Messages

With all these responses,  I think I have a problem.   If I get this right,  I need MORE cam  or less compression.  More cam would be easy as you say to return and exchange it,  option 1.  
Or option 2 find some later heads as Enjenjo says. mmmmmmmmmm
I know a guy in west Phoenix who has a few sets of heads,  but then I'd need to redo them with hard seats $$$$$$$$$$$$.   But  I get the feeling that that's maybe the best option.  The car has a/c and I will be hooking it up this summer and will be dealing with cooling issues I assume.  
SSSSOOOOooooo  ya'll  agree that open chamber heads and the mild cam  option  is the best overall way to go??
thanks
zzebby :?:

Wow you guys are making me nervous........cause I got impatient today and ordered the cam and other pieces from Summit.
Competition Cams p/n 11-234-3 which is grind  CBXE256H-10
256 degrees duration on intake and 268 on exhaust.
.480 lift on intake and .485 on exhaust
110 degrees lobe separation

I foggily recall from  "the day"  having a built small block with 310 degrees of duration and it was wild but streetable.   The one I ordered today seems mild by compairison??
Anyway,  I'm committed now and if it doesn't work out ......well........ pull the engine and change it again.  .........or sell it and finish the coupe.
Will post the results
thanks

Besides here you might want to post this on the Chevy Talk Performance board.

Do you know what compression you are running in the motor.  If it is high a milder cam might give you too much compression and present detonation problems.

If it is  a stock low compression smog motor a cam with less duration might really wake it up.

c ya, Sum

It's a fairly stock motor,  but not low compression smog moter.  It is the 66 original,  so with closed chamber heads and the overbore it's probably 10 :1  even with stock pistons.

Maybe a bit OT  ,  but .....have a old rumpedy rumpedy 396  BBC that was built up in the 70's  with a long duration, high overlap cam.  Was fun to drive at first but now it needs to be more of a daily.  Stick shift 4 speed, 66 Chevelle with 3.55 gears.   Now is stock intake and quadrajet, headers, stock heads with hard seats and a .030 overbore.
I'd like a bit more cam than the stock one,  but I've been out of this performance spec area for some time so need to know what is todays "accepted" cam specs or maybe even a recommended grind.
thanks

Pics of the 34 coupe on the next post.......if I can figure out how to reduce size............
zzebby

On my next project I'll take it to the spray on bed liner guys.   Really good adhesion.   I've had two beds done and have 5-6 years on one and still looks new.  I never found the undercoating to stick well enough to prevent rust growing under it  and painting only is little protection and no sound deadner.  
The beadliner guy will spray the floor and inner sides for about $5-600  which is a little pricey,  but the sound and seal will be worth it.
Any input on this stuff?

I've had the same problem with a BBC ...........but couldn't get new pulleys.  Try sanding the grooves to take off the shine and also you might try a better grade belt.  A lot of the belts on the market,  even the supposedly good grades will make noises.  Some of them are on the minimum width even when new.  Manufacturor saves a few pennies by cutting them to the min width and thickness.

Thanks Guys
I'll toss it in the junk heap.  Still,  that triangular brkt with the cable to the carb looks original,  just the way it fits to the firewall.  Maybe these kits are better than I thought.

Should I save the floor and trunk  or try to advertise it? I  really don't want $ for it,  it's just that I spent so many years on my back welding up rust holes that it seems a waste to junk this.  I know they are available repro in pieces,  but an original one piece should be preferred by an A body restorer? Maybe it's a shipping problem.
I don't have space for it so it's days are numbered......

Yes you are right on.  Vacuum canister and magnets on the driveshaft, which I did not get.  Curious item is a triangle shaped bracket on the firewall just above the throttle pedal pivot.  It is painted factory semi black and sure looks factory. A fine cable went thru it to the carb,  but most of it was gone, cut.  Same with the extra arm on the pivot link, looks factory.  There is a rect hole cut thru beside the fuse block that is neat and has a matching grommet.  If this is factory then there is prolly some GTO enthusiast out there who would kill for it.

Try some large heat shrink, slip your connectors thru and then shrink it.  It is not flexible at all so it must move into the door as it is shut so maybe a loose grommet there.
The contacts are probable releasable from the connectors.  Little clip that snaps into the plastic connector...... then you could go with the smaller hose.  See mcmastercarr.com   they have all sorts of tube and sleeving,  could even go with teflon.

Bought this stripped 4 dr just to cut out  the dash and hate to send it to the crusher.  Tried to find a GTO web site to advertise it but they are mostly BS and wanted to send me junk emails to register.  Anyone know a GTO site that is real ??
There are good  FOUR DOOR quarters , good floor and trunk pans and frame if any body wants it.   Does have cruise control that I can't decide if it's factory or not.  Little box says Dana on it and some parts are painted the factory semi black,  but other parts look like cheap add ons.
In Arizona, near Tony.

What about the late model Pontiac GTO, the aussy  powered one.   With a 6 speed or auto would be smooth.
The OHC 6 from the sixries would be cool but not the performance of the new GTO.  EFI  and computer control would make it a great driver.
Tempest from the early sixties had an independent rear transaxle but was  an oddball amd had the flex driveshaft from the engine.   No overdrive, top gear was direct only.
Find a rollover new GTO.

The starter and horn will be ok on 12 volts,  but don't put the ammeter across a 6 volt battery............NNNNNOOOOOHHHHH..........it'll melt  those pigtails in a microsecond and the store people will have to get the first aid kit for your burnt fingers after you stop screaming.
Old cars usually had actual amp gauges where the heavy lead (10 gauge or thicker) went thru it or just thru a loop on the back and read the current via the inductance (one turn for you EE's out there.)  The 6 volt battery would see this "test"  as a direct short circuit and send about a 100 amps thru those wires.  Probably would not hurt the gauge, would peg it momentarily,  but you would not notice, your entire focus would be the flesh burning.........yours.
Modern "amp gauges' are really voltmeters, just calibrated to read as ammeters.   I'm  99.9% sure that is not what is on a 31 Chevy.   You can easily tell,  if the stock wires are big then it's an  ammeter.   If the wires are tiny then it's a voltmeter.
Amps are amps.  They are indifferent to voltage,  don't care if its 6 volts or 60 volts.   If you want to see if it works (and if it really is an ammeter)  then you need some kind of "load"  to make current flow and do something.  Look around your shop for an old fan motor, blower or wiper motor.  These things will pull some amps so you can see the needle move.  A light bulb will not pull enough current to see the needle move.  First use some short wire pigtails to check that the fan motor or whatever works when touching a handy 12 volt battery.  Then run one of the wires thru the ammeter (you may need another wire depending upon whether the ammeter has a loop on the back or two big terminals)  and then touch it to the battery again.  Ammeter will move now.
Most of those old ammeters are pretty much indestructible and it probably still works fine.

Thanks guys.
I'll run down to NAPA tomorrow and order the boots and check out the echlin wires.  I do prefer the plain black color.  If that doesn't pan out then I'll order some Taylor 135 degree ones on line.
Will post a result,  maybe even a pic.

Thanks Guys, but more questions.
C9  how are the plug end boots owner adjustable?  Just bend them to the needed angle and they stay?   That would be preferred as the angle varies.   Does the provided tool crimp the ends well enough that they can be pulled off the dizzy and not leave the terminal behind?
348 tripower     I'm not familiar with these woven fiberglass boots. Are they available on line??
Jokester        good idea ,  I'll do that.  Aim only works in dark, wet, hairy areas..............
Charlie   Enjenjo         Do the taylor or echlin wires have the adjustable feature or do I drive down to the parts store and go back and forth with different wires till I get a set?
thanks

Need some advice on spark plug wires that (1)  resistant to header burning  and (2) have some adjustment to the angle that they point away from the plug.
Have a BBC where some of the wires touch the header.  I know that I'll need to dimple the header with a well placed ball peen blow,  but what brand stands up to the heat best ?
Some plugs will need a straight on boot and others will need a 45 or 90 degree angle boot so this will be a "make it as you go kit".  I assume I'll buy an unterminated kit so that means I'll need a crimper and some of them I've seen are really quality challenged.
Wjhat works for you??

Any advice on heat shields.........ala factory type or ?

zzebby