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The bolt itself isn't going to be a problem, but if you can mount the bolts in double shear at both top and bottom, that will settle it.

If in single shear, the bolt needs to be a very snug fit into a suitably long sturdy crush tube, with a big thick retaining washer on the outboard end of the bolt, just in case the rubber bushing splits or ruptures.

If you are still nervous, you can always mount two coil shocks on each side of the car, the same way Jaguar do it.  
The off road guys with very heavy vehicles do this all the time, and it makes for some much nicer load paths, as well as halving the loads on each coil/shock.

I agree,
Using a full linkage suspension with conventional leaf springs will definitely bind and cause some very big problems.

Unless.....you use two spring hangers. The usual one at the back (which is visible), and another one at the front.
That way, the leaf spring can flatten and elongate both ends without binding anything.

The one big advantage of coil springs is that it is much easier to change the spring rate and ride height to get the stance exactly where you want to have it.

Fuel has definitely changed since the good old leaded gas days.

I believe todays fuels are now all formulated to work in high pressure EFI systems where fuel boiling at low pressure and high temperature is no longer considered a problem....

There are probably a few things you could possibly do to improve an older carby vehicle.

An electric pusher pump located at the tank would solve many of these vapor lock problems. Another improvement could be made by fitting a return line to the tank fed from a small bleed orifice right at the needle and seat.

That would keep some fuel circulating around the system, and keep the fuel cool wherever it passed close to any hot spots like the exhaust system.

Also he said they are looking at making a heat pump for cars.
I guess 200 degree coolant is not good enough of a heat source.
Rick

I can see an advantage to having a heat pump in a very cold climate.
Instant full capacity heating and demisting within seconds of starting the engine.
And everything to do it is pretty much already there.

And three times the price...
Sounds like price gouging to me.

Only two possibilities.

1/ The pressure gauge is stuffed.
2/ The engine is stuffed.

Try fitting a second completely independent pressure gauge, and see what that says.

Thanks for the info guys. I didnt think this would be a problem but it pays to check. I will be going cross steer with a cut down rack. In order to keep bump steer in check I will be making the cross shaft from rack to tie rod as close to the same length as the panhard rod as possible. From the looks of things to this point I may be able to duplicate the length AND angle of the panhard rod.

That sounds like an excellent solution.

Agree with Phat...

Attacking it from behind the rear seat is the only way you are going to get in there without doing some serious damage.

First thing is to have a very close look at the boot lock of a similar model, and figure out exactly what bit needs to be sprung, and what you can lever against to do it.

Then a bit of imagination, a homemade tool, a heroic effort, and a LOT of foul language and cussing will usually do the trick.

It needs a big powerful sound system with recorded V8 noises.
Put that big battery to use.....

I suppose the trick here, is to first locate your steering box/half rack wherever it absolutely has to go. There are often really big issues with that...

Then arrange your four bar to minimize bump steer, by making the four bar  lengths the same as the steering push/pull rod length.

Just had a look at the back of my 4x4 4L60e and it definitely has the oil spray hole.

Tony is right, the whole rear housing is fully open to transmission fluid, the oil seal is located in the front of the transfer case.

Should certainly be possible to bolt a stubby housing onto the back of a 4x4 box.

Should be possible, there is auto transmission fluid back there, it is not sealed off from the pan.
If you wanted to pressure lubricate a slip yoke bearing, a bit of fluid could be stolen from the transmission cooler lines to do it. It will drain back easily to the pan no problem.

I have a 4x4 4L60E sitting on my workbench right now with the transfer case off.
Output splines are 27, same as normal 4L60.
4X4 output shaft is  4 5/8" long.

Anyone know how long a normal 4L60 output shaft is ?

All you would need would be a flat plate to bolt onto the back of the transmission with four holes (early 4L60) or six holes (later 4L60), and a big fat tube welded onto it to hold the slip yoke bearing and rear oil seal.

Or maybe a very short rear gearbox extension off some other gearbox  with a simple flat adapter plate may be possible ?

You would also need to fabricate up a suitable road speed sensor.
Theoretically that could be anywhere on the tail shaft, or maybe one of the ABS tone wheels could do double duty for that ??

Seems quite practical to do, just needs a bit of research.

Thanks Tony.
That is hugely helpful.
And a merry Christmas to yourself and your family.

I have always owned stick shift cars, but am now building an A with a 4L65E because lack of room for a clutch pedal and my big feet.

On a bit of a learning curve here with this auto.
Just curious, what sort of max line pressure does the cooler see ?
What sort of flow area (pipe size) do you recommend ?

This seems to be the trend everywhere.

Land close to cities is now becoming far too valuable, and it is just not economic to keep a rusting ancient car body out there occupying space, when it could be crushed for cash.

If you want old, you have to travel way out into the country.

Even out there, when the "old bloke" finally dies, his family will probably bulldoze the old car yard and sell it to a developer.

All very sad...

Another way to do this would be to use a constant velocity (double cardan) joint at the gearbox end, where you cannot really do much about the extreme angularity.
These joints cancel out the torsional velocity fluctuations you get with high angularity single cardan joints.  They also allow higher angles.


Then tilt the diff nose upwards at the back to more or less match the tailshaft angle.
This will give a much smoother tailshaft rotation, without the high speed torsional vibrations high angularity single cardan joints can often produce.