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Hey guys, thanks, lots of good ideas. Not brake shoe problem, it is the clutch shaking the whole car and not a little. Motor mounts are good, replaced and checked. Linkage is solid.
This past weekend I pulled it all apart and looked at all the marks and checked and measured. The input shaft is a perfect fit. Only .002 of clearance and fully into the pilot. Dead on.  I did not see much oil,  but maybe ....hard to say.  So I washed everything in simple green and then with brake clean. Sanded the flywheel with 180 and washed again. Put it all together and backed it  out.....silky smooth....no chatter at all.  Drove it to work,  8 miles and parked it. At the end of the day backed it out and sure enough it was starting to chatter just a little in reverse.  OK in first.  I think it is an oil contamination....but really.  8 miles and enough oil gets on the flywheel to make it chatter.  Not bad but it is starting.  Does this sound possible ?  I'm thinking that spin on oil filter adapter is causing it.  Yes I did have a poor adapter at first and it did puke big time. Switched to another one with a Ford filter and all is dry.  Yes it does have way too much oil pressure,  80 lbs on the highway and 60 at idle.
Also I think I need one of those shields for the lower part of the bell that keeps the oil mist off the flywheel.  Still don't get it,  the engine doesn't leak much.

Wow it has been 5 yrs since I posted this.  I don't drive it much,  but the last few weeks I've driven it daily.  Backing up, the chatter shakes the whole car.....bad.  I took it to a local shop that does mostly muscle cars (friend) and they took it all apart, dial indicator to the flywheel and no runout in any plane. Everything looked perfect. Hays flywheel, Luk clutch, new pilot bearing. You could see from marks on the input shaft that it was riding fully in the pilot bearing. On leaving that shop there was no chatter, nice and smooth.  BUT  100 miles later it is chattering again. I kept driving it  and noticed that the chatter would come and go,  most of the time it would chatter,  but maybe 1 time out of 20  it would be smooth.  Then I noticed that the speed vibration, about 65 mph,  would also come and go.  Usually at speed you could see the hood vibrate and feel it thru the whole car, it would harmonic, about a 4 sec period. Once in a while there would be no vib.....nice and smooth all the way up to 75 mph.  Realized that the clutch chatter and speed vibration must have the same cause ....and it comes and goes. Something is floating off center .....must be the pilot bearing.  Tore it all apart last night and pilot looks fine and marks on the input shaft show that it is fully in the pilot.  Only though is that there was the slightest indication of oil on the flywheel surface near the center.  Oil can cause clutch chatter,  but not speed vib and if that was the cause then it would always be there.  engine does leak a little oil but not much, bottom of the oil filter (spin on conversion kit) is wet.  
Ideas ?   66 chevelle, stock 396, 4 speed all original stuff, no wear in the clutch linkage, rebuilt several times. Same proble for 5 yrs now and maybe 3000 miles.

Wow, I can see the quality there and I am definitely not a lowrider fan. Lace and artwork actually is a good break from the norm,  someone has a lot of $ and time in this, ya gotta respect the perseverence.

Yes I had the same issue with those Ford pumps, noisy leakers. Frank put me onto the van ones but I never could find one where the GM Saginaw pump would line up with my existing pulleys.  Finally took pump and cast aluminum bracket from a 93 van and grafted it onto the 90 Mustang alum bracket on mine. A lot of cutting and grinding to fit them together and even made a jig to hold them in exact alignment while welding them together. Has been working weel for a year now. Even used the junkyard pump, silent and no leaks. Well worth the effort.

OK, I will be using the original big stainless headlights. There is a ring around the front inner lip that is not stainless and has rusted to nothing so I'm machining a new one of aluminum and will bond it in with epoxy.
Question: I want to get the reflector out of a new car that accepts the halogen bulb, hopefully a round one and then mount it in the old bucket. Anyone done this ? Suggestions ?

Wow, kinda split decision. The original big lights will cost big $ to straighten and polish the stainless.  The small ones with tiny signal lights on top are available reasonable and I can paint them. Solves the signal light decision.  Still, I like the look of the big stainless ones.  I'm a procrastinator, so I'll make mounts and then decide.  Goodguys Phx is next weekend and I'll gander the fenderless rods there. Will let you know. Thanks for the feedback.

mmmmm  need a little practise on resizing pics...last one may be too small.

Getting back to work on the 34 and doing wiring of fan, horns, etc and looking for a place to put the relays....one thing led to another and I should mount the headlights too.  I have the original rough front fenders but that will take years so I'm running rear fenders only for now.   Maybe a hood top only. Yes I know the grill needs to be more upright, the fan is in the way and I'll get it corrected,  but which headlights would you use?  I'm kinda leaning towards the big stainless originals but would like some input.  Also any advice on signal lights ?  If I use the painted little headlights with the tiny light on top then there is my answer.  I only have one but I think they are available ??

I have a pair of factory 78 Ford pickup 31 spline axles. Also have a decent CNC machine shop, turning and milling if I can make any custom parts. Autocad design.

We have what you need at work and if you recall we are at Mclintock and university if you want to stop by and I can give you some resin and hardner.  You were at our shop some years ago to get workbenches......recall ?  It is called stycast and is mil spec aerospace grade.  We buy it by the gallon so no one will miss a cup full.  Problem is that I'm away till the monday after easter.  Can you wait ?

Not to highjack this post but....... I've got a 5.0 Liter (302) mustang motor in my old ford pickup daily and I'm tired of the howling / moaning of that power steering pump plus it is leaking.  I've heard that even new ones make that noise so can I switch to a GM or ? pump  or even the older Ford pumps. I do have the serpentine belt as it is about a '90 Mustang engine and the box is the original (good) 70 Ford pickup.  I'm very leery of all the different brackets that Ford used over the years  but did they ever use a GM pump ?

I work for a company that does aerospace connectors, you fellows that were in the service may recall them as Cannon plugs.  Very high quality, circular with a twisting motion to mate them and lock in place.  Kinda overkill on a hot rod but we are all excentric to some degree. Generally they mount to a panel for the signals to pass thru which is not always the case on a hot rod. Enjenjo has  a pair under his bench and may comment.  Post some more detail and maybe I can advise.  They can cost $40 each or more and you need to buy both plug and receptacle.

Tony, you only  need the hard high strength steel if you are pushing mega horsepower and exceed the yield of the material.  There are a lot more problems with gears that are not cut correctly and wearing prematurely.  I bought a set of new 9 inches 3.70  gears from US Gear and they are noisy.  I've reset / rechecked them twice and so has the shop I bought them at.  It is just the way they are.  A lot of guys I've talked with prefer original Ford gears...even if they are very old or lots a miles they are quiet (silent) and don't break if set up correctly.

I have fooled around a lot with hood hinges on various cars and trucks and it is really tough or impossible to find good used ones. On my Chevelles I must have checked out 20 different used ones and they were all worn to varying degrees.  Seems that no one ever oils them and so they wear and then bind and then the hood bends, which is what your old one looked like.  I can't pass judgement on the repros but from what I could see and hear was that they were not right...and I doubt that 58 chevy hood hinges are available as repros.
I did learn a lot about adjusting them and the springs.  The springs are stretched when the hood is down and so they lose their force with age. Rather dangerous to remove and re install so be careful...only ten fingers.  Anyway,  remove the springs, clean and oil them (not WD40, real motor oil)  and then put them back and the hood on.  Then adjust and adjust and adjust.  You may not get them perfect,  but I've made a silk hood fit well when starting with a cow's ear......or something like that.  The hood adjustment seems to be the reverse direction of what you would think.  Try up and down on the bolts to the car and in and out on the bolts to the hood. Use oil on the bolts and big dia washers,  don't over tighten, just snug till you get it right.  You may surprise yourself.

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