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Messages - soldermonkey

#16
LONGHORNS #1



dave
#17
Rodder's Roundtable / Happy Christmas Ya'all!
December 25, 2005, 01:59:29 AM
Merry Christmas everyone.

Please take a moment to remember our troops that serve to keep us free.

dave
#18
Longhorn fan here. I also pull for Nebraska when they are not playing the Longhorns because they have the classiest fans anywhere. I have always been impressed by their spirit and their class.

Hook em Horns, beat usc and Go Huskers beat the Wolverines
#19
Rodder's Roundtable / Question about my rear end???
December 08, 2005, 09:23:40 PM
Ford didn't feel the need for lock washers, only the copper washers on all the studs followed by the proper nuts.


dave
#20
Rodder's Roundtable / Who are you buying from?
November 30, 2005, 11:45:24 PM
Enco and Rutland for machining supplies, Summit engine parts (excellent Customer service)  NAPA (Best parts house in town), O'Reillys Auto (second best in town) ,
Auto Zone (Last Resort) , Sachse Rod Shop  excellent customer service, Mac's lots of stuff. Newark for electronic stuff.  

I try to use UPS when I have a chioce as the Delivery Man is first rate and will make a second trip the same day if I am not home and a signature is needed.

dave
#21
Rodder's Roundtable / Crate Motor ID
November 13, 2005, 12:51:07 PM
What should I look for on a Chevy crate motor to identify the size and build configuration of the engine? I know there won't be the VIN normally found on the passenger side deck pad.
The engine is in a car so the rear of the engine behind the head might be hard to see.

Thanks

dave
#22
That is very good and well presented.
The plug access is really good.
Does any one know how these work in a 46 - 48 Ford?


dave
#23
I had originally Hijacked River1s post and thought it best to start another.

In my earlier post on Jim's thread (Sorry about that Jim) I had voiced my concern about some "Timken" brand bearings I had purchased for my Ford 9 inch diff.
Enjenjo had responded that I should look for the Timken etching on the race, well there is only the word China on the seals and the only place Timken shows up is on the box. That is what I get for buying something from A _ _ _ _  Zone. NAPA was not able to get the Timken or any other major US name and the counter man said his bearings were probably from Japan so I went to A Zone, I will return the Timken Chinese bearings tomorrow and have NAPA order what they can get and see what shows up.
I really prefer going to the traditional auto parts stores because they know how to leave the computer and go to the catalogs and will try to find any thing I need.
I am tired of the young snots that were born after my newest set of wheels were built try to tell me what I need in auto parts. Most of them can barely read and fewer can make change even with the help of the cash register, Lord only knows what would happen if the power went down.
I will let you know what bearings I end up with.

Sorry about the soap box, but man the inferior parts get old.

dave
#24
Rodder's Roundtable / buyer beware
November 01, 2005, 10:53:31 AM
I was not pleased to find that the "Timkin" rear axel bearings I bought for my Ford 9 inch were made in China.
I know that for the most part bearings made in Japan are of good quality and Japan is at least an ally but I question the quality of most Chinese products and especially a precision product. I am concerned about the metallurgy. I had purposely bought Timkin because of past use and reputation for quality. I have not decided if I will use these bearings or return them. Also the Timkin seals are made in Indonesia.

Oh well.

dave
#25
Rodder's Roundtable / Harbor Freight 20% off
November 01, 2005, 01:04:42 AM
Thanks George, I used the coupon this afternoon and it was worth $80.00 to me.
I replaced my old compressor with a 60 gallon 12.8 cfm @ 90 psi unit that has an AO Smith Centry motor and a 60 gallon Manchester ASME pressure tank. I do not know where the pump is made but the rig cost me $318.38 after the coupon.

Thanks again

dave
#26
Rodder's Roundtable / Is anyone here a meter reader
October 13, 2005, 01:25:33 AM
This site has a free utility called "Convert"  it is super easy to use and it resides on your desktop and will convert almost any measurement used, maybe all measurements used don't know.

I have been using this utility for about 6 years and have had it on several computers.

Cut and paste the link below.

http://www.joshmadison.com/software/convert/


dave
#27
Rodder's Roundtable / Oil leak from fuel pump
August 09, 2005, 11:52:59 PM
I have seen this problem also but the problem was a lack of proper venting of the crankcase. You stated that this only occurred at higher RPMs and that at idle there was no oil.
I do not know what engine you are running but assuming the SBC the oil in the small chamber behind the fuel pump is minimal at best and should drain back to the pan without any problem. I would check your PCV valve and hose and also the vent that allows fresh air to be drawn into the engine. A plugged PCV can also increase oil consumption as well.
The only external clue I have seen from a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm is raw gas squirting from the vent holes. I have also seen gas contamination of the engine oil from a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm. At higher RPMs and especially going up hill the combustion pressures are higher and will put increased loads on the rings and cause more blowby to reach the crank case and could overpower even a properly working PCV. One other point if you are only getting the oil control problem when you are at a relatively open throttle position and most likely low vacuum levels ("going up a long hill") the capacity of the PCV system to evacuate the crankcase will be diminished.
I saw this problem on a customers Ford with a 390 many years ago and the customer had fixed it the only way he knew to, he had put tooth picks in the holes and that had worked for him for over 30,000 miles, but his engine had very high miles.

My $.02

Good luck and keep us informed.

dave
#28
Seadog you need a 1958 or later block. Any small block Chevy with the mounts on the side will fit your needs.

Good luck

dave
#29
Rodder's Roundtable / 4L60E Wiring Diagrams
May 25, 2005, 11:44:46 PM
Tom I have the 2000 C/K Truck service manuals. Send me a PM with contact info and I will try to find what you want and scan it to an email message.

dave
#30
I will try to explain the differences as I understand them;
Imagine this; One place you have double shear on a car is a spring shackle, the bolt runs through one shackle then the spring eye, then through the second shackle. In this example the bolt is in shear on both sides of the spring. This is double shear because the bolt has two interfaces where the is a side load or shear.  Now think about how it would be if instead of a long bolt that went through both shackles and the spring you had only a short bolt that went through one shackle and into the spring eye. This example would be single shear because there is only one interface appling a side load or shear to the bolt. That is why in a lot critical places, and suspension certainly is one of them, it is better to have double shear as there is a sharing of the load and also a redundant  load carring ability should either side fail even at one half the load of the single shear load.

I hope this helps, it is all I could think of.

dave