cleaner.  It totally hosed the fitting.  The anodizing came off, so did the uderlying finish.  I guess the answer is NOT to leave it in the oven cleaner overnight.  Oh well, I was just following that old adage, Too much is just about right.  I solved the prob;em by getting a steel fiting.  Live and learn.

I have some -6 AN fittings that I'm going to use in hooking up the fuel line.  I've heard that it is possible to strip the blue off of them, leaving a shiny aluminium finish.  What is used to get the blue off?  Somebody told me to use whitewall cleaner and I've been soaking the fittings in whitewall cleaner for about half an hour now and there is no change.  What gives?

Today while finishing up a few things on my Duece chassis I noticed that the master cylinder moves ever so slightly when the pedal is pushed.  The movement is so slight that it's hardly noticable and I don't have a tool in the shop that would be capable of measuring it.  Nevertheless, it seems that there should be NO movement.  I am concerned that over time this will cause premature wear and perhaps fatigue the brake lines.  The M/C is installed in what is pretty much the standard location using grade 5 bolts and the bracketry that was in the frame when I got it...picture attached.  What do you guys think?  Am I right to be concerned or is this nothing to worry about?  Since the fame is in paint at this point I'd obviously like not to have to reinforce the bracket, but if this is a safety issue I guess I'll have to.  Thanks.

I'm setting up the rear end of my Deuce chassis.  Do the adjustable ends of the LOWER bars go toward the front or toward the back... or does it matter?  I have the TOP bars with the adjustable ends toward the rear, so they are accessable from under the car when/if they need furter adjustment.  Thanks.

This is a continuation of my earlier post re Wilwood 4 wheel discs on a Deuce chassis, using a Wilwood dual chamber aluminum m/c.   The lines are run, no leaks anywhere, and I have opened the top two bleed screws on each caliper and bled the lines until no bubbles are present.  The brakes work, BUT I have only one inch of pedal travel from full off to full lock.  Ths doesn't seem right to me.  Is it normal for the pedal to have this small amount of travel from full off to full on?

PSSS: Where the heck is Seadog?[/quote]

Seadog is right here, just spent a couple of hours on my brakes.  Found that I have to deal with a leaky switch connection before I can proceede with this here bleed thingy.  Thanks for all the input.  I think I understand what I need to do to complete the job.

I've just finished bending the lines and hooking up my brakes.  Since this is my first ever attempt at a build I naturally have some stupid questions.  Bear with me.  This is a Wilwood 4 wheel disc system on a Deuce chassis.  Each caliper has what appears to be 4 bleed screws.  Each caliper has 4 pistons.  Do I have to get the bubbles out of each bleed screw,or is it sufficient to bleed one screw?  I know this is probably basic stuff but we all have to start somewhere.  Now that the laughter has subsided can somebody please answer.  Thanks.