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The guy I used to work for taught me to do it that way too.
He started the business in 1946. I started working there in high school and went back on and off, between jobs and collage. He probably forgot more that I'll ever know about working on cars. He's gone now but the guy that took my job when I left, about 30 years ago bought the place a few years ago. He still lets me take my cars in to work n them there.
I called him this morning and he has a use distributor I can have to try.

I'll put this one in and if that solves the problem I'll look for a new one at one of the car shows.
Any recommendations, Accel, MSD?

More updates later.

Put in an new MAP sensor and it still runs bad, maybe worse.
Pulled dist. cap back off, got bright light, magnifying glass and found some small cracks in the magnet around the shaft.
Going back home this weekend I'll stop in to the shop and see if I can find another distributor and try it. One with out cracks.

I just installed a VA Gen II unit in my 40 Tudor. Don't have all of the fitting for the A/C yet. Hooked up the heater and had a bad Heat switch. Email tech support and they gave me things to check. I had a bad Heat switch. Contacted sales and they sent one "no questions asked" Very good response from tech support and sales. Haven't had a chance to install switch yet though.

I rechecked all of the grounds, put an extra ground on ECM case to body, still no change in readings when vacuum is applied. The MAP sensor was used one we had in the cabinet at the shop I used to work at. I think I'll pick a new one at NAPA and see if the readings are any different. I need to check on that OTC you sent the link for too. If I where back home I could go into the shop and barrow the one they have. 250 miles away presents problems.

More updates to follow.

Joe

Wayne,

I rechecked the streetrod today with your cheat sheet.
Here's what I got:
Key on, test probes in connector with MAP connected. Meter set to 20v
A to B = 0.56v
A to C = 0.10v
C to B = 0.67v
Vacuum applied "no change"

Key on: A to engine ground = 4.90v
Key off: A to engine ground = 0.000v "varies a little if I tap meter or probe ~ 0.006
A to ECM plug, MAP disconnected ECM plug disconnected,  (ground wire MAP plug end to ECM end of wire = 7.65 ohm. Key off Checking continuity between plug on MAP and ECM. Same reading no matter where I ground second probe from MAP plug to ground.

Wayne,
I'll double check the readings this weekend before I go to the parts store. I checked the grounds the other day, never hearts to check them again.
The shop I used to work in we had several test MAP sensors we used just to test the circuit. Wish I had one now.
I have a home in Columbus Ohio but I'm working a contract job in Lexington, KY making technical manuals for military ground vehicles. I do the exploded views for the manuals.
I've never use Crags list or face book.

I'll let you know what I find out this weekend.

Update on code 33 problem.
Checked distributor magnet for cracks, looks good. New Eccel coil and dis. control module. Put old GM coil back in, not difference. Idles OK, runs fast OK, normal starting out...not so good.
Tested MAP sensor voltage, 5v going in, 5v out on center lead. Went to store and picked up a vacuum pump. Test lead on center lead, 5 volts no matter what pressure is. Pumped down to almost 0 and still had 5v. Going to pick up an Echlin 1 bar MAP sensor this weekend.
This should be fun.
Guy behind counter. What year and model car do you have sir?
Me...1940 Ford.
Him... My computer doesn't go back that far. I didn't know they had MAP sensors back then.
Me... Well the motors out of a 87 Iroc.
Him.. Well that has a MAF sensor
Me... Not any more.

I found 1 guy down here that speaks hotrod but its at AutoZone and I'm not going to put in Taiwan ignition parts.

Supposed to rain for the next week down here so not sure when I'll get to drive it. Not very water tight yet.

Thanks for the tips Wayne and Enjenjo. I'll do some checking this weekend and let you know what I find.
I need to find an older OTC scanner for my OBD I ALDL.

My 40 Tudor with 87 IROC 5.0 TPI would not start the other day. Check.. no spark. 12 V  to coil and distributor control module.  Pulled cap, contacts on pickup coil was green. No resistance on ohm meter. Got new pickup coil, Jeg's Excel module and coil. Set timing @ 6 deg with brown wire disconnected.
It runs but * when accelerating and misses above idle. Code 33 at ALDL. No vacuum leaks to be found.
This has been converted from a MAF to a MAP sensor when I built it over 5 years ago.
Ran fine before pickup coil went out.

Any suggestions?

I have a Tune Port in my 40 Tudor. Starts great, runs great, I get a little over 30 mpg with a T5 and 9" with 350 gear. Stock motor out of an 87 Iroc. I see the TPI intakes at swap meets all of the time. Check with Street and Performance on set up and parts. They'll send you a DVD on setting up fuel injection on any car. They have been install FI in street rod since FI first came out.

Kind of what I thought. Its a rebuilt T-Bird rack not a new one. I'll give the parts guy a call and see if he will exchange it for me. Not looking forward to replacing it, big job with no lift and all fenders on it.

Thanks

Had pressure hose connection reversed at first, pulled hard to right, about ripped my arm off. Pressure and return connection are the same size on my rack, took a 50/50 guess but I lost. Switched the connections and it works as described.

Sorry for the late response, I was out of town and ran out of data time on phone.

Just put in a rebuilt T-Bird power rack, GM pump with remote res. I bought at Good-Guys PPG last year in my 40. Turns hard to right when I'm sitting still. Turns OK left and both ways OK when moving.
Turned steering wheel L/R to centered rack, install rack, set toe in to 1/8, didn't re-set caster or camber.
Any suggestions?

Had a set of Yokohama tires put on my 08 Nitro last fall and now I get a vibration intermittently. I work with an x-mopar engineer and he had the same problem with a set he had. He clams when the belt end line up in sinc you get a vibration until you turn and get the belt end out of sinc. It feels like hot spots in the rotors but I can feel it even without braking but much worse when braking.

Anyone had this problem?

Glad you got it figured out.
I have almost 10K on my TPI 40 Tudor. I need to stop driving it and finish the body and paint it.
It's too much fun to drive though.

Joe