Messages

To update;

I didn't hear any squealing in my alt, but I did increase my idle speed somewhat, and that seemed to solve the voltmeter reading, but I'm still overheating @ idle.
I think I'd better take a "back-to-basics" approach and flush the cooling system, since it seems that I'm not getting enough cooling from the fan alone, and I've already cleaned the exterior of the rad, so I'm starting to run out of ideas.  Maybe the "stop-leak" I put in a couple of years ago is causing me grief...clogged up some tubes.
Thanks for all your input, and I'll keep you posted (since I know you'll be losing sleep over this) LOL!

What do you have for ignition? Some of the electronic ignitions will not advance properly with low voltage.

Stock HEI.  Again, no apparent problems with anything else electrically.  Seems to start and run fine, but as I mentioned, the headlights (halogen) tend to dim @ idle too.  Should mention that I'm using a 100amp 1-wire alt, which if I recall is supposed to give me about 60 amps @ idle.  I don't ever remember the voltmeter dropping at idle before.  I have a deepcycle marine battery that I'm going to hook up and see if that makes a difference with the voltmeter...I know that one is OK

check your fan belt tention and alternator belt tention

with the engine off..  and the car out of gear.

put you thumb on one of the alternator cooling fan blades...  tighten the belt until it just does not slip... any tighter and it will shorten the life of the water pump bearings... any looser and the belt will slip and it will not charge enough to keep the battery up and the electric fans turning at full speed.


it does sound like a loose belt or bad diodes in the alternator... or a loose or corroded battery cable ..


i dont know about the voltage in optima batterys...

after you remove the surface charge for 1 minute with the engine off and the lights on..

12.65 volts is a 100% charge...
12.45 is a 50%
12.25 os a 25%

with the battery full  and the engine running the voltage should stay at 14.1 or slightly more... but usually not over 14.6volts..
except on a few later model gm alternators..

most batterys can be load tested after bringing it to full charge at many chain parts stores...

Belts are fine, tht's the first thing I checked.  Getting it load tested is a good idea, rule out (or in) the battery.  I haven't had any other issues in the past (includeng late last year) with the voltage drop @ idle, and leaving the charger on too long over the winter is the only difference

Thanks

Have you checked the battery voltage with a load tester? Does the voltage come up when you increase engine speed? Does the starter crank the engine over like it should? Does the cooling fan come on when it should? Is the fan spinning at normal speed?

I've only killed one Optima red top. I left my BMW sitting in the backyard with the alarm system armed for about eight months. The only way I knew the battery died was remote wouldn't unlock the car when i wanted to show it to a potential buyer. Batteries Plus warranteed the battery.
           Jbird

The voltage does come up with the RPM's to about 14.  I wired the fan to run continuously, it seems to be running at a reasonable speed, although as RPM's increase, so does the fan speed (by a little though, not alot)

I was having a dual problem with my cooling system.  It was running cool when I was driving it (never above 120) but when I stopped @ a light etc, it quickly went up to 225+.  I replaced the thermostat, that solved the too cool problem, but it would still overheat in idle.  Coolant level is OK and reasonably fresh (1 year).  Then last night I noticed that my headlights dimmed @ idle too.  Acting on a hunch, I ran the car this morning until warmed up, let it overheat, then stepped on the gas while in park, and the temp started to drop again.  Over the winter, I would occasionally hook up a basic battery charger set to the lowest setting (5 amps) and "top-up" the battery, but one time I forgot and left it for a few days.  My voltmeter drops to below 12 volts in idle and I'm beginning to wonder if I screwed up the battery by leaving it on the charger too long.  It's a Opitma red-top by the way.  Would this make sense?  I would rather not buy another battery if not necessary, but I can't think of anything else.  I'm going to clean the rad as a "hail mary", but it would appear that the rad isn't getting enough airflow @ idle only, and this was never a problem in the past.  I certainly can't leave it like this, because when the temp outside hits 90 and I have the A/C running, the problem will only get worst.  Up till now, the only time I start to go above 200, is in the middle of summer, 90 degrees, A/C on stuck in heavy traffic.  Like I said, if it's doing it now in 70 degree weather, no A/C, I'm going to have big problems later on.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Rob

This is the compensation port, and if there is air coming out of it, the master cylinder is not bled.[/quote]

I assume then i would have to re-bench-blled the M/S.  Would this account for (a) constant air in the line during bleeding, (b) no brake pedal feel and (c) no rear brakes?

Thanks

That is a possibility, since the reduced fluid occured during the last bleeding marathon.  I forgot to mention that one of my ongoing issues is that I can't seem to get the rear brakes bled, I'm getting constant air bubbles.  That's why I was wondering if it's my M/S or residual valve that is the culprit, although I was told not to worry about the bubbles coming out of the hole in the floor of the M/S

I have little hair left from pulling it out, I'm stumped
Since replacing my front brake set-up this winter, I have had no rear brakes....

My set up is as follows

1" bore corvette style master cylinder-7" power booster, all under the floor.

From the master cylinder to the rear, I have a 10 lb residual valve (wildwood) to OEM proportioning (combination) valve from an '87 S10 and then on to my rear (drums, '85 pontiac Bonneville)

For some reason, since I've been trying to bleed the rears, I've lost pressure to the rear brakes, the fluid has just started to "dribble out" where as before is squirted out across the room.  This has started since I changed from the adjustable prop. valve in the rear to the OEM style.  What I have noticed is that the rear chamber of the master cylinder has air bubbles coming out of the hole in the floor when I press the pedal with the M/S cover off.  I also remember reading here some time ago that the Wildwood residual valves were problem prone. Could either of these situations be the problem.  I'm really getting tired of spending $$ and not getting the problem fixed!

For what it's worth, the front set-up is from ECI, 78-81 Camaro calipers with rear rotors, with a 2 lb residual valve.  I wasn't getting huge front brakes when I first tried this set-up out, but the folks @ ECI suggested it might be the adjustable prop valve I was using, which is why I replaced it in the rear.

I'm REALLY stumped and frustrated, and would be forever grateful if someone has an answer.

Thanks

May be a stupid question, but are the OEM (GM) combination/proportioning valves sensitive to their position.  In other words, do they have to be "right-side-up?  I'm installing one on my '37 after a ton of problems with my adjustable unit, but it would fit better and it would be easier to keep the lines tucked up against the framerails if I turned the valve on it's "side"

Thanks

How many of you guys are running F'glas buckets? when i talked to Chevs Of The 40's,they were under the impression that 37's were like 38-9 w a sub body , and the kits would not work W/O it , 37 had none , so how do you attach the the reflector and cork seals? must be something other than a pressure fit w the bezel tightened? screws? One other thing are the OS trim rings used w the chrome bezels?
JY Jeff, I answered you on the Club HR post.keep me posted,Thanks

PM your email too me, and I'll send the pictures I made while making the conversion.  there IS a difference between the 37 & 38 buckets, the 38's do not have the "stand" and are flat on the side that mounts to the grill shell.  The lens & reflector is held in place with the retaining ring which makes a "compression fitting" once it's tightened down

I posted the question about halogens with the original lenses on other forums and was told they get too hot for the glass lenses,if I remember correctly I have cork gaskets on my lenses and is there a better gasket to use with the halogens.  Jeff

I had heard that the halogens are too hot for plastic lenses.  I use glass lenses with the cork gaskets, no problems

yep, figured I'd just get a pr of cheap speedway Deitz for this season as shown above. The halo kit I got is the same as Yogi's, How much time do you have on yours? They said when I called that the buckets could MELT from bulb heat., the Fglass buckets I received have major mold lines in them outS and InS w long dips at the area's. Literally every time I do a car and go to shows. Someone at the show comes up and offers me the parts I need when they see I need them, I am hoping this will happen w the lights if I use obviously wrong lights , I KNOW they are out there, but I think at least  70% of car guys are STILL not on the net or try to sell their stuff actively  

I have 2 years, 5 K miles (don't know how much of that is nighttime with lights, but I have done some reasonable trips 1-2 hours @ night) and now problems.  I was concerned about the heat issue, but I used to check the buckets after a long trip and they did not seem warm at all.  My buckets had some minor mold lines, but nothing that wasn't eaily dealt with.  The only problem I had was to level the flange that the reflector rested on, and if memory serves, I had to extent one side to aloow the reflector to center.  From what I've heard, that is typical for all 'glass.  I'll try and post the second picture again

Having trouble getting picture 2 on!!!  

Interesting;

I found the H/L buckets from Sup Glass Works not that bad, and alot cheaper than real ones too

As far as the halogen conversion, I went with Vintiques (available from Yogis and others), works great, here are a couple pictures

Does anyone have any info on the changes that have to be make to a 40 Ford frame to accept a 700r4 tranny?  I know that Chassis Engineering makes an such a piece that involves cutting the X member and welding in a new piece, but If anyone one has pictures and measurments that they could share I'd really appreciate it

Thanks