Messages

Hello Phat Rat Yes and I should have posted my last entry a little different. The frames I have found are all 100% original. I do not want to get into the problems associated with frames from other makes or vintage. I have seen several frame swaps but never one I liked other than a Deuce frame under an A Roadster. But then that is just my bias.

Thanks for your help.

dave

Hello Russ, Thanks for the reply.
I have found a number of frames I just need to select the best for the car.
I have sent you a PM with my email address.

Thank you
dave

enjenjo, Thanks for the info. I think the Granada rear is a winner as well as the 2004R trans. I am starting the search around here for a frame or donor car. Do you have contact info for Weedeater?

Thank you
dave

I have a 47 Ford long door coupe that has suffered a poor frame clip job. It has a 78 Camaro clip that was mounted 2 inches too far forward so that the car now has a 116 inch wheelbase. Stock is 114 inches and now the front wheels are not centered in the fender opening and also it appears as if the front track is a little too wide. It took me a while to figure what about the car looked wrong.
I want to put a stock frame under the car and start all over.
I have had 2 other 47 long doors but that was over 40 years ago so I am relearning the car. When I had my other 47s the process was more simple, (hop up the flathead, pull the flathead put in an Olds, pull the Olds and put in the Hemi, then start collecting transmission parts)

My questions for the great knowledge base here:

1. Will the frame from other 46-48 Fords fit without modification (2 door sedan, short door coupe, 4 door sedan and ragtop)?
2. Opinions of M II IFS conversions, who does it right who does it wrong?
3. What about a dropped axel for this car? Who is best?
4. What about raised crossmembers?
5. Suggestions for a good rear, the engine will be a mild 350 of about 275 hp and a turbo 350 or 700R4,  I will be running 15 inch wheels front and rear.

I know this is a lot of questions to answer and I do appreciate any help you can offer.
I will be glad to send you my email address to your PM if you wish.

Thanks to all
dave

48 Ford please check your PM

Thank you
dave

I have been using paint thinner/mineral spirits for over 10 years and am quite pleased with it. It is less expensive than just about anything else (about $10.00/5 gallons ) and it dries super fast and leaves the parts super clean with no oil left on the surface.
I have not bothered to check the flammability of the stuff but I always use it outside and am careful about sparks and the like.

Check with the local Ford store for the proper lube but it is probably SAE 80-90 Hypoid and you will need a posi or limited slip additive/ friction modifier for it as well.

Good Luck
dave

The procedure for replacing the seal in the car for those who care is as follows;
After removing the pan remove the rear main cap, loosen the remaining main caps and allow the crank to drop about .020-.030".  Screw installer/remover tool into old seal and while rotating crank in the direction of seal removal, pull on remover and slide old seal out of the block. To install new seal push installer tool into the seal groove of the block over the top of the crank and thread into the center of one end of the new seal, oil outside of new seal and pull into the block while turning the crank in the direction of seal travel. After pulling seal fully around the seal groove, remove installer and tighten all the main caps while leaving the rear cap off, this will reseat the crank. Trim the new seal ends flush to .030 long and then reinstall the rear main cap with new seal in place. Torque to spec then rotate crank 2 revolutions and remove rear main cap and check to make sure no seal material is crushed on to main cap mating surface. Remove any crushed material from main cap seating surface and then reinstall main cap and tighten to spec. Reinstall oil pan, oil and then hope it worked.
If you would care to try this method I can loan you the tool. The tool looks like a small corkscrew on the end of some speedometer cable with a "T" handle on the other end.

Good Luck
dave

My wife's 96 Caddie STS has a booster fan that provides air through a floor duct that runs under the center console. I do not know the type of fan, fans location (sounds like it is in the duct near the register in the rear of the console), nor the cfm rating. The control for the fan is on the rear of the console just above the vent registers and is variable in speed and is completely independent of the fan/blower for the front of the car.

You might test drive one and try it out.

Good luck
dave n

Thanks to all who took the time to express their opinions, experiances and to list the technical info.
All the help is greatly appreciated.
I will take all in consideration as I build my car.
I will return to do more brain picking, and post a photo now and then, this is the best of the streetrod forums.

Thanks all
dave

Hello, This question has probably been answered a hunnert times but I missed all of them.

What is your experience with PAW? I am most concerned with the amount of over bore and the tolerance used to fit the forged pistons in their block kits. Basically how good is their attention to detail?
I have looked at the available crate motors and decided to build my own, a chev 350 somewhere in the 325-350 hp range.
I have all the needed measuring tools for the build.
My main focus is dependable street power.

I would use local machine shops but they all have a reputation of over priced mediocre work. The largest in the area is a rebuilder that specializes in rebuilds using blister pack parts from Brazil.

This engine will be put in a 47 Ford with a  700 R4 and will be street driven only.

Thanks for your help and opinions.

dave