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You're gonna tear it up, just no way around it.  How much ??
What about just a larger dia steering wheel??
Or an early sixties  Ford car with the slave and sensor.  They were leaky, but could be adapted to the F100 pitman.
Or a late 70's to early 80's Toyota pickup.  They look similar to the F100 but I don't recall if it was a power  box or not.  Someone else will chime in with that info.
Your profile does not say where you are. May be a rodder in the area who will help out.   It happens.

Is there a Sanden 510   that pumps a little more volume for max air  Fuzzy memory.

What compressor are you planning to use ?  I've had bad experiences with some GM factory ones. In AZ we need max cool.

Can't find a decent Chevelle site with tech info like this one is for hot rods.
Daily is a big block 66 Chevelle and am trying to get a/c hooked up.  Need a recommendation on an aftermarket compressor (Sanyo or Sanko or something like that ?)  Have the original brackets for the old A6 but I need cold a/c so want an upgrade.
Have been saving an original fan shroud and went to put it on today with a 6 blade fan and the shroud doesn't fit exactly.  Close,  but the mounting holes are 1/2 inch off and it touches the lower pulley.  It's an unmolested original so maybe is for a different year or maybe my rad is from a different year.  I really don't want to cut it up so maybe yall know of a chevelle or GM site with tech info or traders.

I have a 38 ford 1 1/2 ton truck  so you know the front axle is BIG.  Some 25 yrs ago I wanted to knock out those pins and replace them with longer machined stainless ones to attach a sway bar.  I took it in to the tool room at my work as they had a big rosebud tip.   Well to give you a bit of background,  this was in Toronto and the company had about 15 oldtimer toolmakers all born in central and eastern Europe.  These guys all had really thick accents and if you could understand them they were a wealth of knowledge.  They were all true toolmakers, a product of the apprentice program in the old country. (other stories here).  I was all of maybe 27 or 28 years old and so as  I was dragging in this huge axle and bones assy, a crusty old Russian guy, probably mid sixties asked what I was doing.  I said I was hoping they had two torches and two rosebuds and that I wanted to heat up the axle around the pin and then pound it with their biggest sledge while it was hot.  In his broken English he told me I was backwards and to go and get a pail of water.      When I returned he had the axle wishbone right side up sitting on the floor.  He fired up the rosebud to its max and applied all the heat to just the pin.  It took maybe five minutes and the pin was cherry and the axle not.  He shut off the torch and immediately poured the pail of water on it,  then told me to come back in an hour and walked back to what he was doing.    ?  An hour later he was waiting for me with a 5 pound ball peen in his hand.  He put the axle on the floor with the bones pointed up in the air and holding the bones with one hand swung the hammer on the threaded pin end.  The pin skittered 10 feet across the shop.  Same with the other pin.  One blow each.  He explained that getting the pin hotter than the axle and then rapid cooling causes the pin to shrink smaller than it was and also breaks the bond between it and the axle.
I worked there about 5 yrs and those old timers never ceased to surprise me.  They never openly mocked my engineering degree,  but they sure made it clear that I was a novice and they were masters of real world manufacturing.

All the talk about converting to open driveline makes me question some of the old timers teachings.  Now let me qualify this,   some of these old timers are long underground,  but I know that they still poke fun at my hot rod endeavors.
They told me that the hot setup to convert was to get all the parts off of a 42 to 48  or so pickup.  They are already open drive  so a simple conversion.  The trucks were parallel leaf so the entire rear could not be swapped.
These old timers were well up on Lincoln big bendix brakes,  zepher gears,  F100 steering boxes and shock mounts and many other tricks that I didn't see in rod mags till decades later.  They also had the stories about which Canadian made flatheads were the hot setup.
So I know that much of what they taught me is true,  but I have no first hand experience on the truck open drive conversion.  Anyone try it??

I agree with Skip on the current carrying capabilities of the blade type.  The stud is more durable in general........but ......I'm tight for space and will use a relay for any high current chores.    
Am really in a quandry over all this advice.   It's down to two choices. Back under the seat where I originally planned it or pointing  down under the dash just right of the steering column.  Will check out both next week  I hope, and let you know.
Will Knees hiy yhe hang down key?  Will it fall out in the off position

The powder coat is tough and you'll need to sand it well to get a bond and the sanded area will show,  plus the goop plus then you'll need to paint it and it won't match and on and on etc.
I'd take a piece of 3/4  or 1 inch 12 gauge strap and make a tab that comes off one or the top pumpkin bolts to hold the brake line in the middle.  Seems that I've seen some 9 inchers with that.

That was the origina; plan, to put all the switches under the seat.  Had second thoughts when I thought about inserting the key in the dark in a hurry.  Where is your key switch under the seat and on the left or right ?

Yes I'm familiar with Henry's push button start,  actually like that idea,  but want the minimum switches for the cleanest cockpit.

OK  the choice is between Sikaflex and the windshield urethane. Price is about the same even with the windshield guy service call but with him there will be an extra set of hands to set the dash into the wet goop.  I've just sprayed the firewall / cowl area with POR 15 after welding up the rust holes so I will be bonding to that.  Should it be scuffed ?   It is fresh paint,  but not level or smooth.  There will be some gaps,  maybe 1/8  or even 3/16 of an inch   so this makes me think the windshield urethane would be best.
I cannot spot weld it in place as then the rust will just eat it again.  I don't have a spot welder anyway.  The ends will be welded in as there is access on both sides to repaint the burnt areas.  Where the dash joins the cowl allows no access to repaint or treat after the weld burn.
Could Skip weigh in again??

I will stop by the VW bug house to see that switch and post detail.

The windshield urethane sounds like the easiest way to go and a lot less mess.  Will post when I get it done , a week or two.
The devcon also appears that it will work, though Skip's comment is hard to doubt.  I was asking for experience and he speaks with conviction.

The Ford pickup switch seems ok,  still a little big in dia,  maybe 1 1/4 inch dia?  If that's the smallest then I'll stop by the Ford dealer and see how much they love them.   the boat ones were smaller in dia but sure seemed cheap quality........
I did consider putting the ignition on the left side of the dash as on C9's  32,  but on the 34 the dash is not flat there,  has a reveal  and the appearance might be so so with a switch on the raised reveal.
Any other comments?

34 Ford coupe does not leave too many options on where to put the ignition switch.  I had the wiring partially done with the switch under the drivers seat facing forward,  but now am having second thoughts.  It may be too awkward there and so have figured how to mount a switch partially sideways on top of the steering column just back of the dash.  Clear as mud???   Well it is very close to Henry's original location,  but without the column lock.   I think this will be ok,  but brings up another question.   What switch / lock to use.  Had a mid sixties chevelle switch to use,  but it is waaaayyyy  too big and bulky.   Looked a few marine boat types but they seemed too cheap.  Any advice???    Saw Skip on here earlier and figured he has been down this road.  What yall use for an aftermarket ignition switch / key??

Thanks Bob.
Yes I clearly remember those trees and boulders that jump up out of the snow and how easily those cowls break.  Bombardier sure loves them.
But really I'm looking for feedback on sheet metal to sheet metal bonding using a structural adhesive such as epoxy or polyurethane.
I will check their website for this info,  but need input from someone who has done this.